[spencer151]

Happy New Year to you All! Need help. I am swapping a good fuse box with my broken and corroded one. So some of my smaller in size wires (red/green, black/green) are either larger looking wire or they are the right colors but a hash instead of a line. Can they still be be spliced together and function properly and safely? This box was disposed to be exact match so since I am no electrician I want to be safe. Also a couple of the wires in my original fuse box are in a plastic insert of sorts and the insert is in the fuse box instead of just the wires. Can I simply remove the insert from box and place in the new box? See photos.

 

[klh95bronco]

So some of my smaller in size wires (red/green, black/green) are either larger looking wire or they are the right colors but a hash instead of a line. Can they still be be spliced together and function properly and safely?

The color of the wiring has no effect to the circuit. What does matter is the gauge of the wires to be joined. You can always add a larger wire to replace a segment in a circuit but you can't go smaller in gauge and keep the same amount of current in it.

If at all possible keep the wires the same color just so troubleshooting in the future will be easier by following a wiring schematic. Changing the colors of the wires will make it a nightmare for troubleshooting.

The metal portions of the connectors can easily be removed from a broken fuse block and be placed in the new fuse block. If the metal connectors are still good I would swap them over instead of splicing. If they must be replaced, I would suggest soldering the new connections and using heat shrink tubing.

 

[spencer151]

Hello and thank you for the reply and valuable information.

The color of the wiring has no effect to the circuit. What does matter is the gauge of the wires to be joined. You can always add a larger wire to replace a segment in a circuit but you can't go smaller in gauge and keep the same amount of current in it.

If at all possible keep the wires the same color just so troubleshooting in the future will be easier by following a wiring schematic. Changing the colors of the wires will make it a nightmare for troubleshooting.

The metal portions of the connectors can easily be removed from a broken fuse block and be placed in the new fuse block. If the metal connectors are still good I would swap them over instead of splicing. If they must be replaced, I would suggest soldering the new connections and using heat shrink tubing.

Hello and thank you for the valuable information. I hope I haven't been doing this whole thing wrong!!! I have actually been cutting one wire at a time and connecting and heat shrinking it to the same color wire on the new fuse box. If wire color doesn't matter does that mean I am connecting wires together that should not be connected???

Next, when you say can add a larger wire to "replace a segment " but not smaller guage do you mean this: If the original wire from fuse box is small in size it can be connected to a larger in size wire and ran to the new fuse box. It can not be connected to a wire smaller than the original wire. Or is this all about wire guage and I need to study that before going any further. I was almost done with this swap but I am a little worried that I have been doing it wrong and don't want to have an electrical fire and destroy everything.

 

[klh95bronco]

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Next, when you say can add a larger wire to "replace a segment " but not smaller guage do you mean this: If the original wire from fuse box is small in size it can be connected to a larger in size wire and ran to the new fuse box. It can not be connected to a wire smaller than the original wire.

This is correct. The wire size determines the amount of electrical load that can be carried by it. Smaller wires carry small loads and large wires carry large load. A small load can still go through a large wire, but a large load going through a small wires creates a lot of heat and this melts wires causing fires.

If wire color doesn't matter does that mean I am connecting wires together that should not be connected???

The most important thing when wiring a fuse box is the location of each wire. What I mean is if you have two identical fuse boxes and you are moving wires from one box to the other, is you must move them into the same "slot" on the new box, even if the wire color is different. For the proper fuses to match up the location from one box to the next one is most important.

Just make sure you know what circuit your are moving over and the factory fuse rating. In the end the color of the wire doesn't matter, just the proper fuse rating and this is generally noted on the fuse box panel, like headlight fuse - 30 amps. Make sure when you move them over you have it going to a 30 amp fuse slot.

 

[spencer151]

[


This is correct. The wire size determines the amount of electrical load that can be carried by it. Smaller wires carry small loads and large wires carry large load. A small load can still go through a large wire, but a large load going through a small wires creates a lot of heat and this melts wires causing fires.



The most important thing when wiring a fuse box is the location of each wire. What I mean is if you have two identical fuse boxes and you are moving wires from one box to the other, is you must move them into the same "slot" on the new box, even if the wire color is different. For the proper fuses to match up the location from one box to the next one is most important.

Just make sure you know what circuit your are moving over and the factory fuse rating. In the end the color of the wire doesn't matter, just the proper fuse rating and this is generally noted on the fuse box panel, like headlight fuse - 30 amps. Make sure when you move them over you have it going to a 30 amp fuse slot.

okay. You are a super star truly!! So, I will take the original fuse box out. I will then check to ensure the locations of each wire on the replacement box is in the same slot as on the original. I will then remove all of my fuses from the original box into the same slots on the new box. I've got it. I do have one larger black wire that was not on the new box. I can simply remove it and place it in the same slot on the new box according to your excellent instructions. I really appreciate all of your help. This job has scared me greatly because getting it wrong could be a catastrophe!!! I will let you know how it all works out. If I have done anything wrong will I know immediately after reconnecting power and trying everything or will it happen down the road somewhere?

 

[klh95bronco]

If I have done anything wrong will I know immediately after reconnecting power and trying everything or will it happen down the road somewhere?

It really depends on what the screw up might be. Each fuse controls a circuit. If that circuit is rarely used, then you won't know there is a mistake until you try using that circuit.

What you can do once you get finished is to read all of the items listed on the fuse box cover panel and purposely turn on that circuit to see if it is working properly. If not, then you know you have a problem. If it works then you know it is connected. Then all you need to ensure is are are wire gages correct.

On thing you must ensure before putting the power to the fuse box is are all wires properly insulated. Exposed wires will cause a fire really fast.

 

[spencer151]

It really depends on what the screw up might be. Each fuse controls a circuit. If that circuit is rarely used, then you won't know there is a mistake until you try using that circuit.

What you can do once you get finished is to read all of the items listed on the fuse box cover panel and purposely turn on that circuit to see if it is working properly. If not, then you know you have a problem. If it works then you know it is connected. Then all you need to ensure is are are wire gages correct.

On thing you must ensure before putting the power to the fuse box is are all wires properly insulated. Exposed wires will cause a fire really fast.

So I am about done. I have ensured all wires are in same location on new box. I have one problem I hope you can assist me with or maybe someone else. I have two three wires left to connect at the hazard fuse location top of fuse box. I only have two wires. I don't remember how this was wired so now I'm screwed. I attached photos of the wires on new box and a photo of the old box and the three wires. I have only connected the green wire. The white red wires have me stomped. I can't locate a photo for reference and my wiring schematic is not helping. Assist if you. Can. Thanks again

 

[klh95bronco]

I have two three wires left to connect at the hazard fuse location top of fuse box. I only have two wires.

Sorry friend, I don't understand what you are trying to say here, two three wires?

The pictures also don't convey much to me.

Post pictures of the tops of both fuse boxes. If they were identical there shouldn't be any issue at all.

If the wires you have aren't listed on the wiring schematic for your truck, they may be something a previous owner added in there. It is very common for backyard mechanics to "stick" a circuit into the fuse box to piggyback with another circuit.

It could also be helpful to do a recon mission at your local pick ur part junkyard and see what a different vehicle has coming out of its fuse box. I am assuming by the info under your avatar you are working on an 82 Bronco? If so any 80-86 F-150 or Bronco should have the same fuse box. If you can find one to compare to it could answer a lot of your questions.

 

[spencer151]

Sorry friend, I don't understand what you are trying to say here, two three wires?

The pictures also don't convey much to me.

Post pictures of the tops of both fuse boxes. If they were identical there shouldn't be any issue at all.

If the wires you have aren't listed on the wiring schematic for your truck, they may be something a previous owner added in there. It is very common for backyard mechanics to "stick" a circuit into the fuse box to piggyback with another circuit.

It could also be helpful to do a recon mission at your local pick ur part junkyard and see what a different vehicle has coming out of its fuse box. I am assuming by the info under your avatar you are working on an 82 Bronco? If so any 80-86 F-150 or Bronco should have the same fuse box. If you can find one to compare to it could answer a lot of your questions.

Ok so I have 3 wires at top of original box, red/white hash, white/red hash and green/red hash. All hazard the signal wires. On new box same location I have green/red hash, red/white and white/red. No hashes like the original box. Green/red hash is connected. That leaves me with red/white hash and white/red hash from original to be connected. Except on new box same terminals I have red/white strip and white/red strip. There is only a red/white hash left not connected. I am wondering if all three red/white wires go together? In wiring diagram it shows white/red and red/white as somehow connected. u

 

[spencer151]

Sorry friend, I don't understand what you are trying to say here, two three wires?

The pictures also don't convey much to me.

Post pictures of the tops of both fuse boxes. If they were identical there shouldn't be any issue at all.

If the wires you have aren't listed on the wiring schematic for your truck, they may be something a previous owner added in there. It is very common for backyard mechanics to "stick" a circuit into the fuse box to piggyback with another circuit.

It could also be helpful to do a recon mission at your local pick ur part junkyard and see what a different vehicle has coming out of its fuse box. I am assuming by the info under your avatar you are working on an 82 Bronco? If so any 80-86 F-150 or Bronco should have the same fuse box. If you can find one to compare to it could answer a lot of your questions.

Hello, I didn't here back after my last reply to you. I think I did it wrong. Anyway, I wanted to update you after all of the help you gave me. I have the new fuse box connected. I am still trying to figure out about the wire that is no connected currently. However, I did start the truck and tested everything. So far most things are working as they should. No blown fuses or fires have happened!!! Strangely, my headlight on buzzer sounded when I turned the headlights on. Don't know what I did wrong there. My clock is not working. I'll have to figure out what I did wrong. I know you said wire color doesn't matter and just to connect the wires in the same location. Please verify that is correct. It scares me a bit connecting wire colors that don't match. Other than that, I am so very happy and thankful for all of the patience you showed and the super great guidance. Couldn't have done it without you. BIG BIG THANKS TO YOU!!!

 

[klh95bronco]

Different models of vehicles may have the same fuse box and the fuse box cane be labeled the same way. However, the wiring harnesses may be different colors based on different accessories in that vehicle. The color of the wires not matching up statement I made was because of this. Your truck may have a standard stereo system where as the truck that you got the fuse box from may have had a premium sound system and included wires in it for a amplifier. Because of this the color codes may not match up. I believe diesel vehicles have a different wiring harness also. Wire color is not that important.

You need to make sure of each wire coming out of your truck goes to the correct slot on the fuse box. For example, the wire that you know for a fact is coming from your cigarette lighter circuit is connected to the fuse slot labeled as "Cigarette lighter" on your fuse box. Even if the wire colors don't match.
The circuit going to the headlight circuit must be connected to the "headlights" circuit on the fuse box, regardless of wire colors.

I guess the first thing I should have had you do is this. Before disconnecting anything on your original fuse box is to photograph it for later reference. Then compare the new fuse box with the original one. First, is the fuse box the same shape and dimensions as the original. Second, do all of the slots in your original fuse box that have circuits in them ( the slots that have the metal connectors in them ) match up with the replacement fuse box. Sometimes the plastic housing will be the same but the circuits being used may not be the same. If all of the same slots in the fuse boxes are being used on both fuse boxes, then you can compare wire colors to see if they are the same colors. So, for example, if both fuse boxes have a circuit going to the stereo and both wires coming out of each fuse box are a blue wire with a white stripe, then you would connect the same color wires when you swapped them over. But if the colors were different between the fuse boxes, then you would make sure the wire coming from your truck goes to the new fuse box connector that is labeled "Radio". The color wouldn't matter in this case, just the wire gauge.

As far as your hazard light issue, I cant figure that one out. I probably would need to see it in person to make any conclusions on that one.

 

[BigBlue 94]

How many wires dont match color? Most of the bullnose have the same base harnesses as electrical options were very limited.

What year is the new panel from?

I can get pics of my 85

 

[spencer151]

Hello to you both and thank you so much for all the help and advice and patience. I think I have everything correct. My fuse box shape is the same and it appears all of the fuse locations were a match also. I have not connected it back to the firewall yet as I want to re-check all a couple more times before mounting. If you could send me pics of your 85 Big Blue that would be great. Klh I definately followed your advice on the match up. It made things a lot easier. All of you guys are great? Can't seem to get that clock working. Its getting power and good ground but still a no go. Tried to work a couple of times but now nothing. I thought the new box would help but so far not. Its amazing how originally all those wires are smashed down so well that the fuse box easily mounts to the firewall!!! Thanks again you guys.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Tried to pull mine out, but it was stuck. I did get a pic of the front of the fuse box though. Never mind the mess, I have 9 aftermarket gauges wired up and have the column pulled out for a firewall stiffening brace

Fuse placement:
My bronco is a base model, so no AC or power windows or locks. Manual trans. EEC is no longer running anything. Im running an HEI ignition. It was a digital points ignition when i got it. I havent removed any fuses, so this is how it was when on the pertronix points ignition.

 

[spencer151]

Thanks for the pic! Two questions. Before new fuse box my radio would turn on with ignition on or in acc. It would remember station setting, etc. Now I have the wire running to the radio fuse. No longer remembers my settings. How is your radio wired. Also, looks like you have an interesting kick panel in that photo.

 

[BigBlue 94]

You have the hot wire (yellow?) for the radio hooked to an ACC slot that is only hot with key input. You need that one hooked to an always hot, and then the 'remote turn on' (orange?) hooked to the keyed input.

Are you referring to the slider vent on the left? It came on non-ac trucks and pulls air from the vents at the back of the hood. They move as much air as the wing windows! They are on both sides. You can add them by removing your panels and removing a block off plate.

 

[spencer151]

You have the hot wire (yellow?) for the radio hooked to an ACC slot that is only hot with key input. You need that one hooked to an always hot, and then the 'remote turn on' (orange?) hooked to the keyed input.

Are you referring to the slider vent on the left? It came on non-ac trucks and pulls air from the vents at the back of the hood. They move as much air as the wing windows! They are on both sides. You can add them by removing your panels and removing a block off plate.

Thanks Blue!

 

[spencer151]

You have the hot wire (yellow?) for the radio hooked to an ACC slot that is only hot with key input. You need that one hooked to an always hot, and then the 'remote turn on' (orange?) hooked to the keyed input.

Are you referring to the slider vent on the left? It came on non-ac trucks and pulls air from the vents at the back of the hood. They move as much air as the wing windows! They are on both sides. You can add them by removing your panels and removing a block off plate.

Update: got the radio wired correctly as per your instructions. I ran the hot to the starter solenoid under hood. It appears that is exactly how the previous owner had it. Seen that cut wire hanging from under the glove box a million times and never could figure out what it was for. Now all works as it should. Thanks so much Blue!! Might as well as this while I got you. I have to replace my exhaust pipe. So, phoned a muffler shop yesterday to get an estimate. He wouldn't give one (strange) but did mention a cat converter. I told him I didn't think I had one on the truck. He was super young sounding and said if it's that old it had one and blah, blah blah. I've been researching whether 82 with 302 came with a cat or not. It seems maybe it did or maybe it didn't. Do you by chance know the answer to that. I hope I still have the emissions decal on the truck. I haven't seen it on the hood where google said it should be.

 

[spencer151]

Different models of vehicles may have the same fuse box and the fuse box cane be labeled the same way. However, the wiring harnesses may be different colors based on different accessories in that vehicle. The color of the wires not matching up statement I made was because of this. Your truck may have a standard stereo system where as the truck that you got the fuse box from may have had a premium sound system and included wires in it for a amplifier. Because of this the color codes may not match up. I believe diesel vehicles have a different wiring harness also. Wire color is not that important.

You need to make sure of each wire coming out of your truck goes to the correct slot on the fuse box. For example, the wire that you know for a fact is coming from your cigarette lighter circuit is connected to the fuse slot labeled as "Cigarette lighter" on your fuse box. Even if the wire colors don't match.
The circuit going to the headlight circuit must be connected to the "headlights" circuit on the fuse box, regardless of wire colors.

I guess the first thing I should have had you do is this. Before disconnecting anything on your original fuse box is to photograph it for later reference. Then compare the new fuse box with the original one. First, is the fuse box the same shape and dimensions as the original. Second, do all of the slots in your original fuse box that have circuits in them ( the slots that have the metal connectors in them ) match up with the replacement fuse box. Sometimes the plastic housing will be the same but the circuits being used may not be the same. If all of the same slots in the fuse boxes are being used on both fuse boxes, then you can compare wire colors to see if they are the same colors. So, for example, if both fuse boxes have a circuit going to the stereo and both wires coming out of each fuse box are a blue wire with a white stripe, then you would connect the same color wires when you swapped them over. But if the colors were different between the fuse boxes, then you would make sure the wire coming from your truck goes to the new fuse box connector that is labeled "Radio". The color wouldn't matter in this case, just the wire gauge.

As far as your hazard light issue, I cant figure that one out. I probably would need to see it in person to make any conclusions on that one.

Thanks again Klh! Your help with the box replacement was super amazing. Couldn't have done it without ya!

 

[BigBlue 94]

Emissions sticker should be on the radiator support.

Pretty much everything after 78 had a cat at one point in time.

I can only recommend one cat, the magnaflow spun metallicat. Thats what I put on my 85 for fume mitigation. It is not a Cali legal cat, but we dont have testing here. It was purely for my comfort. And it works great.