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Diesel Gynachologist
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So after having next to no place to install these things which is part of the reason I have never had any. I can not run the pillar due to the roll cage. I also thought about mounting them to the cage, well where would I run the wires and there would have to be some kinda box to house them. then there is no clear view place to put them so they don't look tacky. i came up with this idea. Its not the best place in the world but it should work and look somewhat clean. I can't see the numbers perfectly but i will be able to tell where the needle is and if need take a quick glance to see them. If it doesn't work out I will just make it a switch panel or buy a whole new lower trim panel from a yard to replace it.

Here are some progress pictures.


i had a small sheet of plastic laying around thats textured on one side so it sorta matches the interior piece. First I took an old soldering iron and melted the joints to hold it in place. Basically a real crude plastic weld(yes there is such a thing) Having the real thing would have been baddass and alot cleaner then the next pic......


yes sorta hack and below my standards but what the hell you wont see it on the back side of the panel anyway.


gauges go in tomorrow
 
G

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Scott was telling me if you replace the stock sending unit on the intake for water temp it may have the effect on the ECM as running cold all the time.

Also, lets see how you do the oil pressure unit. :beer
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
there is two, one for the processor and one for the gauge. i haven't figured out what I am doing for that yet. my main concern is getting the trans temp on working. thats the most important anyway. Not sure if I want an oil gauge not really a need for it. guess it would be nice to see if your straight up and down and run the engine out of oil from the incline. All i have are these two so I will go from there.
 

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Works for me.



But mine are on a steel panel spray-painted black (to match my bezel) and it's screwed to the DASH structure so I can still remove the bezel without fighting any extra wires/tubes/etc. Mine is fairly easy to see while driving.



BTW
Wouldn't the Tech Writeups forum be better for this? ;)
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Wouldn't the Tech Writeups forum be better for this? ;)
Its going there now. I wanted to get it together first before I moved it......
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So I found a easy way to get the temp sender in for the coolant temp.

Picked these up at Ace hardware.


Then build this contraption. the sensor on the right is the factory ECT sensor for the processor. the sensor on top is for the autometer which an adapter from 1/8 to 3/8/ it comes in the gauge kit.


you will need to remove the #5 fuel injector since you cant spin the t-fitting around without it hitting. Its simple just remove the 2 8mm bolts hold on the fuel rail. pop it and and pop the fuel injector out. install the fitting then reinstall. don't forget to lube up the o-rings on the injector. also the top o-ring likes to stay in the rail so be careful not to lose it.



Done, going for a road test in a bit
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
so anyone know if moving that sensor will cause an issue? I drove it tonight maybe 6-7miles but only saw less than 150*. my dash guage also seemed way low. Its like it never got hot. I had the heat on so Im sure that took a little away from engine heat. It is also way cold out 45*maybe. Im not sure if its the weather or and incorrect guage reading.
 

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so anyone know if moving that sensor will cause an issue? I drove it tonight maybe 6-7miles but only saw less than 150*. my dash gauge also seemed way low. Its like it never got hot. I had the heat on so Im sure that took a little away from engine heat. It is also way cold out 45*maybe. Im not sure if its the weather or and incorrect guage reading.
I cant see it causing a problem......all you did was put a T in.....so now both sensors are getting the coolant temp from the same place.

Oh and Dustin.....I was going to suggest you mount your gauges to your roll bar at the a pillar by just drilling a small hole and fishing the wires through. It would work well if you use all elect gauges, but I aint too sure how you would snake conduit for a oil pres gauge or something up the inside of the roll bar and out for the gauge(s). Your location looks fine though....but I still would have liked to see what they would have looked like my way though.
 

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I was going to say I'd expect both gauges to be INaccurate with that arrangement. They're too far from the coolant flow, and brass will lose heat VERY quickly between the hot coolant & the 2 sensors. You might see a SLIGHT improvement if you wrap your "contraption" in some good, plastic-coated (windbreaker) insulation, but it would be better to get both senders IN the coolant flow at the top of the engine.
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I cant see it causing a problem......all you did was put a T in.....so now both sensors are getting the coolant temp from the same place.

Oh and Dustin.....I was going to suggest you mount your gauges to your roll bar at the a pillar by just drilling a small hole and fishing the wires through. It would work well if you use all elect gauges, but I aint too sure how you would snake conduit for a oil pres gauge or something up the inside of the roll bar and out for the gauge(s). Your location looks fine though....but I still would have liked to see what they would have looked like my way though.
It will reduce my line of sight either more with them mounted on the cage that way. plus how would you build a housing to hold them. It would look very tacky just sticking them up there.

I was going to say I'd expect both gauges to be INaccurate with that arrangement. They're too far from the coolant flow, and brass will lose heat VERY quickly between the hot coolant & the 2 sensors. You might see a SLIGHT improvement if you wrap your "contraption" in some good, plastic-coated (windbreaker) insulation, but it would be better to get both senders IN the coolant flow at the top of the engine.
Thats my line of thinking exactly. My first thoughts where being out of the coolant flow is whats doing it. I never thought about the brass. Its not accurate as it should have at least hit operating temp last night. I wish I could just run the sensor there, Its an awesome spot without looking all hacked in.

so how about this idea and it may sound retarded. What about using one sensor for both wires? hooking both up to the factory sensor or the auto meter sensor? anyone know the resistance of either? my voltmeter is sitting at work in my box.
 

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I believe I read before that wouldn't work Dustin.

For my autometer mechanical, what I did was split the heater hose as it ran out of the thermostat housing and brought it up over to where my booster/MC is, and bought a brass T, and two nipples all 1/2". I also used a short 1" threaded piece, and another double female on top so that the autometer sender didn't stick down into the T and impede and coolant flow. So without a picture or a quick photochop, it looks like this:

edit: damn forum spacing... imagine it as if the extension-adapter and all that was spaced over to be directly under the T

=T= - T with two 5
| - 1" extension
0 - 1/2" female adapter
( ) - Autometer sender
\ - mechanical hose coming out of the sender

I had to mount it up over there because the mechanical sender line can't be extended, and I wanted the gauge up on my A pillar. The tube on it was only like 4 feet or something, so I couldn't go far with it. Since you're putting yours down there, you could probably get away with doing it closer to the engine.

This way, I'd end up with good flow going across the sender as it's coming out of the block... It's a little bit up out of the direct flow of the coolant, only by a little, but I didn't want to impede any flow on it, and the coolant around the sender will warm up pretty much almost as fast as the stuff flowing by it. It will be a slight delay, but not horribly so.
 

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Dustin
If you're using the same sensor, I don't see much point to having 2 gauges.

I'd drill a new hole in the intake, tap it for the new sensor, & install it separately. There has to be a spot you can stash it where it'll have enough aluminum to get a good bite without cracking the intake, & where it won't look like a hack job. Maybe an unused boss cast into the intake somewhere? Or maybe weld some new aluminum over a coolant passage & then drill/tap that?

B4L
The tip of the sensor wouldn't be a significant restriction, and it would give you even MORE accurate readings to have it down in the flow. Actually, it's probably good to add some restriction to the flow coming from the WP to the heater core. In some applications, Ford recommends it to prevent them from exploding during cold-weather high-speed runs.
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I don't want to have a inop dash gauge. I would like to have all those working as well. I don't have the time or desire to remove the intake just to drill and tap although that would be the cleanest way to do it.

I was under the assumption that sensor was the one the processor uses for ECT? I have seem to misplaced my EVTM and service manual for my bronco so I cant look it up. but with it effecting gauge reading like it did its proving different.

worst comes to worse I will scrap the gauge all together. I'm mainly worried about tans temp anyway. kinda sucks since its already there.
 

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I made the dash gauge dead in mine, I thought it would bother me at first but after doing it and actually knowing what the engine temp is helped me to get over having a dead gauge.

Accually I have 2 dead gauges. Water and Oil pressure..

I know you can ground the oil pressure gauge and make it read, can you do the same with the water temp?
 

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Diesel Gynachologist
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well the factory sensor in that location directly controls the factory gauge. it wont work on the aftermarket gauge and having both hooked up isn't going to work due to differences in gauges. the factory is dumb, and very vary general. Its not like a oil pressure gauge however which is either on or off. It does have some range to it. I think grounding it would drive it all the way to the hot position but not sure. either way I dont have enough time today to mess with it. I just unhooked it.
 

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I've often wondered about those T fittings, because when you do that, there's likely NO coolant in them, just air. Think about it, why would the coolant ever bother to flow through there?

Dry sensors don't work right.
 

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I've often wondered about those T fittings, because when you do that, there's likely NO coolant in them, just air. Think about it, why would the coolant ever bother to flow through there?

Dry sensors don't work right.
Agreed, I was kinda wary when I started planning out how to do it about getting proper flow across it, and not having air trapped up in it. At least with how I was planning it out, I could pinch off the hose, and fill it up completely with coolant, tighten it down and be sure that there was no air in there.

Steve83, you don't think it would be a big deal? I'm not entirely sure the flow track of the coolant through the engine, so I didn't know how much of an effect it would have on it, but the autometer probe pretty much sticks ALL the way down into the bottom of the brass T. Soon as I can, I'll snap a picture of it... just when I looked at it, it really looked like it would impede a LOT of flow through it.
 

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I put mine on top of the thermostat housing thinking that it will read what I need to see on the gauge. I guess, when the thermostat opens, Ill be reading the temp as it comes out of the radiator.

I have to move mine where the stock sensor is. I will get rid of the stock sensor and ground single wire going to it. Only simple way I see of doing this.

 

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Dustin
The ECT is for the EEC, and it's in the tube coming out of the intake going to the heater core. It has 2 wires. The one in the intake with only a R/Wh wire is the temp gauge sender. They're totally independent circuits.

If you want to use a dry sender, drill & tap the head for a factory CHT & use a '00-up factory gauge body to read it.

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Note: the voltage jump shown in that graph occurs only INside the EEC. The sensor's output is actually a smooth curve.

B4L


BBXLT
The factory temp gauge is always a true gauge & really works. It's just not calibrated enough to have numbers printed on it. I've posted photos & instructions on making the oil pressure gauge really work.
 

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I cant see it causing a problem......all you did was put a T in.....so now both sensors are getting the coolant temp from the same place.
Not to beat a dead horse here, but a temperature sensor probe needs to be in the location that you want to measure the temperature. Your coolant will deadhead in this T-fitting as it has no means to flow through and your probe will only be measuring the temperature of this coolant heated by some small conduction and turbulent flow.

You can tee a pressure sensor because you don't care about the flow-rate (has to be in the path), temperature (again in the path), just the pressure which isn't affected by the flow. You can have pressure without any flow at all.

For Dustin, here is where you ECT is located for reference:
 
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