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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just sourced a 94-96 gauge cluster on this board:rockon and i swaped it into the truck this morning. The tach worked fine but i am very worried about the gas gauge. The truck is full, like as full as possible, and its not currently my DD. When i hooked up the new gauges, the gas went high, very high, way past full, i dont remember the old gauges doing that. I was thinking about driving it to see if it drops, any tips? also, the 4x4 low light doesnt work, i switched the bulb....but it still wont work. everything else works fine and im very happy with it. Any ideas you guys have to get the fuel gauge and 4x4 low light to work would rock, thanks.
 

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You can go under the truck, find the Y/Wh wire at the tank, & short it to ground. (You don't have to disconnect anything.) When you turn the key to RUN, the gas needle should go to E.

For the 4L light, follow your owner's manual or the instructions on the visor to make sure you're actually in 4L. Do you have a manual t-case, or ESOF (pushbutton)? If the dash light is off but the button light is on, the problem is between them. If neither is on, the problem is either the ESOF module, the t-case switch, or the wiring.

 

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Hey Steve - while on the subject of the 92-96 gauge clusters, I'm in the middle of going through my 94 XLT and when I removed the gauge cluster housing, I saw a bright orange sticker on the gauge cluster.

I then also read in my Ford shop manual about removing those gauge clusters. It states that when those clusters are removed, they are not to be "laid face down", as some sort of fluid can leak from the individual gauge components, thus making them either inoperative or "flutter" when in use...

Have you heard of this - is it really that detrimental if the cluster is laid down, gauges facing floor?

Just wondering, because I want to put all new bulbs in my cluster since I have everything apart, but have not removed the actual cluster yet after reading about the handling of the unit.

?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
i have a manual t-case shifter. The reason i think the problem is with the 'new' gauge cluster is because the old gauges, the 4LO light works. I double checked too. I will check get around to grounding that wire this weekend. If it goes to E, that means it working?
 

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If you went from a non-tach to having a tach, the pinout changes on the cluster far as the fuel gauge is concerned. if this is the case, move the yel-wht wire (fuel sending unit) from pin b6 to pin a5. Dbl check this cause i assume no responsibility for toasting your panel :thumbup
 

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Cobra Jet said:
...they are not to be "laid face down", as some sort of fluid can leak...
I read that too, years ago. So I went out to my junkpile...uuh, garage... and turned 2 clusters face-up that had been face-down for several months. Both worked fine and showed no sign of leakage. Now, I always store them face-up, but I've never seen one that leaked.
96broncoman said:
If it goes to E, that means it working?
It means the gauge & wiring are good, but the in-tank level sender isn't.
wakeav8b said:
...move the yel-wht wire (fuel sending unit) from pin b6 to pin a5. Dbl check this...
The wiring harness is built with the fuel level wire already going to both connectors.
 

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Steve83 said:
I read that too, years ago. So I went out to my junkpile...uuh, garage... and turned 2 clusters face-up that had been face-down for several months. Both worked fine and showed no sign of leakage. Now, I always store them face-up, but I've never seen one that leaked.It means the gauge & wiring are good, but the in-tank level sender isn't.

i laid my coolant/OP cluster face down and it leaked that bullshit oil stuff all over the gauge face. and yes, my oil pressure gauge does flutter now and then. but it's only one letter. from "R" to "M".
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
okay, i went out this morning and grounded the yellow/white wire. The gauge went below the 'empty' mark the same distance it goes above the 'full' mark, and the tank was full when i changed the gauges, i thought there may not be any problem. I also tried to start the truck with the sensor unplugged and then it went WAY past full, like all the way down. In my original post, when i said "way past full" i meant like 1/4 inch. this was like an entire inch. so now i am guessing that it just has a full tank and its reading it so, just full on this gauge looks like more than full on my other gauge. I am going to drive the truck to work today, to see if the gas goes down some, and i will post back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Update

ok, i drove the truck and everything seemed to work fine on the road but the gas gauge still puzzles me. It did go a lil lower, but i noticed when i accelerated, it seemed to go back higher. i also noticed that its lowest points would be when i hit the brakes. It eventually went as low as the lowest part of the 'full' mark, which moved the needle about 1/4 of an inch in the 'empty' direction. When i went to park the truck, it seemed to want to climb back up. does any one know what may be causing this now?
also, no update on the 4LO light, havent really worked on it.
 

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96broncoman said:
ok, i drove the truck and everything seemed to work fine on the road but the gas gauge still puzzles me. It did go a lil lower, but i noticed when i accelerated, it seemed to go back higher. i also noticed that its lowest points would be when i hit the brakes. It eventually went as low as the lowest part of the 'full' mark, which moved the needle about 1/4 of an inch in the 'empty' direction. When i went to park the truck, it seemed to want to climb back up. does any one know what may be causing this now?
Broken baffles in the fuel tank that allow the fuel slosh to the front and back under acceleration/decceleration could cause this. If that is the case, the baffles moving around in the tank could eventually take out the sending unit.
 

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I don't think you can re-attach the baffles but someone more knowledgable will chime in. The other thing to consider is whether or not the baffle could take out the pump. It could move around in there for weeks or years without causing a problem at all. I would think that you could slosh the tank around a bit and hear the baffle slide across the bottom of the tank if this is the situation.
 

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have you tried taking the gas/volt gauge from you old cluster and putting it in the new one? they pop out in sections on my 96 i just changed the oil/temp on mine that way may the new gas is just bad?
 
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