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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am about to get some 4.56 gears installed on my 93 w/ a 5.0, I have stock 3.55 gears on both the Dana 44 and the 8.8 rear, my question is what gear oil is recommended? 85W-90, 80W-90, or 75W-90? I don't want to put in new gears and something happen to them a few months down the road and I have to start all over again.:whiteflag

Thanks,
George
 

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Convicted Drunk Dialer
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Just run 75W90. If youre having a shop do it for you, I'm sure they'll have it. At least, I hope you dont have it done, drive home, and THEN fill them up. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Just run 75W90. If youre having a shop do it for you, I'm sure they'll have it. At least, I hope you dont have it done, drive home, and THEN fill them up. ;)
I was Autozone looking for some info on this, and their computers showed 90 weight, but I wanted to see what everyone else has in their rigs. I don't trust those computers. Autozone didn't have enough 80W(only 3 Quarts), they didn't have ANY 90W, but a lot of 75W-90.
 

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Convicted Drunk Dialer
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75W-90 is 90 weight. Its just a multigrade. Running 80 wont hurt anything, you can use whichever is available.

Edit: oops.
 

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The 75w-90 everywhere I've seen is the only thing offered as full syn. It's what I run in my 8.8 with a detroit. Though I went the slightly cheaper route and filled it up with the 55g drum of Shell/Rotella 75w90 we have at work. :rofl:

It'll be fine.
 

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You will have to drive the vehicle around for couple hundred miles to heat up the fluid and r&p, then let it cool down. Do this couple of times. Then about 1k miles, you'll need to change the fluid. For the rear, it a simple drop the cover. Some rebuild kits for the 8.8 include a new cork gasket for the cover. That can be reused if not destroyed when opening the cover.
For the front, you really can't drain it easily. You can suck the fluid through the fill hole (like a Jiffy Lube would do). But with the housing out, you can drill and tap the swing arm or the diff housing for an easy way of draining the front. (There is nothing wrong with the sucking action as the front axle is hardly used in most to all 4wd vehicles.) Oil changing places won't drop the rear axle cover, they will also suck it out through the fill hole.

You won't need to put the front into 4wd, but you can engage the hubs through the lockouts. It will feel and drive funny and that's because the front axle is engaged and spinning, thus axles and driveshaft also will spin. If you have a traction device (LSD, locker) installed, it will also effect the handling and steering.
 

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You will have to drive the vehicle around for couple hundred miles to heat up the fluid and r&p, then let it cool down. Do this couple of times. Then about 1k miles, you'll need to change the fluid. For the rear, it a simple drop the cover. Some rebuild kits for the 8.8 include a new cork gasket for the cover. That can be reused if not destroyed when opening the cover.
For the front, you really can't drain it easily. You can suck the fluid through the fill hole (like a Jiffy Lube would do). But with the housing out, you can drill and tap the swing arm or the diff housing for an easy way of draining the front. (There is nothing wrong with the sucking action as the front axle is hardly used in most to all 4wd vehicles.) Oil changing places won't drop the rear axle cover, they will also suck it out through the fill hole.
Sixlitre installed a drain plug for the D44 TTB. Here >http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/superford/vehicles/registry/4970/17957

You won't need to put the front into 4wd, but you can engage the hubs through the lockouts. It will feel and drive funny and that's because the front axle is engaged and spinning, thus axles and driveshaft also will spin. If you have a traction device (LSD, locker) installed, it will also effect the handling and steering.
Could the same thing be accomplished with engaging 4HI with a manual t-case and then putting it back into 2HI of course it would disengage if you reverse for more than 5-10 feet but does the same effect occur? Not sure if thats what you explained but is that what you mean?
D
 

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Thanks LieutDan

As soon as our man GeorgP's gears have bedded/worn in, I'd recommend synthetic diff fluid.

I can feel the difference in rolling resistance myself

Sixlitre
 

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Sayulita Layta!
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for the front I use 85w-90 with ford friction modifier (gotta please that limited slip) and in the rear its got the same minus the friction modifier. I just followed what it said in the installation instructions. Oh and I dont run synthetic gear oil because it'll make a limited slip slip (which is what you dont want).
 

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Could the same thing be accomplished with engaging 4HI with a manual t-case and then putting it back into 2HI of course it would disengage if you reverse for more than 5-10 feet but does the same effect occur? Not sure if thats what you explained but is that what you mean?
D
Thanks LieutDan

As soon as our man GeorgP's gears have bedded/worn in, I'd recommend synthetic diff fluid.

I can feel the difference in rolling resistance myself

Sixlitre
No problem, I love to spread the useful knowledge/tips/tricks.

But, I still didn't get any answer to my question though. :cry:cry

How else would one break-in the frontend?

D
 
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