[bigbrownbear]

OK, I have attempted to search, but after reading 30 or so threads, I couldn't find my answer.

I am looking down the barrel of being forced to up the gears in my BKO (My 38's are getting here tommorow).

So, for some reason I remember reading that if you upgrade 4.56's or above you need to also upgrade the carrier and diff cover.

So other then the rings and pinions themselves, what else would be needed to upgrade from 3.55's to 4.88's. (Other then the mechanic to put them in)

Thanks in advance.

 

[ChrisIDV]

8.8? You will need a new carrier, ring and pinion, and install kit.

 

[Hopper]

8.8? You will need a new carrier, ring and pinion, and install kit.

No, that's wrong; the 8.8 has no carrier break.

Your shopping list should include:

1) 3.92 and up D44 carrier
2) 4.88 R&P for the front and rear
3) Install kits front and rear
4) Notched cross pin thingy for the 8.8 (IIRC that might come with a quality install kit)
5) Gear oil, RTV, and friction modifier if you are reusing an L/S (you shouldn't, IMO).

I bet you already know this, but 38s are a little much for a D44 and 8.8. I'd weld the tubes, make a truss for the 8.8, and drive like grandma if I were you...

 

[AUBronco]

Well Hopper covered that one for you.

 

[Bronco4Life]

No, that's wrong; the 8.8 has no carrier break.

Your shopping list should include:

1) 3.92 and up D44 carrier
2) 4.88 R&P for the front and rear
3) Install kits front and rear
4) Notched cross pin thingy for the 8.8 (IIRC that might come with a quality install kit)
5) Gear oil, RTV, and friction modifier if you are reusing an L/S (you shouldn't, IMO).

I bet you already know this, but 38s are a little much for a D44 and 8.8. I'd weld the tubes, make a truss for the 8.8, and drive like grandma if I were you...

Hopper got it.

Also, I hope you pray daily... be sure to include your stock 1/2ton axles.

 

[ChrisIDV]

No, that's wrong; the 8.8 has no carrier break.

Your shopping list should include:

1) 3.92 and up D44 carrier
2) 4.88 R&P for the front and rear
3) Install kits front and rear
4) Notched cross pin thingy for the 8.8 (IIRC that might come with a quality install kit)
5) Gear oil, RTV, and friction modifier if you are reusing an L/S (you shouldn't, IMO).

I bet you already know this, but 38s are a little much for a D44 and 8.8. I'd weld the tubes, make a truss for the 8.8, and drive like grandma if I were you...

Doh. You're right. I was tryin to remember if it was the 44 or 8.8 that had the break and guess I remembered wrong.

 

[Shadofax]

Hopper covered it,

but the thread poster had well chosesn words..."looking down the barrel of being forced..."

Tire choice will continue this pattern of forcing further behavior.:banghead:doh0715:

 

[arkansawer]

Well i dunno about the D44 and 8.8 not holding up to the 38s. I mean look at Gack, hes running 38s and all stock axles except for the gears. Running 80+ mph down the interstate and everything was just fine.

But other than that, Hopper covered it. And im glad you asked this question, as i was about to do that myself.

 

[Bronco4Life]

Well i dunno about the D44 and 8.8 not holding up to the 38s. I mean look at Gack, hes running 38s and all stock axles except for the gears. Running 80+ mph down the interstate and everything was just fine.

But other than that, Hopper covered it. And im glad you asked this question, as i was about to do that myself.

True... 38's won't be a tremendous amount of street on a mall crawler. On a wheeled rig though, it's asking for trouble.

 

[79F150]

I have 38's on half tons. Leave the front carrier open and lock the rear. I am about to upgrade shafts to beef things up some. Easy on the stupid pedal..

The bad part for you is they don't make them for the TTB.

D44 Chrome Moly 4340 Front Axle Set
Catalog > D44 Chrome Moly 4340 Front Axle Set
Item #22034 - New
STRONGEST AXLES AVAILABLE!!!
4340 Chrome Moly Axle Set
1978-79 Ford Bronco
1976-79 Ford F100 and F150(2) Inners Axle, (2) Outers Axle, (2) U-Joints and (2) Slingers
For use in 1978-79 Ford Bronco and 1976-79 Ford F150.
If you're looking for strength and durability, you found it!
Dana 44 4340 Chrome-moly front axles are made only from the best steel available and are engineered to withstand even the most extreme off-road conditions.
Chrome-moly axles are through hardened to a consistent 46 to 51 Rockwell.
This deep heat treating along with the high quality material give you 35-40% strength increase over stock axle shafts.
This makes the Chrome Moly axle shafts approximately the same strength as a stock 1979 D60 front axles.
With the 760X u-joint, you will have a very stout Dana 44!
NOTE:
Does not fit F150 Supercab
Our Price: $355.00

Plans are the same for the rear and yes I wheel my rig...

 

[bigbrownbear]

Hopper got it.

Also, I hope you pray daily... be sure to include your stock 1/2ton axles.

I was not intending to open the "can of Worms" about when at 8.8 can handle. My rig is going to be driven mainly on the beaches, and through some minor mud on my way to the hunting grounds. I did not intend to get this large of a tire (Was planning 36's), but a trade came up that was favorable for both parties.

And since it isn't a DD for me, when it breaks down I will just be force to upgrade to a 9 inch.....:beer

 

[magnumpi]

if your gonna wheel it you REALLY need to truss or weld the tubes on the 8.8
It WILL break over time. Ask Dave's Bronc 90

 

[stomp13]

And since it isn't a DD for me, when it breaks down I will just be force to upgrade to a 9 inch.....:beer

I would be more worried about the Dana44 than the 8.8

 

[Joes93Bronco]

It seems to me that the common consensus on this board is that the 9" isn't any stronger then the 8.8. So that wouldn't necessarily be an upgrade. Better to do like suggested and truss the 8.8 and upgrade the shafts.

 

[Bronco4Life]

Yeah, I'd consider a d60/14b over a 9" any day.

 

[magnumpi]

yeah, a 9 inch CAN be built tuff. (more specifically the diff) but i wouldn't put one in to replace a 8.8

14bolt, d70, or 10.25. Go big or go home

 

[Hopper]

Well i dunno about the D44 and 8.8 not holding up to the 38s. I mean look at Gack, hes running 38s and all stock axles except for the gears. Running 80+ mph down the interstate and everything was just fine.

Gack has also repeatedly stated that he feels that the axles are completely inadequate and that he will be replacing them as soon as possible. :whiteflag

The 9" will not be worth the trouble unless it's free. The only real "advantage" it has in stock form is that it doesn't use c clips. If you have an E4OD transmission, then the 9" is not worth looking at even if it's free; you will have to buy a $400 VSS relocation kit to use it.

The D44 will handle the 38s better than the 8.8. The main weakness of the 8.8 in my eyes is the crappy housing. The tubes are just too thin for a fullsize. Welding the tubes to the diff and trussing it is a must (even for a mall crawler) if you intend to run 38s. It's cheap and easy to do, and whoever does your gears will probably cut a little off if you bring them the axle out of the vehicle. :thumbup

 

[bigbrownbear]

OK so as far as welding the tubes to the diff, and trussing it....

Any chance someone has some pics of what they did. I searched and only found a thread from 2003 where the link didn't work.....

 

[magnumpi]

When you are welding the tubes to the diff all you are doing is cleaning up the area where the axle tube goes into the differential at. Then laying a thick bead all the way around it. There are a few (3 per side i think) plug welds on the differential housing that hold the axle tubes in place in the diff. If the plug welds break, which they probably will if you wheel it alot, then the axle tubes and spin and screw up all kinds of stuff.

Actually an axle truss might be a good idea for the 8.8. I recall a few people actually bending the housing, truss might prevent some of that.

 

[bigbrownbear]

Just incase anyone cared. Tires can be seen here

http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116920

Is there a way to upgrade and stay 5 lug???