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1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8L/E4OD
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
182716

I’ve got a lower mile clean 1996 Eddie Bauer in Royal Blue and it’s totally stock. Too clean to mod has been my mantra for over a year, and I daily this. The ABS sensor turned on, I bought all new ones and the fronts are seized in the hub. I also have auto hubs. I have rusty Gabriel shocks. The frame/suspension is flaking the factory coating, belly is super clean. The front suspension/steering isn’t as tight as I’d like for a daily driver. This was how I began my, “while I’m at it” slippery slope to what I’ve accumulated and have on back order.

I’m lazy, and if there’s something worth doing…..I would rather do it all at the same time. If I’m pulling apart the front wheel bearings, I’m digging pretty deep to do just ABS sensors. Fresh bearings/seals, upgraded rotors, new powder coated calipers, braided lines, upgrade ball joints and tie rod ends, replace all the radius/ttb pivot bushings and sway bar bushings with urethane. If I’m going to that extent, I was going to do a 2.5” lift with extended radius arms at first, but that evolved to a JBG 5.5” lift with extended radius arms and with Deaver coil and leaf springs. Generally speaking, I’m also using some Eastwood products to prep and paint the frame and any suspension parts that are getting reused and not replaced. The belly will get prepped and coated in Raptor liner. Upping from 31x10.50’s to some 33x12.50’s for now due to open diffs and 3.55’s. 35 later once the diffs get rebuilt/regeared to 4.56’s and limited slip diff/air locker is added.


This stage is strictly suspension/steering upgrades and transmission upgrades (deeper pan and a big external trans cooler. As close to a pan drop and filter change as I can make it.)
182720

Waiting on backordered parts, then the fun will begin :) This phase will transition into body and paint. Respraying Royal Blue with something more (maybe a pearl) and change the pin striping a bit and possibly do the mocha in raptor liner. I’m going to make a jig with the aid of a HF tube bender and rebuild the Lund fiberglass step side brackets…..F*** paying $500 for repops.

Debating on going with Trickflow heads/mystery cam, Holley LS style intake/tb/fuel injection and MSD coil on plug ignition system, or GT40 3bar heads/intake manifold/mystery cam and deal with OBD2/MAF tuning….maybe just Edelbrock heads/intake & BBK TB and K.I.S.S style….not sure. A nice mandrel bent with v-clamps true dual through the factory run is happening either way and a nice set of headers.
 

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Registered
1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8L/E4OD
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Also have ordered Bilstein 5100 shocks. Have a dual steering stabilizer bracket set, need to order matching shocks for it.

Looking at a pair of stahl steel 2” hubcentric spacers to widen the rear to match the front track width. I’m debating on getting a pair of 4”, if the 2” work out well in the back, to kick the 2” up front and add the 4” in the rear. I’ve seen a lot of 12”-14” wide wheels on OBS Fords that have me rubber necked like crazy, I’d like to see how well these 15x10’s look (wet sanded/polished out) kicked out on 33’s
 

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Super Moderator
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28,821 Posts
Yo Swazo,
I showed my much-better-half the pic of your Bronco with the little girl and we both assume she is reacting to your "Too clean to mod" plans!🙏
Have fun!
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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16,089 Posts
@Swazo, welcome to the FSB family..great looking Bronco and cute kid..I forgot when mine looked like that..Get her involved as you start digging into the Bronco and you'll have a mechanics helper for life..
 

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Registered
1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8L/E4OD
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Believe those are factory steps not lund. The tubing rebuild would be pretty cool. Beats paying used or new prices.
Want me to show my ignorance, let me talk.
Ive seen ratty OEM parts in worse shape than mine go for stupid $ on EBay, can’t bring myself to buy updated repops from Jeff’s Bronco Graveyard $500.

They look simple enough to improve on the factory design/quality. Famous last words?
 

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Registered
1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8L/E4OD
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I’m going to have to order the secondary front shocks separate, and figure out which shocks to order for the steering stablizers…..but a base set of 5100s are on their way
 

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Registered
1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8L/E4OD
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Small setback, couldn’t get the Deaver leaf springs for at least another month…. so I opted to just do blocks as a temp measure to get my suspension/frame/belly restoration before fall hits.

Most stuff is on hand now, just waiting on the lift kit
 

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Registered
1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8L/E4OD
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
and
growing
184285


Still undecided on how to prep and paint the frame/belly, and what the final topcoat will be. Likely doing the belly in black bedliner. I have a dead sending unit, and am going to drop the tank just to fix that and to access everything for painting.

I’m heavily leaning towards redoing the body mounts prior to body/paint, and would love the chance to properly prep/paint the top of the frame and body mounting points. Either replacing with urethane or solid body mounts in prep for a roll cage later on….
 

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1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8L/E4OD
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I grabbed a box of TSP and am pre-degreasing the bad spots first and just soaking them throughout the day, as I pull the factory running boards and their brackets.
184375



These things have me throwing a few ideas around.

A) rock sliders with step support and notch the fiberglass where needed

B) Duplicate main part in DOM, modified hangers. Powder coat

I’ve got to pull it all for the brackets, and for some minor fiberglass repair. Very tempted to make molds once they’re perfected (especially if I go with plan A)
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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4,219 Posts
Looks like a great project but... Something to consider for your undercarriage protection is... unless the raptor liner comes in a rust converter variant you might want to consider something else for the under body... Something like monstaliner's chassis saver. Different from other bed liner products as it's actually a flexible rust converter and metal preserver instead of just a top coat that could separate from the metal allowing moisture penetration that would then be trapped between your bed liner and metal and we all know what happens then...
 

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1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8L/E4OD
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looks like a great project but... Something to consider for your undercarriage protection is... unless the raptor liner comes in a rust converter variant you might want to consider something else for the under body... Something like monstaliner's chassis saver. Different from other bed liner products as it's actually a flexible rust converter and metal preserver instead of just a top coat that could separate from the metal allowing moisture penetration that would then be trapped between your bed liner and metal and we all know what happens then...
Ive gone around and around on what encapsulator to use. I’d prefer to get it clean enough to use epoxy primer, but I’m not doing a frame off. I have had good success topcoating POR15 with longevity. I’ve read there are better products around, came very close to getting Eastwood’s “Platinum/3x” Encapsulator and was going to paint the frame with their 2K satin black and raptor line the belly in mocha.

I’ve ordered Chassis Saver’s in sliver for contrast sake, and will be prepping the belly traditionally with epoxy. Both the frame and the belly are getting topcoated with black raptor liner.

I’ve been pussyfooting around prepping what I can prior to disassembling stuff (4.5”grinder w/ various wire wheels and 60 grit flap wheels, 3/8” corded drill with various wire wheels, wire brushes of various sizes, 6” DA and a 5” RO sanders with 60 grit).
From the factory radius arms bracket location to the back bumper, the outside of the frame is prepped.
It’s to the point it’s ready to temporarily to go up on stands and disassembly to commence. To be able to just unbolt shit and clean/prep/paint pieces AND have a wide open frame to finalize/paint while it’s apart would be nice.

I was going to go with Desolate 2” TTB mounts and cut-n-turned beams, but that will have to wait. I want to focus on the restoration parts now, and pay my due diligence. Anything that can be done later, like diff upgrades/regearing, body/paint, etc, is going to have to. “Winter is coming.”

Worthwhile pics/info coming soon, just have to put it together
 

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Registered
1996 Eddie Bauer 5.8L/E4OD
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18 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I’ll also be using Eastwood internal frame coatings for the handful of braces and misc sections that can’t be coated any other way, after they’ve been flushed/blown out/vac’d.
 

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Registered
82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
Joined
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4,219 Posts
Ive gone around and around on what encapsulator to use. I’d prefer to get it clean enough to use epoxy primer, but I’m not doing a frame off. I have had good success topcoating POR15 with longevity. I’ve read there are better products around, came very close to getting Eastwood’s “Platinum/3x” Encapsulator and was going to paint the frame with their 2K satin black and raptor line the belly in mocha.

I’ve ordered Chassis Saver’s in sliver for contrast sake, and will be prepping the belly traditionally with epoxy. Both the frame and the belly are getting topcoated with black raptor liner.

I’ve been pussyfooting around prepping what I can prior to disassembling stuff (4.5”grinder w/ various wire wheels and 60 grit flap wheels, 3/8” corded drill with various wire wheels, wire brushes of various sizes, 6” DA and a 5” RO sanders with 60 grit).
From the factory radius arms bracket location to the back bumper, the outside of the frame is prepped.
It’s to the point it’s ready to temporarily to go up on stands and disassembly to commence. To be able to just unbolt shit and clean/prep/paint pieces AND have a wide open frame to finalize/paint while it’s apart would be nice.

I was going to go with Desolate 2” TTB mounts and cut-n-turned beams, but that will have to wait. I want to focus on the restoration parts now, and pay my due diligence. Anything that can be done later, like diff upgrades/regearing, body/paint, etc, is going to have to. “Winter is coming.”

Worthwhile pics/info coming soon, just have to put it together
You seem a bit all over the map with products... Why? When 1 will do it all ..
I'm sure you're aware but there is a difference between a rust converter and a rust encapsulator... Rust Converters need the rust to work; it's like a 2 part system with the rust acting as the activator. A rust converter is a special phosphoric blend that takes the iron oxide (rust) and converts it into a ferric phosphate essentially turning it back into iron again, and restoring the integrity of the metal.
Rust Encapsulator can be applied over lightly rusted metal, or even clean bare metal, and seals it from moisture and corrosion...any rust still under it is encapsulated and stopped from spreading, but it does not convert or cure it back to durable metal, it does not restore integrity of the surface and can crack (because it is so hard) and allow air/moisture penetration which will continue the rust.
I know you saw the link, but I strongly feel if you're going thru all the effort to disassemble everything to preserve it that the chassis saver really is the best option for longevity, durability, flexibility, and restoration.... Not to mention a little less labor since it actually needs a degree of rust to activate...I mean I know it's only working with a grinder, but less is still better and some of those spots you may not want to grind down so much that it'll do more damage. This way you can get away with a light sanding and convert the rust instead of removeing it all completely...

Sorry, just my 2¢. If you're gonna spend the money, spend it wisely on a one and done product...
 
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