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So your still working out the bugs? I want to use the James Duff track link and radious arms and was just wondering how everything worked out? It looks like everything nearly bolted in for you, I am thinking of getting the raised coil buckets also. It says on the Duff site a front shock will not clear the steering.
 

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So your still working out the bugs? I want to use the James Duff track link and radious arms and was just wondering how everything worked out? It looks like everything nearly bolted in for you, I am thinking of getting the raised coil buckets also. It says on the Duff site a front shock will not clear the steering.
yeah so i cant say whether mine will work haha. But i think im gonna swap the trac bar mount and trac bar for a bulletproof steering one, cause the trac bar looks like it will hit my crossmember so i am moving it.

Bolted up... ehh not really. It put up a larger fight than you think. "bolt in" isn't what it seems for most of it lol.


Now what do you mean by front shock not clearing? how so?
 

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So your still working out the bugs? I want to use the James Duff track link and radious arms and was just wondering how everything worked out? It looks like everything nearly bolted in for you, I am thinking of getting the raised coil buckets also. It says on the Duff site a front shock will not clear the steering.
Yeah so by no means mine is done and WILL work the way i think. there are still bugs.. But bolt in really isnt bolt in haha least not on mine there was blood at times. lots of it.

Now what do you mean by shocks not clearing? with the use of their raised coil buckets?
 

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The James Duff site stated that they recommend using their dual rear shock mount for my 1991 Bronce due to my truck has two shocks on either side. One is located in front of the twin I beam axle, if I were to use the front shock they claim it will interfere with the steering linkage.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
I am getting together my goodies over the next couple months, I,picked up a D60 so I am looking at doing the same set up as yours. How did you determine how to set up you steering linkage? Did you just order up a kit?
Setting up steering is simple. I used a combination of some new parts from RuffStuff and some old stuff I had laying around. If I was doing it again, with no parts on hand, I would just order the steering kit from RuffStuff and throw it together. There really isn't much too it.

I was gonna use that trac bar mount but it seemed that the angle might be off with the drag link.
Kind of depends on the steering setup you use. Whether you are knuckle over or under, what pitman arm you are using, etc.

So your still working out the bugs? I want to use the James Duff track link and radious arms and was just wondering how everything worked out? It looks like everything nearly bolted in for you, I am thinking of getting the raised coil buckets also. It says on the Duff site a front shock will not clear the steering.
The weather has been crappy here. The week we had nice weather, I was on a cruise, so i couldn't work on the truck.

Yeah so by no means mine is done and WILL work the way i think. there are still bugs.. But bolt in really isnt bolt in haha least not on mine there was blood at times. lots of it.

Now what do you mean by shocks not clearing? with the use of their raised coil buckets?
This setup was fairly bolt in for me. Well, after drilling a couple holes. The only thing that was fabricated was the steering, which could have been entirely bolt in using stock parts from a 79 bronco and a 95 f350. Read the steering threads here.

The James Duff site stated that they recommend using their dual rear shock mount for my 1991 Bronce due to my truck has two shocks on either side. One is located in front of the twin I beam axle, if I were to use the front shock they claim it will interfere with the steering linkage.
You don't have to use dual shocks. Quite a few vehicles came from the factory with single shocks. Tons of trucks on FSB are running singles. That's all I will have is singles.
 

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From what I have gathered you want the track bar mounted in the same location as your drag link? I sounds logical, that was when the axle articulates the steering is on the same plane as the track link. There are so many variations on steering that I have seen it is hard to determine the best route, I have seen everything fron running strait from the steering arm to the right tie Rod to a idler link set up like a GM has with two tie rods. Either way I guess it depends on the amount of lift intended for sure, I think since I am not going crazy big tires top steer is not a consideration.
 

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Yeah I am sure one remote reseviour adjustable dampening shock is all I would need unless I went with some cheesy ones. The shock kit from Duff does duals and bolts up to their tower though. I want to use their upper towers and lower buckets for better spring retention, also I can use a longer spring for more travel as a plus. I figure if I use a longer spring it will compress and droop more than a shorter one, another factor is I can adjust the upper and lower seat angles for perfect alignment to prevent spring bow and buckling. I have read several threads on both bowing springs and pop out being an issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
Got the 205 back in. Built and installed 1410 rear driveshaft (only cost me $20 and about 2 hours of my time). Replaced the starter solenoid and battery, and the truck fired right up.

Drove the truck yesterday. Even though it was only 2 feet to move it over in the driveway a little bit. Going to go over the truck and put a checklist together of all the little things it needs to finish it up.

So far: (updated 1/24/2016)

Needs
Oil change
Top off fluids (purchased)
steering castle nuts and cotter pins
Drill & install last 2 track bar bracket bolts
Adjust track bar to get axle centered
shorten drag link
Steering alignment
Ball joints
Grease wheel bearings
Install front brakes (purchased)
New lockout hubs (purchased)
Mount shock towers (purchased)
Install front shocks (hopefully they fit)
Flip u-joint in front driveshaft that is installed backwards
Drill and install last bolt on each radius arm bracket
Remove side step on drivers side
Design & build 1356 shifter cable bracket
Install shifters (purchased)
Build & install np205 support (purchased)
Modify transmission crossmember for front driveshaft clearance
Bolt down seats in cab

Wants
Install shackle flip (purchased)
Install extended shackle (purchased)
Install extended brake lines (purchased)
Design & build gas tank skid plate
Design & build new bumpers
Design & build rock sliders
Find & fix slow A/C leak
Rebuild extra steering box
Replace entire power steering system to fix all the leaks (Saginaw pump, rebuilt box, new lines. Its leaking EVERYWHERE)
Fix leak between transmission and doubler (slow leak so not super worried right now)
Start chasing down every other leak this thing seems to have

I'm sure there are still more things, but this is all I can think up right now, without actually having hands on, on the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Apparently the 1996 brake lines don't match up with the 1979 brake calipers. So now I will have to move the extended brake lines from my want list to my need list. i'll have to drag them out, and see if they will fit. I haven't looked at them in a long time, so I'm not 100% sure of their application.
 

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Discussion Starter #77
I dug out my SS lines. They will work. Just need to get a tee that will work on the drivers side. My lines are both like what you would find on the passenger side. Any ideas on what size the factory hard lines are? I believe they are 3/16, but I haven't confirmed yet.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Updated my list. Little things, but I got the brakes connected and ignition coil replaced. Still not the extended brake lines, but I realized what I was doing wrong with the new calipers and old brake lines for them not to fit. They are super tight, but are good enough now for little things like moving it around the driveway, loading onto a trailer as needed, etc. Test drove it around the block. Apparently the transfer case and doubler are both currently in low. I was maxing out at about 15 mph.
 
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