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Going with an Aussie up front

3K views 38 replies 12 participants last post by  TravisITGuy 
#1 ·
Well i am getting a new Aussie locker from KyleQ for my TTB D44. It should arrive next week some time. Ive ran a few searches looking for a writeup on performing this task. the few i saw had limited pictures or direction. Ive heard the directions that come with this locker are real good so hopefully that will help. finding a warm place with a hard surface is going to be the next challenge. More to come with pics of course.

not sure if this will become a write up just yet.

Travis
 
#2 ·
Well i recieved my aussie locker in the mail yesterday, pics will be uploaded this evening. ive heard this install isnt to bad, although this is my first time tearing apart the front end. Are there any short cuts or specific steps to getting the third member out the easiest. it would be great if i didnt have to pull apart the whole front end. also i currently have 4.88 ring/pinion, do this ring gear tend to be thick requiring removal of the ring gear. any help with this install steps i would appreciate.

Thanks
Travis
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the pics. i am really hoping i can get this aussie installed with out having to remove the carrier and ring gear or is that just wishful thinking.
 
#7 ·
Its not that bad of an install. Once you get the chunk out and have the Aussie ready to go back in, follow the Aussie setup instructions !!!! The clearences need to be met or else you'll be back in there redoing everything. If you dont already have a set of feeler gauges, get some. And buy a digital caliper. Harbor Freight has a decent one for about $15. ( Once you start the install, you'll see what I mean)
 
#8 ·
the locker didnt have instructions with it. i contacted the company to see about getting them either mailed or sent via pdf. Now the shims i need are those just standard TTB D44 shims or are there special ones i need ordered and how many come in a package?
 
#12 ·
ok cool. i might convers with the fella that did my gear install and see if he would just give me a hand if i do the wrenching.
 
#14 ·
if the hubs arent locked then you wont notice it at all. i also figured if the weather was bad and i needed 4wd i would only lock in 1 hub.
 
#15 ·
does anyone know if the Yukon 4.88 Ring gear for the D44 is a thick ring gear? if not i might be able to install the aussie with out removing the ring gear from the carrier. i do know the 3.92+ carrier was installed with my gears.
 
#17 ·
Well i spoke to my gear installer. He said i should only have to dismantle the driver side hub assembly so i can drop out the center section. He said that as long as i put everything back in order exactly how it was removed i should be fine even removing the Ring gear. He said to mark the ring gear and the carrier along with the bolts so everything goes back as it was. so once i get started on this i will take crazy pics

Thanks
 
#18 ·
Kem Just mark everything you will have to pull the ring gear out just mark it with a paint marker you will be fine. It took me 15 minutes to put mine in after the carrier was pulled from the diff. just be careful with the springs use alot of greese to keep the pins in there.

heres mine all done


 
#25 ·
Valve springs are too stiff. I used a spring from Tractor Supply. I wish I could tell you the sku# and the measurement I ended up with when i cut the spring but, I cant. If you use a valve spring , it will pop the plate out of the center of the yoke unless you weld it. You dont need alot of tension to keep the shaft engaged.
 
#26 ·
I put the Aussie in front and back about a year ago. Easy instal and I haven't blown anything up yet. I honestly bought them knowing I was going to 60's front and rear and didn't mind if I blew up my current axles(sort of).
I can't complain about how they've worked well so far. Locked front and rear for less than $250!
Good luck with yours.

-r
 
#27 ·
any pics of the install? i might tear into this over the weekend. ive heard many others use a valve spring. its even mentioned on the aussie locker website, if its a problem why arent others having issues?
 
#28 ·
Sorry I didn't get any pics.

The back took me less than 30 min. Most of the time was spent draining and refilling the dif.
The front took longer because I didn't have any kind of jack or lift that I could use to put the housing back in place. I had to rig a ghetto fabulous pulley system up through the engine bay to get it back in there. I didn't use a valve spring, I used a little softer spring that I had available. Seems to be working out fine.
I'd say if you don't have the TTB, unless something is different between that and the solid 44, you're set. It really was that easy.

-r
 
#29 ·
if i shouldnt use a valve spring then what should i use? Cracker you have a part number you can scroung up?
 
#30 ·
The spring I used was just some generic spring I found @ Tractor Supply. It's been a while but, I think it was a 1" diameter spring and I cut it down to something like 1 1/4" length. You dont need a very strong spring either. The one I used could be compressed between your thumb and forefinger. Maybe 10# of pressure???
Im sorry I cant be more specific but, it's been a while since I did my install. Between working on my junk and my friend's stuff, it all kinda runs together in an old geezer's mind. :toothless
 
#31 ·
i will swing by a few tractor places and see what i can come up with. do you think lowes would carry a spring like that as well?
 
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