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91 4x4 Eddie Bauer 5.8L 351
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m totally new to the Bronco world, I’ve love the look of them since I was a kid and I’m finally looking into getting one. I’ve found two locally that I’m going to check out tomorrow. Both look beautiful in the photos. One is an 89’ XLT 5.8L 4x4 with about 140,000 miles on it and he’s asking $12,500. The other is a 91’ Eddie Bauer 5.8L 351 engine with an estimated around 200k miles and he’s asking $15k for that one with room to negotiate due to the high mileage. Any help would be infinitely appreciated! Let
Me know if you need more info or have any recommendations of what I should be looking for when I go to check them out. Thanks everyone!
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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Hmm - sounds to me like they are asking an awful lot. Are they pristine? Seems you could get a better deal if you look around some more. I don’t know where you’re located, but if your in the rust belt, you could probably get a pristine one from out of state and ship it to yourself for cheaper than those prices.
 

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91 4x4 Eddie Bauer 5.8L 351
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
170517
170518
I’m in Michigan. I thought the price was high too, but I really had no local comparisons. In photos they look immaculate, but I haven’t seen them in person.
 

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Agree 100%
I got my 95 EB 5.8L not running for $500. It needed a fuel pump and registration. Took about another $500 to get it running and registered with the title in my name. I had to go the extra mile to get the title in my name. Anyway I think you should Keep looking. Don't be in too much of a hurry to spend a lot of money. Keep in mind these are all about 25 years or older now depending on what year you get. Personal preference here but I'd focus on finding a '92 - '96 as their should be more still available for junk yard parts as they will all need parts from time to time and with them being as old as they are you have to remember they will eventually break down from any number of things that can and do go wrong with these old trucks. Good luck with your search and show us what you are looking at or what you end up with.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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I’m in SE Michigan. I know a guy selling a 95 Eddie Bauer that needs some work (maybe $2500-3000 in repairs) for $5000. He also has a beautiful green almost rust free 96 Eddie Bauer that he told me he would sell for about $12k or so, and that one needs absolutely nothing. Keep looking, don’t be afraid to look within a 250 mile radius and drive a little.
 

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91 4x4 Eddie Bauer 5.8L 351
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I’d love to see what he’s selling! Also, do you have any recommendations on places to search. I found another great looking one here in MI asking 13k obo, that looks brand new with 140k mikes. I have to be looking in the wrong places, or maybe it’s just MI?
 

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Any states that don't get much snow. Ca, TX, Az, etc.
 

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Here one but the listing is over a year old so I'm sure it's long gone but keep this in mind. Any Ca vehicle with issues most likely has past due and back fees on registration so you can find good deals on those cars. If you are removing from the state it shouldn't matter to you as your state will or should start the clock over on the registration based on the purchase price.

 

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Prices have jumped up in the past 8 months due to the release of the 2021 Bronco... the Brown one looks clean, if it checks out mechanically as nice, it’s easy worth what he’s asking... out here in Oregon 4th gen parts rigs are going for about 5 grand.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, built 357W, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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You're better off using ebay, CL; FB; Offerup; letgo; 5miles etc. That tan brick nose was a clean truck though. Also look out west like oregon, washington, nevada etc.

This guy in Flat Rock goes down south to GA, FL, SC and areas down south and buys super clean Broncos and brings them to MI to sell. As a matter of fact, iirc, he gets FSB member @sackman9975 to look them over and do tune ups for him before he sells them.
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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Yeah that guy has been bringing Broncos from down south up to Michigan, powerwashing the engines, lathering them in armor all & and asking $12000-$15000 on Craigslist & cargurus for years. I guess there's a sucker born every day... or you could just adjust your carguru settings to nationwide & buy one of these other ones, then sell it here in michigan for $15000, after some tire shine of course.
170573


My question to you would be, what do you intend to use the Bronco for? Its your money of course & you can do whatever you want, but If you are looking to buy a bronco to daily drive in the winter, thats a really horrible idea, becuse it will be rusted out in just a few years & it would be a shame to do that to a nice rust free southern Bronco.

Bronco's are well known to have rust issues & with wet salty roads, to me, my Bronco is only good for before the salt hits the roads here in Michigan. Mine is not nice yet but it's getting nicer as I restore it over time, but it stays in a heated/air conditioned garage & doesn't even see rain .
 

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If your going to drop over 8,000 on a Bronco …. I suggest ensuring that the engine and/or transmission has been replaced recently. Dropping 12,000 on a Bronco and have the transmission/engine go out on the way home would be a nightmare scenario.

As stated earlier you can find a rust free Bronco in Arizona. If you research …. I'm sure you can find a rust free one with a bad transmission/motor for under 5,000. Have it towed home and replace the transmission or motor and still be under the asking price above … and you will have years of trouble free enjoyment … not worrying about the ticking time bomb of a 30 year old drive train.
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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At the end of the day it is all your personal preference and budget. I paid 12k for mine and a few people said I paid too much but I love mine and would do it all over again. I bought mine from a guy named George in Michigan. He buys all over the south and fixes them up and sells them. I was given references and checked them and they all spoke highly of him. I would say it was about 98% what he told me and I had no regrets at all. Great guy and tons of help. I actually still talk to him. Let me know if you want his contact. He would be more than happy to help you get what you want I’m sure. Good luck!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Yo CntryBoy211,
Welcome!

Member dash_cam offers very good advice on having an independent inspection done at sellers location! If you cant inspect it yourself, post Location in the noobie section and ask members for their help or seek out an ASE certified shop in area to inspect it for you.
ASE is National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence

Check Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) for 80-96 Model Year & Engine Type by NHTSA @ Welcome to VIN Decoding :: provided by vPIC

Our Navy Federal Credit Union used to suggest using https://www.nadaguides.com for finding the "value" of a vehicle.

Order a CARFAX™. Although not all accident info May not be provided, other important info is provided @ https://www.carfax.com

VINCheck® by National Insurance Crime Bureau is a free service provided to the public to assist in determining if a"... vehicle has been reported as stolen, but not recovered, or has been reported as a salvage vehicle by cooperating NICB member insurance companies. To perform a search, a vehicle identification number (VIN) is required. A maximum of five searches can be conducted within a 24-hour period per IP address." @ VINCheck® | National Insurance Crime Bureau

While you take a test drive, have someone stay behind or follow and check for leak puddles, exhaust smoke, tire shimmy, etc.

Besides the usual visual, driveability and leak checks, look for:
Engine Oil level: If the oil level is low, chances are the engine uses oil or leaks. Beware of water in the oil (there is probably a cracked block or bad head gasket), or thin, dirty oil with a distinct gasoline smell (this may indicate internal engine problems).
Oil pan rust - our's formed spots @ 62k miles - sand it down and prime/paint it w/Rust Bullet Automotive) & high temp. paint - too time-consuming replacement for such a basic thing as not having better gauge and paint by Ford
Try opening and closing tailgate and moving glass
Radiator plastic side seam leaks, esp. during engine cool-down period/overnight - our's leaked @ 50k miles & again just recently - look for leaks after engine has cooled down, esp overnight
Auto tranny - E4OD in 90 to 96 had a lot of improvements made by 96 so look for good shifts and see the maintenance records; fluids/filter should have been changed every 30k miles and less if used for towing.
Pull the transmission dipstick out when the engine is running at normal operating temp. The level should read FULL.
For it and C6 or AOD, look for leaks around pan from (front) Pump seal. Observe color and odor of the fluid. It should be red, not brown or black. Dark brown or black fluid that has distinct burnt odor, indicates a transmission in need of repair or overhaul.
Odor may indicate overheating condition, clutch disc or band failure. Use an absorbent white facial tissue and wipe the fluid level indicator. Examine the stain for evidence of solid particles and for engine coolant signs (gum or varnish on fluid level indicator).
If particles are present in the fluid or there is evidence of engine coolant or water, the transmission pan must be removed for further inspection.

The M5OD is a top shift, fully synchronized, five-speed manual transmission (7003), equipped with an overdrive fifth gear ratio. All gear changes including reverse are accomplished with synchronizer sleeves.
Inspect the case for cracks, worn or damaged bores, damaged threads, or any other damage that could affect operation of the transmission. Inspect the machined mating surfaces for burrs, nicks or damage.
The clutch may be hard to depress and/or the clutch slave cylinder may wear out prematurely on some Broncos. This may be due to the clutch slave cylinder allowing hydraulic fluid to leak.

Check Engine Light (CEL) comes on when the electronic engine control system is not working properly. The check engine warning indicator comes on briefly when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON, and should turn off when the engine starts. If the check engine warning indicator does not come on when the ignition switch lock cylinder is turned to ON or if it comes on while the vehicle is moving, the system is malfunctioning
If the CEL does not light up at all when starting it; then suspect that bulb is burnt-out or loose, socket was damaged by PO or shop, etc. or someone removed it.

In the 91, E4OD, if equipped Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL)i is a LED and overdrive on/off switch mounted on instrument panel.
In the 89, AOD, if equipped is a 4 speed automatic transmission incorporating an integral overdrive feature. The design of the transmission features a split torque path in third gear, where 40% of the engine torque is transmitted hydraulically through the torque converter and 60% is transmitted mechanically through solid connections (direct drive input shaft) to the driveshaft. When the transmission is in overdrive (4th gear), 100% of engine torque is transmit through the direct drive input shaft.

In both years, the Anti-Lock Brake (ABS) system is what is called an "open" hydraulic system. When an ABS stop is initiated and wheel lock is detected, the isolation or inlet valve closes, preventing any more fluid from going to the rear wheels. Then, if necessary to prevent lockup, an outlet or dump valve opens to bleed fluid out of the rear brake lines. That fluid goes to an accumulator and is held there for the remainder of the stop.In RABS "open" system, if there is a low fluid condition and the red warning light comes on, the ABS electronic control unit will detect this condition, turn the amber ABS warning light on and disable the system. The vehicle operator will still have basic brake system performance, but the benefit of RABS is lost.The reason for disabling the RABS is that the low fluid condition could be caused by a leak in the brake system, decreasing its performance.

Cash is King!!!
When Richard Rawling, star of TV show Fast N' Loud was growing up in Fort Worth, Texas, his dad, Raymond Rawlings always had a car or a motorcycle lying around. “It wasn’t the nicest or the best, but it was his,” the younger Rawlings says. Ray wasn’t much of a mechanic, more of a detailer and a tinkerer. On weekends, the guys in the neighborhood would come over, mess around with whatever car Ray had at the time and drink beer in the garage.
One of those guys who came around also taught Rawlings a lesson about negotiating that he still carries with him: “I was around 13. He said, ‘Son, you could buy a $10,000 car all day long for five grand if you have it in your pocket. Always carry cash.’”
Good hunting!
Al
 

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Here is another option located here in the Houston area...... that is if you are not afraid of a little work..... And making one your own.....

Good luck....
 
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