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My front and rear diffs are open with 3.55s and I'm running 31" tires. When I got the truck I thought the tranny was slipping it is so weak and slow.

I just got a quote from Expert Off Road for a regear.

4.56 gears, front and back with master rebuild kits and labor = $1,540.

If I bring them some lockers they will install for free since the diff is already torn open.

I've been looking at the Aussie lockers. The guy said he was nervous about an Aussie in the back, and wants me to put a detroit in instead. He quoted me $552 for a detroit in the back and $269 for a lockright in the front.

Total for gears and his lockers (lockright/detroit) is $2,430.

I've read that the Aussie does fine in the back so I might just bring those in to the shop and only have to pay the $1500 for the regear.

What do you guys think? I don't feel comfortable trying to install the gears myself.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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i wanna say i payed around 1200 for my 4.88's and master install kits installed here in podunk oregon. so being where you live might be about right. I would go aussie , they seeme to do well.

i went with 4.88's and love it especially with the 35's and e4od tranny. at 65mph i am at 2200rpms right at the bottem end of the power range for the 5.8. getting around 14mpg in town at this time.
 

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I just got two quotes of $260 and $300 (each axle) for ring and pinion set-up if I take them all the gears, lockers, install kits, etc... That would just be the labor costs.

Don

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Yup, I'm fullsize....
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My front and rear diffs are open with 3.55s and I'm running 31" tires. When I got the truck I thought the tranny was slipping it is so weak and slow.

I just got a quote from Expert Off Road for a regear.

4.56 gears, front and back with master rebuild kits and labor = $1,540.

If I bring them some lockers they will install for free since the diff is already torn open.

I've been looking at the Aussie lockers. The guy said he was nervous about an Aussie in the back, and wants me to put a detroit in instead. He quoted me $552 for a detroit in the back and $269 for a lockright in the front.

Total for gears and his lockers (lockright/detroit) is $2,430.

I've read that the Aussie does fine in the back so I might just bring those in to the shop and only have to pay the $1500 for the regear.

What do you guys think? I don't feel comfortable trying to install the gears myself.
First, I have to ask - how did you determine the transmisison is good, because 3.55 and 31's is 100% stock. Also, how are you defining slow? Keep in mind, you are driving a stock, 6000 lbs truck and the stock drivetrain is not built for speed.

The amount quoted sounds about right, maybe a little on the cheap side, but that depends on what the local labor rate is. While you're at it, might as well replace the axle shafts, all wheel bearings and u-joints. Also, it's suicide to run 4.56's and 31's, so add tires and maybe rims to the list. While they have the pumpkin out in the front - have the shop drill a drain plug - that's the best time to do ths.

I just did this in January 2007 and spent way more - but I'm running ARB air lockers both front and rear. With new ARB's, 4.56's, master rebuild kits, new bearings, new axle shafts, 35's tires (Truxxus MT's) and Mickey Thompson Classic II's, I think the final bill was a little over $5k. That also included clean up of a ton of crap another shop fubar'd. Too bad the shop that fubar'ed things is out of business...oh well. All that little stuff adds up quick, so does labor.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
First, I have to ask - how did you determine the transmisison is good, because 3.55 and 31's is 100% stock. Also, how are you defining slow? Keep in mind, you are driving a stock, 6000 lbs truck and the stock drivetrain is not built for speed.

The amount quoted sounds about right, maybe a little on the cheap side, but that depends on what the local labor rate is. While you're at it, might as well replace the axle shafts, all wheel bearings and u-joints. Also, it's suicide to run 4.56's and 31's, so add tires and maybe rims to the list. While they have the pumpkin out in the front - have the shop drill a drain plug - that's the best time to do ths.

I just did this in January 2007 and spent way more - but I'm running ARB air lockers both front and rear. With new ARB's, 4.56's, master rebuild kits, new bearings, new axle shafts, 35's tires (Truxxus MT's) and Mickey Thompson Classic II's, I think the final bill was a little over $5k. That also included clean up of a ton of crap another shop fubar'd. Too bad the shop that fubar'ed things is out of business...oh well. All that little stuff adds up quick, so does labor.
I thought my 31"s were aftermarket bc the door tag lists a 235 or 265 tire, I can't remember which.

I don't know if the tranny is OK, I'm guessing. It seems fine on the highway, but off the line there is no grunt and I go uphill like a snail. I couldn't spin my tires when it was raining.

I did the wheelbearings in the front hubs already, and can do u joints myself. The drain plug is a great idea.

I don't understand what you mean by suicide, I should be around 2200 rpm at 65 with 4.56 and 31", and I will upgrade to 33"s (same rims) when I need new tires.

I only paid 2k for my truck, so I want to be as frugal as possible with the upgrades.
 

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I don't understand what you mean by suicide, I should be around 2200 rpm at 65 with 4.56 and 31", and I will upgrade to 33"s (same rims) when I need new tires.
How did you get that number?

At 65 I am turning 2000 RPMs with E4OD, 4.56s and 36" tires. You shuld be close to 2000 RPMs at 65 with 31s and 3.55 gears.:shrug
 

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Ok am I just off my bloody rocker? I was running 3.73's in my old chevy with 35 inch tires and got up and going just FINE with a mild shift kit and a little polish around the carb and the 350 that was in it? Keep in mind low gearing is fantastic UNTIL You start wondering how small the pinion gear is.

Yes smaller pinion gear = weaker pinion gear.

Reduce the gear ratio to bring it more accurately near stock. For your issue. Unless your axles need a rebuild. Put the money in tuning the motor. Torque is what low range and pure motor mods are for. Shave, polish align and possibly port your heads a little. Try an RV cam? If there is one for ford motors. (the RV cam for the 350 works Awesome but I am new to ford parts) a mild shift kit and safe up for Oh wow I might actually say this....

Save up for an SAS? lol If you plan an SAS anyways perhaps your focus should be on other areas. Lockers are great but gear ratio doesn't effect your off roadability as much as you think. At least not until the other aspects are tuned in.

FWIW that's my unedyacayted opinyun.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
How did you get that number?

At 65 I am turning 2000 RPMs with E4OD, 4.56s and 36" tires. You shuld be close to 2000 RPMs at 65 with 31s and 3.55 gears.:shrug
I used this http://www.balsa.no/bil/calcs/gearcalc/

It show 2000rpm for your setup, and 2300 rpms for the same gears and 31"s.

I don't have a tach yet so I don't know what rpms I'm getting now at 65. The calc says it should be 1800. I'm buying a new instrument cluster Friday from someone on this board so I'll know more after I put it in.

RV cam is on my list Black82.
 

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bang for the buck.

Pull up another 80 HP on motor work and exhaust FI etc. 4.11 and higher gear ratio's and please someone interject if I am wrong are more likely to break with 35 inch or larger tires? As far as the costs of going front and rear that sounds pretty fair depending on quality.

I always like to find someone that has worked with them before.
 
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