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Discussion Starter #1
So I had some fun yesterday and got water in the gas tank.

Question 1: What is the best way to make sure it is all out. Planning on cutting the access hole in the floor. Pulling the sending unit/pump and draining the tank. Change the filter. Anything else I need to do? Truck will not start the way it sits.

Question 2: How do you seal the tank so it won't happen again.

In the second picture you can see the water at the back is bubbling from the truck running. It sat in that position for about 45 minutes and once we got out it stalled and wouldn't start back up.

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Yo anaconda,
Our tank rusted out on topside of the tank, allowing water to enter if we were in deep enough water.

Also, the valve you see on top of the tank is the evaporative emission valve (9B593) it may be dislodged.
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"Fuel tanks may be steam-cleaned and/or serviced using standard procedures. After steaming, allow time to thoroughly air dry. The evaporative emission valve (9B593) and fuel tank sending unit and pump should be removed prior to steaming." by Ford in 1996 Bronco Workshop Manual @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series
"Fuel Draining
Use appropriate adapter to connect Rotunda Fuel Storage Tanker 164-R3201 or equivalent suction pump, to the fuel hose (at the fuel pump to fuel tube connection) and drain the fuel tank (9002)."

Less likely, pump & fuel level sending unit gasket may be deteriorated.

Fill/vent hose may be the perp
 

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Did you pull the distributor cap and check for water in it? Also check the front and rear diff and tcase and tranny for a milkshake
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Yeah it was running fine. Until we got up out of the water. The engine never really got wet on this hole. I had enough momentum to get it out quickly. The rear bumper hit and stopped forward progress. I plan on checking everything for water intrusion.
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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I'm guessing there's more water in there then some dry gas can fix?
If u plan making this a regular date a new gas tank may be more appropriate then trying to seal an old one. They aren't very expensive. Just make sure u get new straps too if u go that route.
 

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I'm guessing there's more water in there then some dry gas can fix?
If u plan making this a regular date a new gas tank may be more appropriate then trying to seal an old one. They aren't very expensive. Just make sure u get new straps too if u go that route.
might as well replace the fuel pump or at least the sock on the end of the pickup
 

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Discussion Starter #7
My thinking is since the filler was submerged for about 45 minutes that is how it got in. When I got it out and it wouldn't start I opened the gas cap and it had built up a lot of pressure. I will check everything I can from the top but really don't want to drop the tank if I can help it. Old truck lived most of it's life on a barrier island in Florida. Probably not easy to get the skid plate bolts out. I am not planning on what needs to be replaced until I get it opened up. Also not ruling anything out. I plan on going back out since I am planning on buying a lot and building a camp in the area. It is a big area of private property you have to own land to get into. So I might be crossing water somewhat frequently.
 

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I think trying to do it without dropping the tank is like shooting yourself in the foot especially if it needs sealing to prevent this. If your only hesitation to dropping it is the skid plate bolts u could try this
image_15af0cca114534.jpg

Really good at breaking off rusty bolts from what I hear. Better then pb blaster. Or u could slather them in some naval jelly.
 

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If your going to be water fording you have a major chore ahead of you. Breather tubes need extended, electrical connections need water proofed etc. first i would check that the fuel pump is running with the key on, this ensures the pcm is working. Then id test for spark. If spark is present then id connect a hose to the service port and collect some fuel in a cup and check the flammability of the fuel or pull the fuel filter off And turn the key on and collect some fuel in a cup. Let the cup sit. If there is a ton of water in it the water will separate from the fuel. Pour some out on the ground, If it burns than i doubt theres much water in the fuel.
 

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My thinking is since the filler was submerged for about 45 minutes that is how it got in. When I got it out and it wouldn't start I opened the gas cap and it had built up a lot of pressure. I will check everything I can from the top but really don't want to drop the tank if I can help it. Old truck lived most of it's life on a barrier island in Florida. Probably not easy to get the skid plate bolts out. I am not planning on what needs to be replaced until I get it opened up. Also not ruling anything out. I plan on going back out since I am planning on buying a lot and building a camp in the area. It is a big area of private property you have to own land to get into. So I might be crossing water somewhat frequently.
Think about what you just said, if you had pressure in the tank, water couldn't get into the tank, start looking for some other reason it won't start.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
I have spark checked that right away. When i took the cover off the port and push the plunger down on the schrader valve what comes out is water. When turning the key on you can hear the fuel pump prime just like always. I pulled the tube from the air intake and sprayed some starter fluid in and it tries to start but wont . Didn't feel like being out in the heat today so didn't mess with it but tomorrow after work I am going to start with the filter and see what I get. The pressure thing doesn't make sense but it has water at the fuel rail.

A couple people stopped to see if they could help and all said to check the same things and all came to the same conclusion. It got water in the tank from the filler being under water. Maybe it is the seal around the top where the sender is. I have had it in water that submerged the tires before and not had a problem so don't think it is just a hole in the tank. This is the first time I ever sat in something this deep. I was almost the whole way through when the back bumper dug in and stopped progress. I have crossed other holes out there and have had water go up over the hood on the entrance to a hole then made a wake and crossed with no problem. This one just had a steep exit. When we went to pull it out I tried to hook up to the rear first and couldn't get to the hook in the hitch because it was buried.

I don't think the tank has any holes in it When replacing the fuel pump people recommend the access plate instead of dropping the tank. If it turns out I need to drop the tank then I will, just would rather not if I don't have to. Florida summer and laying under the truck if is not fun. If I can access the pump and can get a hose in to siphon out the gas then I will at least try it. Worst case I have to drop the tank. At least the gas will be out making it lighter.

I plan on raising all the breathers and waterproofing the electronics. Will probably replace any rubber lines that hook to the gas tank. I have been wheeling for almost 30 years and been through lots of water crossings and never had any real problems. Now that I have a kid that goes with me don't want to get stranded again with him along. It was a long hot day with no shade. Was showing my buddy the place to see if he would want to go in on a camp. Didn't bother him that we got stuck but it didn't make a good impression on his wife. She wasn't with us at least.
 

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Just thinking out loud here but... If u think the tank is solid and not leaking anywhere, what about the filler tube neck (or it's connections)? A small leak or perforation may not be noticable when filling with gas because it goes in so fast, but sitting bogged in water might let it seep in?
 

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Should be able to get a hose in there, siphon it as empty as you can, pull the filter off hopefully the water up to the fuel rail will drain. Reconnect all lines with new filter. Fill tank with gas and see if she will crank
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Talked to the mechanic by me at work. He said to try pulling the filter and using a pump to get the gas out. Maybe can try pumping from both ends and get it to pull from the fuel rail also. Gonna let the sun go down a bit then see what is what. Fingers crossed.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Here is a sample of the gas coming out of the fuel line. I got most of the water out. I changed the filter and am charging the battery now. Will now in about half an hour if it is fixed. Going to add some dry gas and run this gas out as fast as possible. Put in 5 gallons run that through then change filter again. Will update shortly
165637
 

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Here is a sample of the gas coming out of the fuel line. I got most of the water out. I changed the filter and am charging the battery now. Will now in about half an hour if it is fixed. Going to add some dry gas and run this gas out as fast as possible. Put in 5 gallons run that through then change filter again. Will update shortly View attachment 165637
😮😮😮
 

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might I suggest something like this if you plan on any more similar escapades in the near future?


There are some filters with automatic water drain, granted not sure how well that would work if you have the bottom of the truck under water....may require some ingenuity in mounting location...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
might I suggest something like this if you plan on any more similar escapades in the near future?


There are some filters with automatic water drain, granted not sure how well that would work if you have the bottom of the truck under water....may require some ingenuity in mounting location...
I am planning on adding something like that in the engine bay. I plan to add a snorkel and run all the vents from diffs,trans., and transfer case up to above the hood level. Going to swap out to electric fans. Going to work on waterproofing the electricals as well. May make something I can just bolt on to raise the exhaust for when the water is deep. Smart thing to do would be stay out of deep water, but wheeling in Florida means water. Some places deeper than others.
Got to pay to play.
 

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I am planning on adding something like that in the engine bay. I plan to add a snorkel and run all the vents from diffs,trans., and transfer case up to above the hood level. Going to swap out to electric fans. Going to work on waterproofing the electricals as well. May make something I can just bolt on to raise the exhaust for when the water is deep. Smart thing to do would be stay out of deep water, but wheeling in Florida means water. Some places deeper than others.
Got to pay to play.
I know the feelin man, I'm in louisiana, same thing with water everywhere. I've used the MSD marine (they discontinued the potted offroad line) ignition equipment as it is potted and waterproof and you can install a rev limiter so that is one less thing you have to pay attention to as much (I have my 513 limited to 6500). def check your tank for leaks, if it checks out, I would look into adding a taller vent on that, and retrofitting a gas cap that seals up completely.

I don't know what motor you are running, but you should run some numbers on it's air requirements and compare them to what flow you can get through piping. I cannot run a snorkel on mine or else it would choke the motor out, cannot get enough air flow in my upper RPM range.

other thing I have seen some folks do is to add some positive pressure to their crank case, may require replacing all seals however
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Finally got it running. Pumped 10 gallons of gas out. I disconnected the filter inlet side and just kept turning the key on and off until it was below a quarter tank. I then took a sample of the gas and didn't find any water. Pulled the injectors on the drivers side and they all squirted good and the same so hooked everything back up and it started. Now I need to check the fluids in everything but at least it is running.
 
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