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I kinda wanna plant sod on it.

But seriously, I think if I lay a putting green on the flatbed that I could get someone who really likes to practice their short game to buy it.
how much sod would it take to get the truck to be carbon neutral? hmmm...

 

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Discussion Starter #62
how much sod would it take to get the truck to be carbon neutral? hmmm...
I think at this point you'd have to cover it in sod and then park it in a forest and let it sit for a thousand years to get it back to neutral.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
I've been super busy, aka working a lot, so things have been slow on all of my projects. I haven't gotten any further on things on this one, but here are a few pics of some things.

Here is the bench seat sitting on the flatbed (with kick panel covers sitting on it). Overall it's in pretty decent shape for a 40+ year old OE seat and has the typical wear on the driver's side. I'm going to try to clean it up a bit and then I have a Mexican blanket style seat cover to go on it to pretty it up.





Here is the nearly mint blue headliner I pulled from the JY the other day. I'm almost disappointed it isn't white so I can stick it in the Bronco. I had considered just upholstering it and putting it in the Bronco, but since I can upholster any old headliner for that purpose, I'll just go find another one in decent shape and do just that. Or make one from scratch which might even be better.





Here's the vinyl flooring sitting in the cab. You can see the extra length on the passenger side sticking up and the rear folding forward. I'm going to make some cuts on the front side and pull it up as far as I can before trimming the rear, if I trim it at all. I figure the less I can see under the dash the better. I also liked the card they stapled to it, just in case you're an idiot and don't know the textured, somewhat contoured to the floorboard under the dash side goes up and faces the front.






Here's my little project I started on the hood. I still need to take it down a bit more in the spot I worked on for a short while, but you get the idea. Hitting it with the wet scotch brite takes off the newer rust and shows the older, deeper red rust. To me it makes it look more like an old, well used truck than just something that's been rusting away in a field... like it was. Hopefully the rest of the rusty areas will turn out well. The doors are "brightly" rusted, so knocking the rust down a bit will make it not so in your face "hey I'm rusty over here". After that I think I'll try buffing the good paint and see what that leaves me. If I was gonna keep it I'd probably do something similar to what @cobrajoe suggested and I'd take the bad areas down to metal and prime it all one color and redo the bed in black and put some fresh wood on it. But I'm not keeping it, so that's not being done!



 

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They call me "MR FLAT TIRE"
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Aaaaand... the dealer script on the fender has North Dakota on it.
whats the name? just curious being my neck of the woods...um...plains.
 

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Discussion Starter #65
whats the name? just curious being my neck of the woods...um...plains.

If I zoom in on this pic it says "Gregory Ford Lincoln Mercury. Cavalier, N. Dak."


 

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ok...way up in the NE corner of the state near Canada. 250 miles or so away. Sure is a popular thing to do out here ... put those dealer stickers on.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
ok...way up in the NE corner of the state near Canada. 250 miles or so away. Sure is a popular thing to do out here ... put those dealer stickers on.
It may not be the original dealership it was sold at. I'm sure it could have been added later on in the trucks life if it was sold used at a dealer later on. It just happens to be fairly close to the DSO it was ordered from compared to where it is now. I know a lot of the old cars and trucks I see, especially in the 60's since I don't see much older than that in original condition these days, have metallic dealership emblems screwed onto them. I know the old '65 Coronet 440 I owned about 12 years ago or so had one on it's backside that I left on. Man that was a neat car, kinda wish I still had it, but then I think about all the problems that were surfacing and I don't regret letting it go at all. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #68
So this project has been put on hold, like most of my projects lately. I've been firing it up every once in a while and letting it run for 10-15 minutes or so. I've noticed it doesn't like to fire easily after it sits a day. I'm not sure if that's because I don't have a lot of gas in the tank or if fuel is running out of the line and back into the tank or.. something else. I can drop a little gas into the carb and it fires right up and idles perfectly, but if I try to cold start it without doing that it'll just turn over without so much as a sputter. Odd. Other than that it runs fine.

I'm only comparing its operation to my other trucks and my F100 will fire up just fine even after a couple weeks of non-use with a few pedal pumps prior to turning the key. My Bronco would fire up just fine within a few days with the 750 Edebrock it used to have, but after that it'd need a lot of turning over to get it to fire as well. I'm just guessing that the 2100 the F100 has is the bee's knees or something. Who knows.

The front right tire finally gave out on me after I had been airing it up every week or two. It ripped out the sidewall. I had initially hoped to offload the truck with the tires that were on it, but that isn't going to be the case as they're all pretty dry rotted. I fortunately had a couple of gift cards (bday and work) I had forgotten about to Walmart and I bought a set of 235/75r15 Goodyear Wranglers for $154 after tax while they were on sale for $54 a piece, which will do just nicely. I still have yet to go pick them up and have them mounted. I'll have to remove the wheels off the truck and take them in to have it done as I'm not going to drive it in the way it is. The tires that are on the truck are 31's, but I think the 235's (29's) will do just fine as that's closer to the stock size from the 70's and with the 2.75 rear gear ratio the truck has it'll benefit with a little more oomph.

I may just use this truck for side jobs in the coming summer (taking stuff to the dump, etc.), but for now it's a storage vehicle for all my other truck parts while I slowly get it into proper shape. Eventually it'll get sold one way or another. Maybe the market on these 73-79 trucks will explode like the early broncos (yeah right) and I can sell it for bookoo bucks as my Vietnam Vet dad would say.
 

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Enjoyed the read, thanks!
 
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Discussion Starter #70
I've decided to start fixing some more stuff on this truck. I figure I'm gonna get some use out of the thing before selling it, so I'm not too worried about spending a little more to fix what I want.

I fixed a vac leak I had under the hood. The vac canister for the climate controls had a nipple busted off. I was able to super glue the nipple back on to the canister, so that should get my vac motors behind the dash working again.

I verified that the a/c clutch works when you turn on the a/c, which is good. The blower motor doesn't turn on, but I need to clean out everything of debris before getting the fan working anyway.

I've got supplies for an oil change, just need to wait for a day that's not so poopy out. I'm just going with a conventional 10w30.

I'm going to order up some weatherstripping for the doors. I don't need the full set, but the window scrapers and the runs that goes along the windows are all brittle and half gone. Rockauto has them for about $80 shipped I believe.

I'm going to dig out my little harbor freight wannabe-dremel and have it waiting for me for this weekend, so I can modify my new cab lights and finally mount them.

And depending on how I feel about it a little later this year I may try to spruce up the flatbed. I'd like to at least repaint it black. I may redo the wood as well. I had thought about having some diamond plate put in to replace the floor, but I think I like having wood on the floor as it'd make it very very simple to access everything under the bed if I ever needed to.

Anyone have any suggestions on wood for the bed? Right now I think the PO just put in some plywood, but I'm curious about putting in some planks instead and then staining them. I'll probably change my mind on that later. Might be more than I'm willing to put into it in reality. Sounds nice though.
 

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Anyone have any suggestions on wood for the bed?
I've seen a lot of commercial trucks use unfinished mahogany, but that gets splintery in the weather. It doesn't seem to rot, but it's easy to get splinters under your nails when trying to lift stuff off of it.

I've seen finished white oak used, & it looked great. I think that it would need periodic refinishing.

Teak is the outdoor champion out of what we've used. Our cabinet guys build unfinished outdoor cabinet doors with it. They struggle to glue it, & it does not take a finish well, because it is naturally oily. But that oiliness even unfinished does well in the weather. It will gray after time in the sun.
 

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Discussion Starter #72
I've seen a lot of commercial trucks use unfinished mahogany, but that gets splintery in the weather. It doesn't seem to rot, but it's easy to get splinters under your nails when trying to lift stuff off of it.

I've seen finished white oak used, & it looked great. I would think it that need periodic refinishing.

Teak is the outdoor champion out of what we've used. Our cabinet guys build unfinished outdoor cabinet doors with it. They struggle to glue it, & it does not take a finish well, because it is naturally oily. But that oiliness even unfinished does well in the weather. It will gray after time in the sun.
Oh boy, sounds like it may be an expensive endeavor if I go that route. I gotta admit though, a nicely planked flatbed looks great. It's part of why the old 53-56 F100s are my favorite Fords.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
My vacuum canister fix apparently didn't last, the nipple snapped right off again. Guess I'll have to step up from super glue to jb weld. At least that's what I have on hand and I know for sure that'd hold it on. lol

My weatherstripping should be here by on Monday per the tracking info, so I'll remove the old weatherstripping this weekend to have it ready for a quick install.

I removed the old battery cables and I'm going to take them in to Napa in the morning and have some new ones made. I'll probably go with 2 gauge like I have on my Bronco as the cables on the truck now look like 6 gauge. I still need to remove the starter cable. It's only attached at the starter right now, but with the headers this truck has it's a pretty tight fit. I was trying to get it done before heading into work, but ran out of time.

I can't tell for sure, but the starter may be a PMGR starter. It's hard to tell at a glance from above the engine as they installed a heat shield around the starter. I'm not sure the shield was necessary as there seems to be a lot of room for airflow, just not a very easy angle for my hand and wrist to bend with a wrench in hand.

If things go my way I'll have a very busy morning after work.
 

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I've seen a lot of commercial trucks use unfinished mahogany, but that gets splintery in the weather. It doesn't seem to rot, but it's easy to get splinters under your nails when trying to lift stuff off of it.

I've seen finished white oak used, & it looked great. I would think it that need periodic refinishing.

Teak is the outdoor champion out of what we've used. Our cabinet guys build unfinished outdoor cabinet doors with it. They struggle to glue it, & it does not take a finish well, because it is naturally oily. But that oiliness even unfinished does well in the weather. It will gray after time in the sun.
Teak for the win! You could also look at Sapele. It's a sustainable African hardwood. Similar looking to teak, not quite as oily and a larger grain structure, but (relatively) cheaper. It's used a lot in boat building today.

Sapele ages beautifully as well. Used some scraps about 10 years ago to face a bench and cabinets in my basement. Albeit indoors, but it's developed a deep, rich amber/brown patina.

Don't forget Cypress. It will hold up a little better than White Oak in the elements and be a whole lot lighter to boot.
 
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Discussion Starter #75
I got my cables made and installed. It took most of the day to get the cables. I went to Napa with the old cables and talked with a guy there about what I wanted. He went about grabbing everything he needed then realized he didn't have everything in stock after he cut the cables to length, so I had to wait for another store to send the other pieces needed (lugs, terminals). I picked them up fully completed at about 4pm.

I got a new battery charger the other day to help maintain the batteries on my infrequently used vehicles as I didn't have one and I don't want to drastically shorten the life on those batteries. It took about a half day to charge my Bronco's Yellowtop and another half day or so to charge the super cheap lead-acid battery in the flatbed truck. I got the Optima Digital 400 and it seems to work really well, I like it a lot so far. I threw my F100's battery on it now and I'll eventually do my wife's car as well. Why not.

Boy does a fully charged battery and nice fat cables make a difference on this flatbed truck, though. I had to literally pour gas down the carb every time I wanted to start the truck when cold, because the fuel pump wouldn't spin fast enough when cranking to draw fuel up to the carb. It took 3 decent cranks without any gas down the carb and it fired right up, which may not be perfect, but it's way better than what it was doing before. I may have to swap pumps and see if that improves anything, I have a couple spares from other engines.








Here are the old and new cables laid out in front of the truck before I installed them. I had the new cables made with proper colors for positive and negative as the old cables were red for both positive and negative with the starter cable being black. The starter cable was 4 gauge and the battery cables were 6 gauge. The PO had added an extra ground wire from a much smaller gauge that went from a mounting bolt on the starter solenoid down to the block where the negative battery cable was hooked up.

I had the guy make all the new cables with 2 gauge and I also had him remake that extra ground wire in a slightly larger gauge than it was and I had him crimp it into the lug for the negative battery cable, so it'd all be one piece. I figured that'd clean it up a little. And believe it or not I was able to hook up every wire from the top of the engine bay. The passenger side header had a large enough gap between the second and third primaries for me to squeeze my hand in and, very slowly, manage to hook up the wire onto the starter.
 

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Fat bottomed cables
You make the rockin' moto go round

LOL... Earworm - damn you Doosenberry, I'm going to be humming that song all night long now!
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Uh.. you're welcome? lol

I was going to go lay outside under a vehicle or two today and work on some things, but I woke up to snow coming down and about 2-3 inches of snow on the street. I wish the weather would make up it's mind. It was perfectly clear and dry when I put the cables on as you can see from the pic of them laying on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
I guess my problem with starting the truck was just a matter of the fuel tank being too low, which I guess I'm not used to. As long as it has roughly 5 gallons in the tank it seems to be fine and cranks on the first try. I can take my other rigs down to the last drop and they'll still start up quickly.

I changed the oil after running several ounces of seafoam in the crankcase while the engine idled up to temp. I didn't want to put too much in for too long. Then I filled it up with some 10w30 and put on a Motocraft filter. I then dumped the rest of the seafoam into the gas tank, which may or may not have been a brilliant idea, but hey... that fuel filler was askin' for it.

Then after 5-10 minutes of idling after the oil change I developed a steady, loud misfire on the passenger side engine bank and I know that because the truck has a true dual exhaust setup and it's only coming out of that pipe. That and you can audibly hear it under the hood on that side of the engine. Effin' ooopsy on that one. I figured maybe it was all of the seafoam I stuck in there, so I diluted it with a few more gallons of gas and it seems to have cleared up for the most part. It's either that or the fresh oil is leaking into the cylinders significantly more than the old oil that was in there.

Putting new valve seals is on my list of things to do, but it'll be a while before I get to that. I'm still waiting for the weather to warm up before I really commit to spending a lot of time outside working on it and being that it's barely past midway January, that's gonna be a while!
 

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Gotta love the new forum.....yet another of my sub'd threads that I got zero notification on.
 

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Discussion Starter #80
Gotta love the new forum.....yet another of my sub'd threads that I got zero notification on.
Well you're not missing much, Joe. lol At least not when it comes to what I'm doin'.
 
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