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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)
Ugh. Strictly a venting post. No progress so feel free to ignore. The LOWER radius arm bolts are kicking my ass. I PB’d, I tried my breaker bar which clearly isn’t big enough (even with a 3 ft pipe attached it looked like it would bust in half) and I bought a mapp torch, but I’ve never used one before and was pretty nervous to try and stick that bad boy in there after I’d sprayed all sorts of God knows what In there to loosen it up. That and there’s not a lot of room to work inside that I beam with the shaft, etc. I was feeling pretty positive about the trying to use the torch until that point. Then my “1K lb” impact wrench didn’t budge it either.

Oh and the passenger side shaft popped out of the rubber boot while I was trying to move each side into position to get to the bolts. No idea if that’s a big deal or not.

SO, I’ll probably try to pick up a big 36” 3/4 breaker bar and hope to God it’ll bust those things.

Rant over.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I am the greatest garage mechanic THAT HAS EVER LIVED! RA bolts removed! Got a little bit of heat on them (20 seconds or so each) and the drivers side took a breaker bar/cheater bar then the impact, then the passenger came off with the impact. Ordered my redhead steering gearbox to install my drop pitman arm onto.

If anyone reads this and has done this job, my instructions state to torque the new RA's down onto the beams at this time. It seems wise to leave them loose for now until I get both the front/rear RA's up and in their positions, plus the TTB axle pivots back into their brackets, then torque everything?

Old Radius Arm laughing at me:
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Old vs. New (Dear baby Jesus, may I have measured correctly when I moved the RA brackets back 15 inches)
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I broke this....shaft on the passenger side popped out of the boot while I was struggling with the bolts. I noticed it looks like my boot was missing a clamp on one end. Checked LMC and JBG and did not see them but assuming I can just replace with a regular old clamp when I get them back together. Hoping there isn't too much struggle getting everything back together here.
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Had to get a team photo:
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Discussion Starter #24
Got some stuff done today! Had a buddy come over so we did some of the heavy lifting on the suspension install, plus some extra.

First, we installed the new Borgeson shaft and redhead steering gearbox. I wish I’d taken more pics but with him helping I didn’t want to stop the mojo.

Here’s some before/after pics tho...

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I do want to add that I used the tutorial from @realfloopyguy and he’s a scholar and a gentleman for creating that. I followed his instructions and also thought to myself that I could make money writing quality instructions for parts manufacturers.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
THEN we got a little bit further on the suspension. Radius arms are (temporarily) installed and we even managed to get a pivot bolt in there. It took some ratchet straps, some heavy pulling and a couple pry bars but it’s in there.

One RA needs a replacement spacer so there’s more work to do, and we broke the u-joint on the driveshaft in the process. I’ll have to see what’s involved in that replacement. Otherwise a success.

Again no during pics but a couple afters (with a lot of work still to be accomplished).....

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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How hard was the shaft and box? I’m wanting to buy those and do them soon. Also, where is this “tutorial” you speak of


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Discussion Starter #27
My bad man, I was typing on my phone and pasting the link was too much for my brain to handle. Here is the link to the Borgeson install. I don't recall what year his was, but I followed his 11" rule and ended up cutting about 11.25" off of the hollow shaft. If you use his tutorial as you go along it will make sense. I really just needed to have it in front of me to understand. Here is the link:


As far as the box, I left the pitman arm on the old one when I sent it back in the mail this morning (core return), along with the ever important nut (hence my post in the noobie section about where to find a replacement....ordered it from the dealer. My Skyjacker kit did not come with a nut, I should have read the directions closer. Here's the thread about the nut:


Other than that, it was really simple. Both the shaft and the box took maybe a couple hours, and that was with two people who have never done it before, YouTubing, all that. Especially since I already had the rest of my steering linkage off for the suspension install. I wish I could tell you they fixed my steering issues, but the truck is still on jack stands for now.
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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My bad man, I was typing on my phone and pasting the link was too much for my brain to handle. Here is the link to the Borgeson install. I don't recall what year his was, but I followed his 11" rule and ended up cutting about 11.25" off of the hollow shaft. If you use his tutorial as you go along it will make sense. I really just needed to have it in front of me to understand. Here is the link:


As far as the box, I left the pitman arm on the old one when I sent it back in the mail this morning (core return), along with the ever important nut (hence my post in the noobie section about where to find a replacement....ordered it from the dealer. My Skyjacker kit did not come with a nut, I should have read the directions closer. Here's the thread about the nut:


Other than that, it was really simple. Both the shaft and the box took maybe a couple hours, and that was with two people who have never done it before, YouTubing, all that. Especially since I already had the rest of my steering linkage off for the suspension install. I wish I could tell you they fixed my steering issues, but the truck is still on jack stands for now.
Thanks dude!!


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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
More of a picture dump this go round since any (lack) of progress I’ve made has been documented in a couple other sections. I’ll tag them here.

First, tried to make progress on the suspension install, which is really starting to get frustrating. I’ve been at it for too long and then to hit a snag was pretty defeating, even if it ends up not being a big deal, I’m pretty particular so this spring not sitting quite right was a real bummer.


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Discussion Starter #31
Next I replaced my u-joints in the front driveshaft. That went pretty well considering. There’s a link to that fiasco below.


Big takeaway was that when I got it back up into position (with new drop brackets installed) the driveshaft rubs the POs long tube exhaust. I was replacing the exhaust anyway at some point but hadn’t planned on not being able to drive it without removing the headers or some serious grinder action on that portion of the exhaust.
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Discussion Starter #33
Honestly as far as the suspension install, if I’d had another adult around for a lot of the heavy lifting, etc, it wouldn’t have been AS bad. The rivets sucked. The Radius arms sucked. Honestly the jury is still out. It was a lot of learning!

It’s been on jack stands since we got it just working just one or two things at a time. A lot of it having nothing to do with the suspension install, so I’m tired. Two steps forward one step back.

Need to get the steering components hooked back up (replaced them all) and I think I’ve decided to re-attach the antisway bar since it’ll just be a cruiser. Then onto the rear! I just pray it takes an alignment!
 
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