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half doors/ hinge pins for removable doors

67150 Views 64 Replies 30 Participants Last post by  reptillikus
So i since finally found the time to finish one of my half doors, i decided id throw up some pics. The other door isnt done yet, but obviously its gonna look the same.

First things first, ya gotta have a way to remove the doors, so i took both my hinges and my spare hinges and chopped the pins in half

For those pre-92 guys, these are the two connectors behind the kick panel you unplug to remove the door w/o cutting any wires

The upper plug is the power for the windows/locks & the smaller is power for the speaker. On the driver side, the connectors look the same but the green one is gray.

Then i got some 3/8*4½ bolts, cut most of the threads off em, and drilled a small hole in the end for a pin:

The shoulder on the 3/8" bolts dont fit the brass bushings on the hinges, so i drilled them out a bit to clear, and then put a set of hinges together to try em out:

Then i reinstaled my original doors with the new pins

the reason i pinned both sets of hinges is so that i can leave the original A-pillar side half of the hinge bolted to the truck, and leave the original door-side half of the hinge bolted to the doors, this way i can align the doors once, and when i swap betwen doors theyll already be aligned and i wont have to mess with the bolts getting em adjusted properly.

So now you can remove your doors any time you want!

For some of you this might be all you need. But in the NE, whether you like it or not youre getting muddy, even on the rockiest of trails. So i needed a way to increase visibility, yet still keep as much mud as possible out of the inside of the truck. So that means half doors!

So ya start by taking your spare doors, and stripping them down

Next is to draw a line, and start cutting! i used a sheet metal bit in the air hammer to get a nice straight (sorta) cut.

The top of the door is cut at the body line where the door bends in for the window. The lower cut is directly below the hole for the doorlock, so i didnt have to mess with filling that hole. its just an inch or two taller than the lower portion of the seat, which should work great for keeping mud off the seat while driving.

Half-finished door mocked up, hinges not aligned

Ok, so this is where it gets hard. Or atleast i thought so, since ive never worked with sheetmetal before.
Anyways, after much confusion and carboard cutouts, we came up with a way to close the door in using three pieces of steel (used 16ga since it seems to be the same the door was made out of). One will be a flat part to close the top where you arm is, and bend down towards the inside. the second will be a flat piece screwed on the back to serve as an access panel, and the third part will be a strange combination of bends to close in the 'peak' of the door. Unfortunately i didnt think to get any pics of each piece before they were attached to the door, so these will have to suffice:

this one looks like its bent, but its just the angle of the pic:

After a shitload of welding and grinding, you end up with this:

The front lip was recesed to allow it to be ground flush after welding. The plan was that once the door was done youd never know it was welded there. So after the grinding was done, i took some bondo and went over the seams to try and smooth em out & hide em. Well, i guess i picked the worst possible time (100º + very humid) to learn how to use bondo, and ended up doing it a couple times :toothless In the end i was able to get a half-way decent layer down and then sanded it smooth with a DA. I snapped a pic of it but didnt notice at the time that the lense fogged up when i brought the camera ouside. Told ya it was hot!

next up i needed a way to open the door, so i took the original linkage for the lock and shortened it up a bit:

Getting painted:

The finished product:

here is where the linkage for the door passes thru the door. it is connected (IIRC) to where the inner door handle originally connected.

To open the door you just press down on it, and it pops open :thumbup

Long term, i plan on adding a set of mirrors for street driving, and 6" marine speakers to the door so i have tunes. Now i just gotta make the other door :toothless
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Thanks Mark :thumbup

I have a shot of the half door's hinge when i first put it on the truck

The black half of the hinge is my original door hinge, the red half is the half that belonged to the truck the (half) doors came from. Since im not unbolting the hinge from anywhere anymore, i dont need to re-align them whenever i swap doors.

Bronco4Life said:
Some day, when my truck grows up, it will get half doors. This will be my only reference, so if I screw it up, it's your fault :goodfinge

Bronco4Life said:
Where ya going wheeling at the end of august? If it's open to anyone, I might tag along.
Rausch Creek, gonna go hit up the new section that just opened up. Hopefully some big rocks over there, but no one really knows yet.
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Those look great! Think about this though, No need to realign even once. I was able to drill the hinge pins out from the bottom without removing the hinges.
True, you normally dont, and i didnt have to re-align the hinges on my original (full) doors. But now that im mixing & matching parts from two seperate hinges, plus a totally different (half) door, ill have to align the halfdoors the first time i put em on, but i wont ever again after that :cool:
Ill get a pic of the inner handle mechanism once i reach that stage on the second door, but its really just that one straight link. Very simple.

I originally considered leaving the upper frame, but once you remove the felt for the glass you end up with an opening almost an inch wide, all the way around the frame, which IMO needs to be sealed otherwise rain/mud etc would find its way into the door. And that would be a TON of welding to do, way more than id ever want to do to a door thats only going to get smashed on rocks anyways.
Just thought I'd share my pics of my driver side hinge pins. Thanks for all the info!


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Made some progess on the other door, so i thought id throw up some pics, show ya how theyre getting built.

Heres the first panel bent up and temporarily attached to the door via Wedgelocks. For those that dont know, they are a tool used to attach panels to airplanes prior to their final mounting. You drill a hole thru both pieces and then stick this thing into it, which holds the two together. Then, in the case of the aircraft, you remove it and replace with a rivit, but in my case, theyre getting removed and the holes filled with weld. But anyways, they make aligning the panels alot easier. But enough yacking, onto the pics!

Here is the second piece bent up & mounted

...and for Joes93Bronco, heres how the mechanism works.
this is a pic of the latch mechanism inside the door:

...and this is where my new straightened rod connects

That is the original place where the inner door handle connected, which means that even if you were to accidentally lock the latch via one of the other two mechanisms, the door will still open by pushing down on the button.

Right now the door is mostly welded; i just need to finish it and do some grinding so i can bondo & paint. Im shooting to have it done for next weekend so i can bring them wheeling with me. So if all goes well, ill have pics of the finished product mounted on the truck next week :thumbup
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Thanx man.

how did you make your bends in the sheetmetal? do you have a break?
Joes93Bronco said:
how did you make your bends in the sheetmetal? do you have a break?
reptillikus said:

That greeen thing in the background looks like a brake
Yep, thats it. It will fit a piece ~4', up to ~1/8" thick. Comes in handy for situations like these :thumbup In that pic its still set up to bend the top piece, which i might add, is a major PITA to make since due to the design, none of those bends can be completed in the brake w/o interfering with another bend, so they had to be started to get a straight line, and then finished the old fashoined way (hammer & block).

And since im already posting.....the door is done being welded, and i even managed to grind and bondo it (just finished up a little bit ago) so i should have enough time to properly finish the door before the weekend trip :cool:
what are you welding it with? i had a hell of a time not burning thru on mine with 025 wire, gas mix, and slowest speed/heat settings on my HH 175. Looks like someone sneezed over most of it.
Its all tig. Got a 220v Lincoln. I couldnt imagine trying to do it with a Mig, im not nearly good enough with a Mig to weld sheetmetal.
hmm, that makes two of us. Wish I had a tig now, and the smarts to use one.
Dont feel bad, i do not have the coordination to be a good tig welder :toothless

Doors are done! (sorta) i could make em cleaner if i rebondo & sand, but i wanna go wheelin with em this weekend so fawk it :toothless

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As an aside, there are hinge pin and bushing kits available most commonly used to replace the hinge pins on Mustang doors. The new pins are slide in cotter style like what was made above. The pins and the busings are now available separately from the guys that make the "Help!" parts sold by many parts stores, I've seen them turn up over the past year. I'm not certain these will fit the truck hinges, but the odds are decent they will -- I may try to find out when I put my doors on the Tronco, since I've got spares from having to do the Mustang doors several times. If they interchange, it gives you new bushings, and saves you the trouble of drilling a bolt to serve as your pin.
Here is what i got off ebay:

way cheaper then any parts house here, even after shipping. Kragen has em in the "Help!" section for 6 bucks APIECE!! :shocked

The clips shouldnt be any harder to get off then a pin (i hope) and easily replacable also. had em a while just havent gotten around to it.

the store on ebay was Florida Auto Fasteners.
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I bought the same thing Joes93. I didn't do anything to them I just slipped them in. The bottom is already tapered and it slides right in. I don't use the clips and I don't have any problems. I love these things.
Yeah, i considered just ordering new pins, but why bother when i already had bolts? :toothless Plus id think youd have to grind off the splines otherwise once you hammer the pins in theyll never come out again.

Regardless, i got to use em this weekend (the added visibility is awesome), and its not that bad swappin between doors (i trailered it out there w/ the full doors). Its def a two-man operation though.
hey for the 92 and up trucks what will i have to do with my wires????
Theres no connectors behind the kickpanel like there are on the older trucks, so youll have to cut all the wires & splice in some.
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