[86ThreeOhTwo]

31 10 18 31 51 54 53 63 KOEO
8 10 21 41 31 34 13 77 25 KOER

It will sit there and crank over for 30 seconds or mor then sputter once and slowly fire up. I know a few of those codes are EGR which is capped off and plugged off and the eleminator relay/electronic thing is in the mail.

http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/ I know where to get the codes but I'm not sure where to start. Thanks in advance

 

[JKossarides]

FYI: the number 10 is not a "fault" code it's a seperator number between fault codes...unless your testing cylinders IIRC.

"eleminator relay/electronic thing is in the mail"..............................?

Maybe it's time to put all the correct components back on so it will run right.....EGR stuff is a good start.....

Haynes Repair Manual and www.broncolinks.com are excellent DIY sources...it might help if you listed code numbers AND their diagnostic explanations so we don't have to look them up.......:doh0715:


Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[hizootiemizark]

Ive been getting an EGR insufficient flow code. From what Ive found the EGR valve itself is not always the problem. I'm still working on tracking down vac. lines, bad sensors, etc.

 

[JKossarides]

The EGR valve itself has a vaccum line on top and a spring loaded rubber diaphram inside and fairly durable so unless the diaphram has failed inside I'd be looking more to the EVP/EGR sensor mounted on top and see what voltage level it's operating at, Haynes etc. and if necessary then replace it...

If EFI components are missing the vehicle computer is still looking for them possibly causing the vehicle to run poorly so hit the JY for donor parts off a same vintage F150 and get it back together and go from there.

I don't know what your state smog laws are if that's a consideration, visual inspection and so forth.

Just have patience and work thru each fault code one at a time until you get them all resolved and at that point I have to believe the BKO will perform better for you and in the process you've learned how to deal with an EFI system for the future...


Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[86ThreeOhTwo]

The EGR eliminator is a $20 thing that plugs into the egr connector and sends a signal to tell the computer the egr is always closed. Being that I have no need for emmisions and a new egr valve is $70 i decided that would be a good option. Plus maybe the 2hp it adds! :rofl: I'm just curious what any of these codes would have to do with it not starting like it used to. Anywho thanks!

 

[JKossarides]

Just at a glance with those fault codes other EGR etc. I see:

ECT = engine cooling temp sensor usually located in an "octagonal tree" that's threaded into the lower intake manifold between the FI plenum and distributor area along with a lower throttle body cooling tube and hose, ECT is a fuel manager at cold start and normal operation so you may need to back probe for voltage issues. Haynes Manual

IAT = intake air temperature sensor usually located on the drivers side lower intake manifold towards the front .
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor resistance changes in response to the intake air temperature. The sensor resistance decreases as the surrounding air temperature increases. This provides a signal to the PCM, indicating the temperature of the incoming air charge.

The following symptoms can be caused by a faulty IAT sensor due to loose connections, bad grounds, high resistance in the circuit, or opens in the circuit.

Related Symptoms
•Extended crank time when the engine is cold
•Poor fuel economy
•Spark knock


TPS = throttle positon sensor usually located on the bottom of the throttle body is for "blade angle air induction" and voltage driven for setting....so you may have an isssue there, back probe etc.

** There is a Ford Racing Performance Parts "idle setting procedure" Instruction Sheet (Techline (800) FORD788) steps 1-9 on How To adjust idle by disconnecting the IAC using the throttle body idle stop screw, drilling out the mounting screw holes on a newer "plug & play" TPS so you can adjust it for voltage setting.

In the past the ideal setting was thought to be .93-.97 volts or just under 1 volt but recently posted information regarding this appears the setting should be between .55v-.75 volts.

Posted by FSB member Jermil01 recently:

Wanted to update this thread based on some TPS adjustment information I got from one of my tuning sites. This goes against the conventional wisdom of setting the TPS closer to .95 range. Thoughts??

Regarding any ECU controlled function (and idling conditions in particular), before any strategy based adjustment can be made by a computer controlled system, it must first run somewhat normally in a default and OL mode.

To do this with a FORD you must first follow a few rules.

You must keep the TPS input above the deadband area and below the "tip in" area. On a FORD this equates to below approximately 0.9V and above 0.45. Anything above 0.90V the ECU thinks the throttle is starting to open. This brings into affect possible dashpot and fuel cut strategies which can turn one grey real fast. Below approx 0.40-0.45V the system suspects an incorrect input and substitutes a default figure.

So first off, the TPS should be set to around 0.55-0.75V.You can also disconnect the IAC then disconnect the battery for 15-20 minutes, reconnect and the computer should default back to factory settings.

I wouldn't be too concerned about the "knock sensor", it'll keep throwing codes but it is related to timing so check your OEM BTDC and see where it's at.

PIP = profile igntion pickup sensor located on the distributor shaft inside is the term used for the signal sent from the Ford EDIS to the electronic control module (ECM). This signal is the digitally modified signal that originated from the Crank Angle Sensor (CAS) in an alternating current format. The PIP signal into the ECM is a squarewave.......probably a stretch....

spOUT = sprak out put connector usually located above the T-stat below the distribuotr area...it's a 2 wire lead black squarish M/F plug device. The PCM also uses MAP and TP to calculate the spark output signal. The spark output signal controls the timing of the primary of the ignition ...


Oxygen sensor = Rich fuel condition may be the O2 sensor is failing or reaching the end of it's life cycle of approx. 30K miles, consider either the Denso O2, Motorcraft O2 vs the Bosch O2 as the tech explanation describes Bosh has a tendancy to run rich as a rule.


Just a few thoughts!

God Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[86ThreeOhTwo]

I have a whole "new" wiring harness as I'm sure my current harness is not getting the right voltage to everything. I'll replace that the ECT and IAT sensors today and report back. Thanks for the help JKossa! So much knowledge :rockon

 

[miesk5]

yo,
For testing, wiring diagrams, etc...
see my site for;
Intake Air Temp (IAT); (Air Charge Temperature [ACT] prior to 1992) http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=398

Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=918



-- more Wiring Diagrams in an 86 & Ford truck
Source: by Agnem (The Moosestang) at webshots.com
These are diff ro read due to size for non- members of webshots.com, so consider registering there.


Wiring Diagrams (Partial, Bronco similar) for F 150 in 86, 89, 91 & 95; EEC, Start/Ignition, EFI/Fuel System, Emissions, E4OD, AOD/C6 (+ clutch interlock switch), etc. from Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM) & MAP, TPS, ECT, ACT, KS), Start/Ignition, Fuel System, Emissions
Source: by Ford via Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=36
1986 F-150 5.0L pg60
1986 F-150 5.0L pg61
1986 F-150 5.0L pg62
1986 F-150 Ignition pg29
1986 F-150 Fuel System pg103
Compare to Moosetang's for any differences between Bronco & F series.

---
Look Codes up in my broncolinks.com site using the new Search function if in a hurry today
for example;
DTC 31 or 32 Both KOEO & KOER; " EVP sensor out of range EGR is sticking or EVP is bad, see my site's, Emission section; EGR for basic tests, w/hand vac pump, etc." @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=414
Source: by miesk5

DTC 31 "... This code could be caused by several different factors. If the pintle position sensor (Ford calls it the EVP sensor) is shorted or open, you could have a code set. If the EGR valve becomes carboned up and does not seat fully, the EVP sensor gives a high reading and a code is set. If the diaphragm of the EGR valve is bad, then it, too, is flagged..." by Harry G at asashop.org

DTC 31 EGR Valve Position (EVP) Sensor; "...On-Demand codes have been coming up and the voltage on the EVP sensor (EGR valve position sensor that is mounted to the EGR valve) is reading correctly on Fords. The problem seems to be that sometimes the wrong sensors are being installed and are therefore sending the improper voltage signals to the powertrain control module. Ford uses two different EVP sensors: a black and a white (or gray). And both will send a different voltage in the same position. At rest, the black sensor will read .75 to .95 volts and the white (or gray) will read .35 to .45 volts..." read more... by Dan J at asashop.org

 

[JKossarides]

Before you replace any sensors why not test/back probe first and see if they're still good, ECT costs around $36.00 (O'Reillys) and IAT if you can find one in stock around $38.00 (Autozone) or try Neihoff brand some where on the internet...for some reason many mfg's are not making IAT sensors any more.....?

If you're referring to the upper "partial" harness strung across the engine so to speak, in 2008 I swapped in a new 302 EFI long block by myself and I used blue painters masking tape and labled every M/F sensor by name so when I re-connected the harness it was a no brainer where everything went.

Fortunately my 86 harenss was in pretty good condition with few minor spots that needed cleaning and fresh tape.

Let us know how you make out.....


Good Luck ~ :thumbup

 

[JKossarides]

Bump-Dupe!

 

[hizootiemizark]

I had the EGR insuf. flow code after a CEL popped on. I checked vac lines and cleaned out the EGR with some carb cleaner. CEL went away. Going to drive it for a couple weeks the check codes again. Fingers crossed.

 

[86ThreeOhTwo]

I had the EGR insuf. flow code after a CEL popped on. I checked vac lines and cleaned out the EGR with some carb cleaner. CEL went away. Going to drive it for a couple weeks the check codes again. Fingers crossed.

Good luck!

 

[86ThreeOhTwo]

Replaced the harness and injectors last night. Picked up the sensors for on $10 a piece. Replaced them too (ECT and IAT) And now the truck wont start. Checked all my connectors and plgus and they all seem fine. Before i put the harness on i went through the whole thing to make sure it was good with no shorts, frays, etc. The only other thing is that the tach jumps and maxes out on the gauge. It cranks but wont fire. Dont know if its fuel or spark yet.

 

[JKossarides]

I'm still confused on which harness you replaced, fuel injecter or partial harness across in front of the engine there.....I can't say whats causing the tach to jump, PCM = powe rcontrol module, computer...? BUT you'll have to figure that out....www.broncolinks.com

Was the distributor out of the engine and what's timing set at now....?

This assumes the distributor is in the engine so if necessary I would reset the timing old school, #1 plug out, torque wrench, drive and 15/16" socket placed on the crank bolt and with your finger on the #1 plug hole turn the engine by hand until you "feel and hear" a good push of air indicating the #1 pistion is at BTDC the highest point but watch out for cross over where the piston has peaked now traveling downward or you'll have to repeat etc. so an extra pair of hands wouldn't hurt..

Once you're sure the #1 piston is at the correct position, turn the harmonic balancer and set the timing to 0 (zero) on the timing marker, rotate the rotor CCW until it points to the #1 lead on the distributor cap, mine points to 1 o'clock, distributor cap back on check firing order from cap to plugs just to be sure, hopefully it should fire up and then you can reset the timing to OEM 10* BTDC with the spOUT connector unplugged using a timing light.

You could probably turn the harmonic balancer and set the timing on the marker to 10* BTDC as opposed to 0 (zero), just old school.

Don't know whether this will help but now you know how to if you didn't before.....let us know what you find.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup