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Discussion Starter #1
i don't see much (any) info on here about dash cams, so i thought i'd share.

i have an advantage of having a 96 EB with a head console and auto dimming mirror. so, not everyone will be able to do this exactly. however, there's an option to do this slightly differently and i'll discuss that at the end.

first, buy a dash cam.
second, convert the cigarette lighter charger into a hard wired power source
third, wire it in

first you open your cigarette lighter charger
solder off the spring and the ground wire
drill out the circuit board to accept the size wire you're using (i used 18 gauge)
solder the wires in place. note: i'd recommend directing the wire to face the outlet of the charger cover. that will help reduce stress on your solder.
then put the charger back together
i put a 1" cut of heat shrink to help hold the wires together and further reduce stress on the solder.
tape it closed
install









now you're ready to install.
in my truck, i removed the headliner trim over the window, and the A pillar covers.
then i took out the head console.
i popped a couple clips and dropped the wiring down where i could touch it.
i took my continuity tester and determined which wires in my auto dimming mirror was hot and ground.
i used t-tap connectors to tap those.
i added the 2nd piece of the t-tap connectors to my charger

after that, i tucked the charger into the head console in the headliner, with just a little charge wire hanging down.

now, you're pretty much done. just put back everything and you're good to go!







now, if you DON'T have an easy power source right above your rear view mirror. what you'll want to do is buy an add-a-circuit. connect the power wire to the add-a-circuit to a switched fuse in your fuse panel. take the ground wire and just connect it to a screw that's grounded.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
for this application, they'll be fine. if/when i get around to installing a better mirror, i'll have to cut off the OEM harness and splice in a new one. at that point, i'll look at improving the connection. for now, it's sufficient.

also, i did not realize this at the time, but the auto dimming mirror does not work in reverse. so whenever i put the car in reverse, the camera turns off. when it goes into drive, the power comes back on. it's not a big deal, but kinda funny when making 3 point turn backing out of my garage.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It sounds like you picked the reverse wire for your camera ground. When the reverse lights are off, they pass enough current for the camera to work; but when they're on, that wire goes hot, turning the camera off. You should have camera power on the Wh/Pu wire, and camera ground on the Bk wire (not Bk/Pk).
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/848485
thanks for the link, i'll check it out.
 

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Good deal! I've got a full mirror dash cam that fits over my rear view mirror. I have the wiring routed up and around the windshield and down the passenger A pillar. Eventually I'll hard wire it to a key on source, but for now, I have the cigarette lighter adapter hanging out from underneath the dash and have it plugged into the power point whenever I drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I ve been thinking about this. Did you do much research about which is the best dash cam? Pros and cons?
yes, i did. i'm on another forum and this particular cam is very popular. this is the one i bought: G1W-C
http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-C-Capacitor-Dashboard/dp/B00MIO2KRC/

it has a capacitor vs a battery inside it, which is supposed to be more resistant to heat and less likely to burst.

i have also had these in a couple cars. i liked them for their rear camera, although the video quality isn't as good.
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Vision-Camera-Recorder-Detection/dp/B00BTVTA0U

you can read more reviews here
http://dashboardcamerareviews.com/
 

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I have two dashcams. One I hard-mounted into my little beater runabout. The other is portable and sticks to the window in the BKO. Right now I just have the wire dangling down to the lighter socket where I have a simple USB power tap plugged in.

The cams I bought after reading the reviews at

https://dashcamtalk.com/

Mine are

https://dashcamtalk.com/i1000-f70/

in the car and

https://dashcamtalk.com/dod-f500lhd/

in the BKO.

The one in the car has a camera in front and in back.

And unfortunately I actually had to use mine as legal evidence. A company delivery van t-boned me in a construction zone where everyone was going in whatever direction they felt like instead of following the posted signs and markers. I got it all on the cam and turned it over to the lawyer side after the company insurance tried to pass it off as my fault (as they are supposed to do, no offense taken). It only took about 24 hours after the recording was turned over for them to settle the claim. Saved me months of headache and frustration, but I ended up with a sore back for a year and the car was totaled. New car now has the cam installed.

Kaboom --

 
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Discussion Starter #9
I have two dashcams. One I hard-mounted into my little beater runabout. The other is portable and sticks to the window in the BKO. Right now I just have the wire dangling down to the lighter socket where I have a simple USB power tap plugged in.

The cams I bought after reading the reviews at

https://dashcamtalk.com/

Mine are

https://dashcamtalk.com/i1000-f70/

in the car and

https://dashcamtalk.com/dod-f500lhd/

in the BKO.

The one in the car has a camera in front and in back.

And unfortunately I actually had to use mine as legal evidence. A company delivery van t-boned me in a construction zone where everyone was going in whatever direction they felt like instead of following the posted signs and markers. I got it all on the cam and turned it over to the lawyer side after the company insurance tried to pass it off as my fault (as they are supposed to do, no offense taken). It only took about 24 hours after the recording was turned over for them to settle the claim. Saved me months of headache and frustration, but I ended up with a sore back for a year and the car was totaled. New car now has the cam installed.

Kaboom --


that i1000/f70 looks like the one that i had in a couple cars. i really liked that rear camera.
 

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Very interesting. It was the white van in the "turn only" lane that tried to go straight? How could they argue he was right?

In any case, are there any dash cams that record out the side? You know like if I get shot by a cop for a busted turn signal? LOL.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Very interesting. It was the white van in the "turn only" lane that tried to go straight? How could they argue he was right?

In any case, are there any dash cams that record out the side? You know like if I get shot by a cop for a busted turn signal? LOL.
the camera i have now can rotate if i want. so if i get pulled over, you better believe i'll be swiveling that thing over to the driver side window and leaving the ignition on.
 

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Very interesting. It was the white van in the "turn only" lane that tried to go straight? How could they argue he was right?

In any case, are there any dash cams that record out the side? You know like if I get shot by a cop for a busted turn signal? LOL.
It was a messy area to drive in. That intersection had about 20 accidents a day for about a month because people didn't follow the signs. The main problem was that street faced directly into the on ramp to the freeway, so people were using the turn lane to beat the line of cars onto the freeway. You can see the gold SUV blow right through just in front of me. The argument was that he was in the "correct lane" to either turn or get on the freeway, and not in a turn-only lane. The recording stopped that nonsense instantly.

I have seen a few of those cameras that record inside and to the sides. They tend to call them "taxi-cams" because they are usually really low quality. If you want to record like that I'd just get a second small dashcam ( like the https://dashcamtalk.com/smallest-hd-720p/ which is almost thumb-sized) and mount it by the rear view mirror in the windshield to record your side. If you wire it up to turn on with the ignition you can just leave it there and forget about it until you need the recording for something. Just gotta remember that it's recording you, too, so if you flip someone off it will record you.

I check my recordings once a week to make sure things are working right.
 

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I'm running the G1W-C that OP is using. Unfortunately my purchase was one of circumstance after the fact...Still dealing with the BS there, and it is at the point the other driver is suing me, and everything was F'd up from every which way you can think of...bad cop, bad investigators for both sides, and by the time I finally got our former insurance company to talk to my witness (7 months after the fact), and apparently insurance companies also can get away with not trying to talk to witnesses you provide information about as long as they try after you can contacted the insurance commissioner's office..., the best I could pull off was denying the other driver her personal injury claim, so now just waiting to see how much longer til she gets proven to be a fool in court, but I haven't had much issue with the camera. A few times it has decided to stop recording, which may have been a sensor issue since it is designed to save its last recording in case of an accident or rather sudden stop to prevent losing the most important bits, but other wise has been well worth the money. Just don't forget to replace the micro SD card, I am about to finally get around to doing it since I got it a year ago.
 

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I hard wired my dash cam by adding a socket that has two USB connections, then running a usb cable. I prefer solder and heatshrink, not the tap connectors. The other usb cable goes to my phone cradle.
 

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Those ScotchLok taps are among the WORST ways to splice into a wire; not only do they make a poor connection - they also damage the original wire.
Agreed, but it often takes experience to learn that lesson. This afternoon I'm going through some of the wiring I did 15 years ago with those scotchlok connectors. Much of it vibrated loose. It's all getting soldered today.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
updating...

i FINALLY got out there and moved my ground from the black/purple wire to the solid black wire. now when i reverse the dash cam stays on, which is awesome, but weird because i've become completely accustomed to turning off in reverse.
 

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Heya dash! You still keeping up with the latest on the cams? Any good new setups out there on the cheap or are the links from 2015 still the way to go in your opinion?
 
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Looking through the reviews on Amazon, the A119 does look like a good choice, most issues seem to arise with the GPS units and power, and the odd issue here and there that can happen to any system. If you end up deciding to go with the G1W-C, and stray over to eBay instead of Amazon, make sure it is the capacitor version. Just about every listing is handled by Chinese sellers who want to repetitively put the wrong title listing for the model and list capacitor. I had purchased 2 of the battery ones for my parents, and I don't know what the issue is, but they have been having issues with deleting all of the old recordings. They both have later software versions, and tend to be left on, which could be the source, but doubtful. Of course when they sent me sealed packages that were the wrong trim ring (ordered black not chrome) and included the older crappy non-ball swivel suction cup mount (no mirror).

But considering that the A119 can work with 64gb cards, I would go that route for the greater storage, as I run my G1W-C at 720p just so I can get 8 hours of storage in case I don't get around to getting a video off.
 

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Heya dash! You still keeping up with the latest on the cams? Any good new setups out there on the cheap or are the links from 2015 still the way to go in your opinion?
Honestly, i don't keep up with them nor have i ever. I generally decide based on a subjective matrix accounting for the price, claimed specifications, and level of faith in the seller, and willingness to assume risk, which involves another matrix based on the site (ebay vs amazon vs local), condition, item location, and ease of return due to a problem...all of which is to say i make up rules and take a guess.

The camera that i liked best is actually the one i bought first. I haven't found a version of that one that goes up to 1080, though. It only does up to 720. It does, however, work incredibly reliably, continue recording 3 or 5 (i forget) minutes after the car is turned off, and had a second camera to mount facing the rear. I really like the recording after turning off the car. My other two current cams are set to record 3 minutes but neither do. One goes down after 10-15 seconds while the other waits maybe 20-30 seconds.

I've been through several in the last year and a half. I bought a "used" cam off Amazon but it was missing multiple pieces. That was somewhat surprising considering how much luck I've had with amazon warehouse in the past. Another couple took a shit within several months. I even had one or two power sources die on me. I bought another couple that didn't perform as advertised, be it narrow lense camera or slow fps rates listed in the paperwork that doesn't match the listing.

The thing I've seen above all else is just a great variance of quality. Maybe you don't see that on the higher end cameras, i'll likely never know. EBay has them cheaper, but it's more of a crap shoot plus returns are harder. amazon has them for more but returns are easier to settle plus i think the descriptions are more accurate.

Also I think the folks in China just steal each other's designs and try to make a slightly cheaper version. That leaves you with one camera on the outside but what is in it is a mystery.

I've made a really long post now but didn't offer any recommendations. Hopefully it helps but really it's standard global market / online purchasing stuff I'm sure you already know.
 
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