Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So as of a few days ago my '89 Bronco refuses to start from the ignition.
The ignition has no resistance when you turn the key forward, it simply goes all the way forward and nothing happens (in fact you don't even need to insert the key to do so).
All the lights, radio, etc. works as normal.
No loud click, but I hear a quiet click or two, and can hear the fuel pump engage.

However the car starts up fine if I short the solenoid near the battery with a screwdriver.

Will replacing the solenoid fix the problem, or does that indicate a problem further back in the ignition?
Where should I go from here?

Any input is appreciated,
Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
471 Posts
I agree, it would be wise to check your wiring first, it is usually a bad switch wire. You could always have a friend turn the ignition to start while you check the signal wire for voltage at the Solenoid
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
276 Posts
if its a manual tranny, check the clutch pedal switch thing..i've had that problem before
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Could be your actuator rod that runs on top of the steering column and Actuates the ingnition switch. Cheap part that's a P.I.T.A. to change. Heard of people putting in a starter button after several of these cheap a$$ actuator rods breaking.
 

·
Nvr Been Bnnd
Joined
·
8,675,443 Posts
if you dont have any resistence when turning the key then your ignition is probly broke.
 

·
Redneck Romeo
Joined
·
1,810 Posts
Sounds to me like the notorious Upper Ignition Actuator, based on the fact that the key feels like it has no resistance. Or, since you don't have to insert the key to turn the ignition lock, that may be the culprit.

If, after checking your wiring, you still can't find anything wrong, remove your ignition lock cylinder and make sure it's still in one piece. Insert the key, turn the ignition to the 'RUN' position (IIRC), and insert a 1/8" drill bit into the hole just underneath it. You'll have to push the bit in with some force, but you should be able to pull the lock cylinder out. If it still has the "tit" attached (sorry, lacking better words to describe that part), it's not broke.

If the lock cylinder isn't the culprit, I'd bet it's the upper actuator. Run a search for "Ignition Actuator Replacement 85" and you'll find the step-by-step write-up.

Let us know how it turns out, even if it's nothing that's been suggested so far. This will help others with the same/similar problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
There is definitely no resistance in the ignition, so from the responses it sounds like it's the upper ignition actuator.
I have limited tools and time, that sounds like a huge PITA to replace, and I will really only be driving the car for about 6-7 more weeks (moving back home).

How hard is it to just throw in a switch that shorts the solenoid for a temporary fix?
How would I go about rigging one of those up?

Is there any other way to get the truck started other than having to short the solenoid every time?

Thanks.
 

·
Redneck Romeo
Joined
·
1,810 Posts
There is definitely no resistance in the ignition, so from the responses it sounds like it's the upper ignition actuator.
I have limited tools and time, that sounds like a huge PITA to replace, and I will really only be driving the car for about 6-7 more weeks (moving back home).

How hard is it to just throw in a switch that shorts the solenoid for a temporary fix?
How would I go about rigging one of those up?

Is there any other way to get the truck started other than having to short the solenoid every time?

Thanks.
I can't help much with your questions, but I can tell you that it's really not that difficult to replace. It took me an hour to do in my driveway, and that includes having to run back to the parts store to get a different set of snap ring pliers.
 

·
Registered
93 F-150
Joined
·
145 Posts
Something similar to this happened to me today. Truck wouldnt start, no crank, no clicks, nothing. Put the screwdriver to the solenoid, fired up. However while driving it in D the truck wouldnt shift so I shifted to overdrive and it was fine. Went to the parts store and threw in a new starter solenoid and still same problem. Turned the key and shifted the column and voila truck started. Apparently every gear selection moved to left 1 click. i.e. 1st is now drive and reverse it as park. Anyone have this happen to them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
157 Posts
The only reason the ignition actuator is a pain in the ass is because you have to take the lower part of the dash apart, and I also found that dropping the column a few inches helps. You don't need any thing more than a few basic tools and some persistance to fix this issue.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,984 Posts
X2 for "upper ignition actuator" OEM part #E9TZ 3E715 B available at either a Ford Stealership or in the Help section, mfg Dorman...this part is for BOTH Tilt and Non-Tilt steering columns....

When you turn the key to "RUN/START" and there's no spring resistance feeling it usually the actuator is broken, you can jump start the "stater relay" with the key turned to "RUN" which to me is very harsh on the relay as they are cheaply made...OR you can also remove the black plastic column shroud exposing the "ignition rod" on top of the column and using a set of pliers, key at "RUN" drive the rod forward/downward and it will start the vehicle and you'll still have key functions RUN/NO START, OFF/LOCK and AUX...

A word of caution when driving that a piece of the broken actuator can move forward and jam the steering wheel and column shifter.....making it difficult turning and shifting...


Check this thread: ignition actuator replacement on an 85 w/Tilt - by Bronco boy IIRC...it's a picture step by step break down of How To ~ DIY so you can replace the broken actuator....RickyB and I did in just around 2 hrs..and I honestly think the hardest part is getting the spring loaded Tilt/NonTilt knuckle back on, it's BIATCH....along with "timing" everything..

If you look just under the "key cylinder:" you'll see a small slot and with a pointed tool turn the key to RUN and push up hard in that slot and the key cylinder will pop out, inside there's a snap ring, washer and "drive gear" which is attached to a lower actuator which is attached to the upper igniton actuator, the igniton rod is attached at the top upper actuator using a 3/32 x 3/8 "roll pin" and rod also attached to the igntion switch mounted to the column on 2 studs with 7/16' bolts the switch is also adjustable for timing....make sense yet....lol lol

All of this must be "timed" correctly so when you turn the key to "RUN/START" all of these parts "rotate" forward simultaneously so the ignition rod travels the correct distance downward to trigger the ignition switch....

This not one of Ford's best design, the upper ignition is made of cheap pot metal for an integeral part of the vehicle....

PATIENCE is the word you need to remember when doing this job, put down a big piece of cardboard if necessary and make a diagram of the column, lable it so you can keep track of where all the parts go...
Also be CAREFULL if you drop the steering column from it's dash support, there is a white cable wrapping around it from underneath winding up on the left side which is the dash PRNDL adustment, it's spring loaded with a wire a fine wire loop to a small adjustment screw DON'T BREAK IT with the weight of the column, use something to prop the column from going too far dowward, you'll see it when you take off the "column shroud" you'll also need to free up the column harness so you can stretch it up a bit to move the directional signal cam out of the way.....study the thread I mentioned and you'll be fine...

When you get this done, check and make sure the column shift linkage is in sync with the transmission, illustration "Point A" in the Haynes Manual which shows to pull the column shifter into the D position and secure it there in place so it doesn't move, going underneath the truck drivers side, loosen the column shift linkage "bolt" just enough to click the transmission "tab" all the way(stop) then 2 clicks forward and tighten the "bolt put it in park, done.
This take about 15 minutes so when you run thru PRNDL everything is in sync....obviously only perform this if it applies to your year BKO.....but there should be something similar...if you pull codes FIRST and it shows fault code 67, AC or NSS this procedure can resolve this issue quickly, in most instances it's not always the NSS....OK


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top