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Discussion Starter #1
hey im getting ready to put the head back on my truck, and the pistons have been exposed to open air in my garage for about a week or so, should i spray the cylinder with anything before i but the head back on?
 

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crank trigger
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hey, when you are doing stuff like that with all sorts of big components removed it is good to cover everything with rags and cloth etc to keep foreign objects out of your motor. just fyi.
i bet it is fine though.
 

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Probably to late now. I'd turn the crank by hand and lube each cylinder with motor oil just ot make sure everything is prepped for start up. Just dont use to much oil.
Enough so that everything turns is all you need.
 

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Lick my
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Just close this thread now before it gets ugly. Collinlesser will NOT learn anything from this post.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
funny, its a serious question so if you dont have a reason to post that pertains to this thread then dont post
 

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Put a little bit on a CLEAN towel, then wipe the cylinder walls with it.
 

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Practicing Infidel
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FordBroncoLover said:
Probably to late now. I'd turn the crank by hand and lube each cylinder with motor oil just ot make sure everything is prepped for start up. Just dont use to much oil.
Enough so that everything turns is all you need.
Great idea

but for heaven's sake keep an eye on where the distributor gear is, if the the dist is out.

The WD-40 thing is for long term apart engines and mostly if the rings have seized to the bores. You could spray a little on a rag and wipe any dust/dirt off the bore walls, but oil will do just as well (as mentioned already).

Sixlitre
 

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0 to hero in 94563.1 sec
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Discussion Starter #12
nope i left the dizzy in, no need to make mor of a pain in the ass for my self, but doing the heads on my 85 grand marquis will be another story, its CFI so its gunna be a bizzatch to do them, so im figureing that i will just pull the motor instead and give er a good cleaning and rebuild from the bottom of the heads up, then probably drop a edelbrock intake and carb on it, but then im gunna need to go find me a loose duraspark system in a yard, dicisions secisions
 

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Practicing Infidel
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colinlesser said:
oh yea how much does it cost to get a block reworked?
If you mean; cleaning and crack testing the block, boring the cylinders, supplying and fitting the new oversized pistons to the rebuilt rods, turning the crank mains and rod journals, supplying and installing the bearings throughout (including possibly the cam bearings), new oil pump, fitted to your cleaned pump pick up tube, at least a new timing chain set, assuming your cam & lifters are reuseable, new freeze plugs installed, etc...........it can add up pretty quickly Colin.

If your block needs the mains align bored or honed that's more money. On a small V-8, like a 302 unfortunately you rarely get away with scuffing the cylinder walls and re-ringing the stock aged pistons.

A good machine shop can talk you into a new oil pan, new timing chain cover(especially on a SBF), water pump, exhaust manifolds, complete premium gasket set (at their mark up) etc ,etc.

And of course they'd love to re-do your heads because they can really ring up the charges for; the basic valve job, crack testing, new valves, guides, springs, spring seat insert shims, even valve seat inserts, head milling. Heck some will even try to sell you spring retainers and clips the SOBs !

Sometimes it pays to buy remanufactured heads for a motor from an engine factory, a jobber or another machine shop that isn't doing your shortblock.

They have to be competitive and the heads have to meet rebuilding specs, whereas your old heads can keep the cash register ringing upwards and upwards and upwards.

Big tip, do some research and find out which year of truck heads will work on your Marquis's block (piston interferance). The truck heads are the same or better than the Mustang heads (for torque production) and are good for a free 35 more horses.

You just have to find a dozey counterman (usually a Chev fanatic) who doesn't know or care about you bringing back lo-po Marquis heads as cores. Or maybe you're honest enough to pay the core charge and eat the Marquis heads ( Yarbirds tune playing "Mr. you're a better man than I" in the background).

On a bigger engine, like a 350(Chev), 360(Mopar), 351 Windsor or possibly a low, low mileage 302 you MIGHT get away with re-ringing the pistons, cross hatching the stock sized bores and replacing only the rod bearings, but it's really unlikely with a 302.

Tearing down the engine is free though and with plenty of measuring you can determine if you can get away with it. Otherwise it's wise to shop around for a complete remanufactured longblock from a high volume, discount engine factory.

By the time you factor in your time, the parts, the gaskets, paint, machining charges, transportation hassles, etc, etc you don't save a whole lot compared to the cheapest engine factories.

Nowadays the only time I attempt a rebuild is when the motor is big enough or in good enough shape to stand a chance. The other reason is if I'm modifying it with a different cam, windage tray, 5 angle valve job, Torque-Plus intake gaskets, head or intake manifold porting, deepened pan, different oil pump, etc, etc.

Otherwise if it's going back together stock, I've seen guys spend more on rebuilding one at home than an engine factory can supply a stock replacement for.

Food for thought

Sixlitre
 

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Lick my
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Just pay someone to do it. You will only make it worse.

If you've pulled off the heads already, what do you plan on doing to the shortblock? Rings? Oil pump? Bearings? Remember that its easier and cheaper to do this once. Unless you like spending money and wasting time...
 

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Are those REAL?!?!
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I've heard of people using Lucas Oil Stabelizer for prelube on cams and cylinder walls using the method mentioned previously putting it on a CLEAN lintless type rag and wiping it on...

:shrug

I do use Lucas Oil Stabelizer in the crankcase though... good chit!!! :twotu:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
the engine was already rebuilt once not to long ago i belive , the internals on the engine are extremely clean and it keeps pressure fine and doesnt smoke
 

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Sneaky Ba$tard
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Not being a smartass but if thats the case why did you take it apart?? Was there some other problems or just trying to make it look nice???
 

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0 to hero in 94563.1 sec
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Discussion Starter #19
the back of the intake manifold was oozing cause the cork wasnt installed right, then things went to shit from there, i broke a intake manifold bolt off in the head and had to have it drilled out on the otherhand its giveing me a chance to clean the shit out of alot of parts and paint them while i was waiting, i was expecting the vally (where the push rods are) to be gunked up but its spiffy clean actually, i was suprised. the paint on the heads was essentally gone. check em out



i liek restoreing older vehicles but ive never had to pull heads off before and i discovered the head alighment dowell pins werent even installed so i lsot grip and bent my push rods so i replaced them too
thats not everything but ill post em when i finish
 

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shouldn't you not paint where you want gaskets to go? Even if its only for exhaust manifolds?
 
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