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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone done this and has pics? I saw the write up but there was alot more space to work w/there than on mine. thanx
 

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Cadillac of Men
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i have done it prob a dozen times on my 78, no body lift. dont think it helps you that much. get some ratching box wrenchesl, those help a bunch. and some studs are good too, if you can fit em. just put a couple in on the corners, then its easier to hold the header in place and snug it up nicely.
 

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TTB for short
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Headers man, you just gotta wrestle 'em till they fit. Then you got to change the gaskets every time they decide to blow out... but they sound so cool ;)
 

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I'd recommend spending the extra loot on locking header bolts. If they're a bitch to get in there in the first place, you don't wanna keep having to re-tighten them for the first 1000 miles.
 

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RedClayBronc said:
Has anyone done this and has pics? I saw the write up but there was alot more space to work w/there than on mine. thanx

Pass side rear is the only place you will run into a problem, the rest is pretty easy. At least easy compared to stuffing a set of sidepipe headers into my big block 'Vette anyway.
I agree with the shortie recommendation, easiest fit and they perform well.

Greg
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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The write up was mine... (pretty sure that's the one you saw) and even w/out the body lift... remove that passenger fenderwell.
I got the the tip from Bronkzilla and I'm sure if I needed it, you'll need it more!
 

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Who needs oil anyways....
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Injected said:
Pass side rear is the only place you will run into a problem, the rest is pretty easy. At least easy compared to stuffing a set of sidepipe headers into my big block 'Vette anyway.
I agree with the shortie recommendation, easiest fit and they perform well.

Greg
:stupid Ain't that the truth. Everytime I have it off I swear I'll cut down a wrench so it will be easier the next time.

I install and have removed my shorty headers without taking out the fender wall. (1986 351W) However it is easier if your disconnect the air control valve on the hose from the air pump and move those hoses out of the way.
 

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TTB for short
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I did my long tubes w/o taking out the fenderwell in about 2 hours (removal of manifolds and install) It wasn't a big deal, you just need the right tools. A full assortment of sockets, open end wrenches, extentions, and nutdrivers helps... and a Big F-in' pipe is handy too. :rockon
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Didn't say you HAVE to do it... just that it can make it easier! :roll
 

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Seems to me like a lot of extra work, but I've also done it at least a dozen times on the different cars I've owned
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Took me about 5 minutes and I don't even know what the hell I'm doing under a hood!
Your call... just passing on some friendly advice that was passed onto and helped me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanx pepe ill definately be using that info too, things look pretty tight in the engine bay.
 

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Project Re-Build & Finish
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This is the only pic I have showing my headers. It wasn't too bad with long tubes. I just didn't like the info I saw on shorty headers aka I don't want to remove a header to change my plugs.

 

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:stupid
 

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hey, just wondering where do those pipes go after the X-member? I ran mine across under the tranny pan because the transfer case was in the way... How did you run yours?

edit: and where is your O2 sensor?
 

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how did you run it past the transfer case?
 
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