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search is bringing up heater core stuff but nothing on a bypass. so ? is; can i temporarily bypass the heater core by just connecting a hose in place of the core? or something to that extent? reason being is i have rusty water in my system and everything on the coolant side needs a replace but figure it would be best to do everything at once. and my wallet isn't in the right condition to replace everything right now. so, can this be done?
 

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yo, Yes, bypass it in engine bay, anywhere; eps if hoses need to be replaced; otherwise, wiggle em off at core conns on firewall and insert tube inside w/SS screw clamps

and since you're in a HOT area... consider this too;
Core Bypass Installation in an 88
Source: by 88rustsurvivor (monster) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=133340

Overview; "...what it does is stops the hot coolant from flowing through the heater core. I dont know if this happens in other trucks but in mine the hot heater core would cause convection inside my truck letting hot air to flow around inside, not very satisfying during summer or if the A/C is on..."

will make using Fresh Air Vents and fan feel cooler during summer blazing/scorching texas summers.
--

Also for when you get another core...

Heater Core Failure, Repeated TSB 01-15-06 for 85-96
Source: by Ford via miesk5 at http://home.comcast.net/~miesk5/technical_service_bulletins.htm#technical_service_bulletins.htm

Heater Core Failure, Repeated TSB 01-15-06 by Ford for 85-96
ISSUE: Some vehicles may exhibit (repeat) heater core leaks. This may be caused by a chemical reaction called electrolysis. Electrolysis involves an ion exchange between the heater core and engine coolant which can result in a breakdown of the heater core material. This is similar to the operation of a battery.
ACTION: Check for electrolysis on any vehicle with a heater core failure. If electrolysis is verified, flush the coolant and follow additional steps as required. Refer to the following Service Procedure for details.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Electrolysis Inspection
If there is a condition of a heater core leaking or repeat heater core leak, check for electrolysis using the following procedure:
To check for electrolysis use a DVOM set on DC volts. Place the positive probe of the meter in the engine coolant and the negative probe on the negative battery post.
Adjust engine throttle to 2000 RPM to properly get coolant flow and true electrolysis voltages.
If more than .4V is recorded, flush the
NOTE: EXPORT MARKETS, BE SURE THE WATER IS DESALINATED.

If there is still excessive voltage present in the coolant, check the engine body/battery grounds. Also, verify proper grounding of any aftermarket electrical/electronic equipment which has been installed into the vehicle. Improperly grounded electrical devices can cause electrolysis to occur.
If the condition is still present after the grounds have been checked, it may be necessary to add extra grounds to the heater core and engine. A hose clamp can be used to secure a 16 AWG stranded copper wire to the heater core inlet tube. The other end should be secured to an EXISTING FASTENER on the body sheet metal. Extra grounds to the engine should be attached between EXISTING FASTENERS on the engine and body sheet metal. Verify continuity of any added grounds to the negative battery terminal.
If the condition is still present, add a restrictor (part F1UZ-18D406-A) on the inlet hose with the arrow facing the direction of coolant flow (toward heater core). Cut the line and install with 2 hose clamps. It is important that the restrictor be installed in the right direction of flow and as close to the engine block as possible (not near the heater core itself.)
Coolant Fill Procedure
At times, in order to completely remove any trapped air in the cooling system of vehicles equipped with 4.6/5.4/6.8L modular engines, it may be necessary to use the following procedures:
Disconnect the heater hose at the right front or rear of the engine.
Remove the thermostat and housing.
Using the thermostat opening, carefully fill the engine with the proper clean coolant mixture until observed at the engine side heater hose connection.
Reconnect the heater hose and reinstall the thermostat and housing.
Fill the degas bottle to the coolant fill level mark.
Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperatures.
Select max heat and max blower speed on the climate system.
NOTE: IF THE HEAT OUTPUT IS INSUFFICIENT, OR THE ENGINE DOES NOT REACH NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURES, VERIFY PROPER THERMOSTAT OPERATION AND REPEAT PROCEDURE IF REQUIRED
 

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If that core will be re-used, you may want to cut off hoses at core connections with box cutter so that the conns won't be damaged .. they are fragile because of solder joints... I slice the hose from fireall back, along top of hose pass the clamp mark area then they are ezier to slip off...WD 40 can be used too to help em slide off without damaging too much of the hoses.

GL!
 

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search is bringing up heater core stuff but nothing on a bypass. so ? is; can i temporarily bypass the heater core by just connecting a hose in place of the core? or something to that extent? reason being is i have rusty water in my system and everything on the coolant side needs a replace but figure it would be best to do everything at once. and my wallet isn't in the right condition to replace everything right now. so, can this be done?
Take you're battered wallet (mine's hemorrhaging right now;))

down to Lowes or Home Depot and get a 37 cent plastic PVC elbow or U and push it into the hoses for now.

Been there, fixed that (in December when the frozen toes dictate where the money goes).

Sixlitre

p.s./
Your predicament is "zactly" why I picked up this $2.00 kit at the local offshore auto clearance house;



Already used the big one once on the road when my fan attacked my upper rad hose (again). Real lifesaver to have in the toolbox. Lets you fix it temporarily and keep going to get home of to the parts store
 

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yo Six!

now that is neat!

I forgot to mention that I do carry 2 small copper pipe sections to make a temp repair to heater hoses... forgot about that until i saw that Kit...

Be well pal!
 

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yo Six!

now that is neat!

I forgot to mention that I do carry 2 small copper pipe sections to make a temp repair to heater hoses... forgot about that until i saw that Kit...

Be well pal!
Thanks Al

That big one is so effective, with the larger and larger steps, I probably could have gotten away without hose clamping it.

Hope you and yours are well. Just off to get the corn into the pot and pepper up them rib eyes !!!!!!!!!

Got company comin' over tonight

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks guys. gave me the exact answers/parts i was looking for. The only thing i ask about is that valve from a jeep. That seems like something i want to try because i do feel alot of heat coming from under the pass dash and it feels similar to having the heat on the floor setting. and yes in the summer it will bake you out of the truck. but i do have one question. When does it open to let water into the HC? Only when you turn on the heat? or defrost too or how does that work? Just want to fully understand something i think i will do.
 

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yo HB,
That valve is hooked up w/vac line so when you uise MAX air, the valve shuts off coolant flow to da heater core.

Instead, for vent as well as air cond use; just put a std water shut-off valve in the heater hose connected to the intake manifold
 
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