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heavy Duty 3g rebuild

4816 Views 6 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  RRRAAAYYY2
This here is my heavy-duty 3g alternator rebuild thread.

tools required;

basic 1/4-3/8 socket set metric
impact wrench and socket 15/16"
wire brush
penetration fluid

1st, before working on any electrical part of a car/truck , disconnect the battery. next unplug regulator and the solitude connector and unbolt the hot battery post ( 10mm)

Next , you will want to remove alternator from the bracket craddle

after the alternator has been removed, loosen the 3 case bolts. Be careful to not snap or break these bolts. Use some PB or other fluids if needed.

The front of the alternator has a big socket bolt that holds the pulley onto the shaft. If you servicing the rotor and/or front bearing, you will have to impact this nut off.

once the nut and pulley has been freed from the shaft, rotor pulled from the front housing section.

you will see three smaller bolts that holds a the bearing endplate on the inside side

At this point you will have the alternator broken down. You can remove the regulator with brushes using the appropiate size torx and knock out the rear bearing cover from the rear section of housing. My kit came with new bearings, regulator, brush holder with new brushes.

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Secure brush housing to regulator and fully press brushes and secure with a broken paper clip insert in the center hole by the F and A words

another view

next secure the regulator and housing to the rear section

if you removed the bearing rear cover, tap it back in very gentle using a dowel or socket

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I bought a new stator and rectifier, so you will have to solder these two back together. I had a local alternator shop handle this due to the wattage and heat



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finally reinstall in reverse all sections

Tips learned;

1> most gear and bearing pullers jaws are too thick to fit between the rearbearing and sliprings , So you have to experiment and look around

2>it's almost next to impossible to remove the front pulley nut without a impact

3> parts are easy to find at the following location or ebay

4> if reusing rotor ot stators, at minimum have it bench tested of opens and shorts.

5> you can probably de-solder the rectifier leads without any problems, but without proper solder gun and tips, it's next to impossible to get a good hot solder connection. I paid $20.00 to have mine done by a professional

6> go very easy and lite with the hammer and tapping on the rear bearing. A tube or socket of the right size, makes this task somewhat easier
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how many amps is your alternator kicking out?
how many amps is your alternator kicking out?
I haven't gotten it to the bench just yet. I did buy the 200amp components, doubt I would get 200amp.

Also the source that i used for brushes where from here.

I did the same rebuild minus stator and rectifier on my Dad's explorer and my other ford truck.
Some extra tips for the average person. The 3G has an almost indestructable stator/rectifier. About 99% of all rebuilds do not need these parts replaced. So unless you are upgrading the output, most likely you wont need new ones.

You should however replace the rotor, as the slip rings were manufactured with too soft of a copper on OE alternators. So you will have premature rotor failure as the brushes eat through the slip rings. The rear bearing you used is a nice upgrade. We always install them with bearing retainer though. The original had teflon rings to secure it in place, and allow slight expansion. The thin coat of oil on the bearing will allow it to slide too easily in the housing, and we have seen this actually wear the rear housing out. If you dont want to purchase bearing retainer for just that, clean the bearing's outer race, and use blue loctite, it a small ring aroud the outside edge.

Hope this adds some to your post. It is great you took the time to record it all.
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