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Sayulita Layta!
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6,781 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Found out on the last 4x4 outing that my 3 bolt Autos didnt work. I went out and bought Warn Premiums and the conversion kit. To make a long story short, only one hub got done tonight, but the other will be done manana [tomorrow].

I have one question though:

The instructions on the Conversion kit said to REINSTALL the 3 rings and the small c clip [I cant describe it, heres the picture]:




Which leads to the removal of this:





I installed the parts from the conversion kit and put in the new Warn Premium hub but it wouldnt fit all the way in. I talked to a couple of FSB members and they said that i wouldnt need those 3 rings. So I installed the hub without the 3 rings and it fit perfectly. Did a little test by unlocking the hub and spinning the tire- nothing moved, then I locked the hub and spun the tire- the front driveshaft rotated.

Just to double check with the rest of the FSB members; Did/do I need to install the 3 rings or have i done the installation properly?seems to me like everthing is correct, i just want to make sure.


Specs:
1996 Eddie Bauer
351W
Limited Slip in the 8.8
Stock with 3 Bolt autos.

This is the first time I've ever gotten into the front hubs, so everything was stock to start the swap.
 

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Are you saying you put the auto hub big nut back in (that bottom picture)? It's been a few years but when I had a D44 I remembered getting a different nut with my set that replaced the auto nut. I know in my garage I have two different sockets one for the old auto nut and one for the conversion nut.
 

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Sayulita Layta!
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Discussion Starter #4
ok the second part of my post wasnt clear. i did not reinstall that second part, i installed the 2 "nuts" and lock washer that came in the conversion kit. the parts that are questionable are the 3 small rings in the 1st pic on the lower left.
 

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ok the second part of my post wasnt clear. i did not reinstall that second part, i installed the 2 "nuts" and lock washer that came in the conversion kit. the parts that are questionable are the 3 small rings in the 1st pic on the lower left.

That's what the conversion kit is. what is pictured is just one side.

I never did the hub swap yet. But I just wanted to post that picture to help out anyone that didn't understand what he was saying.
 

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Im Going With Everyone Else On This One You Do Not Need To Reinstall The Three Rings. Good Luck With The Other Side.
 

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Satyr of the Midwest
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I just completed this exact same conversion with Warn premium hubs and something a TON cheaper than their rip-off conversion set: NAPA factory replacement wheel retainer nuts. :thumbup They were only $17 each (per side, that is), but JBG has 'em for only $10 IIRC. I just didn't feel like waiting when they were in stock at NAPA.

To address your question, NO, you do NOT need those three washers OR the spring clip that holds them in place. I came across that problem, too. I ended up taking the rotor and hub off, just to see what the clearance between the hub lock and spindle would be, and it's too close for that clip to be in its slot; the clip completely stops the hub lock from going on the stub shaft all the way, and the washers aren't needed because the hub locks have C-clips on the ends that go on the stub shaft to keep it all in line.

EDIT: AGAIN, I type too damn slow!!!! :toothless
 

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Sayulita Layta!
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Discussion Starter #10
ok i got the hubs in, the correct way. as it turns out not all makes and models needs those 3 rings and c-clip. In the conversion kit, after torquing the first nut in, their is a new lock ring which holds everything in place. then another nut which gets torqued to 160-205 lb-ft:shocked


everything is great and man the premiums look pretty. thanks for the help guys.
 

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So do we even need the conversion kit???

If so, how come when i put the 2 nuts and washer on, the hub assembly doesn't leave enough room on the spindle for the last retaining ring??

Can someone tell me what order this shit goes back on? Very frustrated for making this more difficult than it is.
 

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Sayulita Layta!
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Discussion Starter #12
So do we even need the conversion kit???

If so, how come when i put the 2 nuts and washer on, the hub assembly doesn't leave enough room on the spindle for the last retaining ring??

Can someone tell me what order this shit goes back on? Very frustrated for making this more difficult than it is.
You do NEED the lock nuts unless you want your wheel to fly off. Get behind the knuckle with a bar of some sort and push the axle shaft out.
 

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Cleaning the trails
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After the outer bearing, I did use the thin shim out of the three rings, The other two have teeth inside. I did not use those. Just used the shim to give a surface for the hub to rub against the spindle. Do not use the half C clip. If you cannot ge the outer snap ring on, have someone push out on the axle. All the seals pull it back in the spindle about 1/8-1/4". THis should allow enough room to put the final snap ring on.
So it will be outer bearing, locknut with pin, lockwasher with holes aligned to inner locknut, outer locknut, thin shim* with no teeth, and then install the hub per directions. I do not have a pictures, but I just removed and installed them last weekend.

*Item 12 in this diagram
 

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So do we even need the conversion kit???
If you have the 3 bolt auto's, then you need this kit.
If so, how come when i put the 2 nuts and washer on, the hub assembly doesn't leave enough room on the spindle for the last retaining ring??

Can someone tell me what order this shit goes back on? Very frustrated for making this more difficult than it is.
If you notice the nut on the right, it has a nipple. That nut/nipple is to go on first with nipple facing out. Torqued to 50 ft lbs, then backed off 1/4 turn. Then the washer has to get that nipple thru one of the holes. If it (nipple)doesn't go thru a hole, then flip the washer over and try again. Then the nut without the nipple goes on last and torqued to at least 150ft lbs.
 

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If you have the 3 bolt auto's, then you need this kit.



If you notice the nut on the right, it has a nipple. That nut/nipple is to go on first with nipple facing out. Torqued to 50 ft lbs, then backed off 1/4 turn. Then the washer has to get that nipple thru one of the holes. If it (nipple)doesn't go thru a hole, then flip the washer over and try again. Then the nut without the nipple goes on last and torqued to at least 150ft lbs.
No, you torque the bold to 70 ft lbs, then loose it up, and torque it to 20 ft lbs.

Good luck torquing the 2nd spanner nut to 150. I got it to about 80-100 and couldn't get it any tighter. It will be fine.

EDIT- maybe if I find the different spindle nut socket, Ill retorque mine to 150.
 

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No, you torque the bold to 70 ft lbs, then loose it up, and torque it to 20 ft lbs.

Good luck torquing the 2nd spanner nut to 150. I got it to about 80-100 and couldn't get it any tighter. It will be fine.
Sure, you do it your way and I'll do it the right way :thumbup And I just did mine the other day and got it to 150 ft lbs outer nut.
 

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So if the late model style with the one nut and lock clip holds just fine under an autolock why all this craziness about useing the earlier style 2 nuts when swapping to manuals. Friends 96 has manuals from the factory and the single nut and clip. Just took it apart to change a rotor and found out.
 

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Ok thanks for all the help. we figured it out after a few hours of confusion< but next time it should only take a couple hours to do everything
 
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