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Discussion Starter #1
I was on my way home today and my truck started shifting funny, the OD light on the shifter was not on or flashing and the check engine light was coming on whenever it was shifting funny. I stopped at a stop sign about 1.5 miles from my house and it died. Got it restarted after about 10 tries and limped home, check engine light stayed on. I got home and pulled codes, Only KOEO because it wont run now. It had 1 code before 334, which is egr solenoid out of spec. That code isnt present now and I have 20 others. It makes absolutely no sense why I would have 20 all at one time, this has to be wrong.

117-engine coolant temperature sensor below minimum voltage
638-transmission oil temp. circuit below minimum voltage
126-map above or below normal
122-tps below minimum voltage
112-IAT sensor below minimum voltage
327-EGR valve below minimum voltage
654-not in park during KOEO
513
553-thermactor air diverter solenoid circuit fault
552-thermactor air bypass solenoid circuit fault
565-canister purge solenoid curcuit fault
556-fuel pump relay primary circuit fault
558-EGR valve regulator solenoid circuit fault
621-shift soldnoid #1 circuit fault
622-shift solenoid #2 circuit fault
631-overdrive transmission cancel indicator light circuit fault
629-converter clutch solenoid circuit fault or lock up solenoid circuit fault
626-coast clutch solenoid circuit fault
624-electronic pressure control solenoid circuit fault
111

It seems as if every sensor on the truck is bad and all the tranny ones too. The tranny was rebuilt only 5,000mi ago and I just put a new TPS sensor on on friday. All these electrical failures have to be related to something going bad. Computer maybe?
 

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With that many all at once, I'd bet the ecm took a poop. Clear the codes, drive it around a bit and see which ones pop back up.
 

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I agree with pulling codes and either clear codes with which ever OBD code reader you use or disconnect the battery for 20 minutes and it should default back to oem factory settings and then drive it around see what codes are in continuous memory, perform KOEO and KOER as soon as it's running warmed up.

Does sound like computer may be going out...IDK.....$100.00 at Rock Auto..

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #4
When I first got home and put the reader on it, it had 27 codes, cleared them out. Performed KOEO again, got 20 codes. I just tried starting it again, fired up fine, no codes, took it for a spin and 2 mins later its shifting funny again, check again light is on, check engine came on and off the whole way home. Still think its the computer?
 

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What transmission does your 93 BKO have, AOD, E4OD or C series....?

Check the Haynes Repair Manual for any "adjustments" if you have a transmission "TV cable" it's very simple or an electric solenoid below that controls shifting may or may not have an adjustment, just replacement...

www.broncolinks.com

Once you get this resolved I would suggest you service the transmission with a filter/gasket kit and fluid to extend the life...


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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When I first got home and put the reader on it, it had 27 codes, cleared them out. Performed KOEO again, got 20 codes. I just tried starting it again, fired up fine, no codes, took it for a spin and 2 mins later its shifting funny again, check again light is on, check engine came on and off the whole way home. Still think its the computer?
Probably not the computer, because they usually don't fix themselves and then break again. But, there is a good chance that you have a bad power lead or bad ground. The computer reads the sensors and uses it's own power input to decide what to do with the info. If it has a low voltage because of bad input, then it won't function properly, and could think all the inputs are wrong.

Not knowing anything about your truck, I'd suggest an ecc relay check would be a good start. Get a meter and check the output to the ecc. if good, Check the input to the ecc plug. And, get some contact cleaner. But make sure it's dry before you replug it to the ecc and start the truck.

If you don't have a meter, I don't think that the relay is all that expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What transmission does your 93 BKO have, AOD, E4OD or C series....?
For some reason my signature didnt post on all my other posts after the first one at the top of the page, its an E4OD.

Once you get this resolved I would suggest you service the transmission with a filter/gasket kit and fluid to extend the life...
Its only got a few thousand miles on it since it was fully rebuilt, I hope it doesnt need fluid and a filter already.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I popped the computer out and I didnt think it was gunna be good when their was water behind the rubber gasket. The entire tray where the puter sits is covered in rust. The puter itself is wet and has some rust on it. Some of the pins also had corrosion on them. I ordered a replacement from discount that should be here tomorrow. I read a few threads and it other people that have inconsistent weird running problems replaced theirs and it went away. I'm really hoping it fixes it, if it doesnt I dont know what else it could be.
 

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Well I popped the computer out and I didnt think it was gunna be good when their was water behind the rubber gasket. The entire tray where the puter sits is covered in rust. The puter itself is wet and has some rust on it. Some of the pins also had corrosion on them. I ordered a replacement from discount that should be here tomorrow. I read a few threads and it other people that have inconsistent weird running problems replaced theirs and it went away. I'm really hoping it fixes it, if it doesnt I dont know what else it could be.
Probably your issue right there. The low sensor voltage and sensor circuit faults scream bad pcm to me. Water got in your pcm somehow. Be sure your pcm is well sealed and throughly clean your pcm connector with good contact cleaner.
 

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Probably not the computer, because they usually don't fix themselves and then break again. But, there is a good chance that you have a bad power lead or bad ground. The computer reads the sensors and uses it's own power input to decide what to do with the info. If it has a low voltage because of bad input, then it won't function properly, and could think all the inputs are wrong.

<snip>.
Snookgetter,
I agree with snowtom above.

My first thought was a bad ground. But with your finding of wet crappy connections to the PCM, that absolutely makes sense. You may not have fried the PCM, but you need to clean up the contacts.
 

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You either have a leak along the bottom windshield molding or cowl somwhere letting in water when it rains or when you wash the truck so figure out where it is and get after it ASAP!

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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You either have a leak along the bottom windshield molding or cowl somwhere letting in water when it rains or when you wash the truck so figure out where it is and get after it ASAP!

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
this.

there's a seam under the cowl and the sealant can crack and allow water into the cabin.
 

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M winshield leaked when it rained along the top molding outside from the air pressure forcing it in then drip on my leg while driving PITA....lol lol....so I took off the interior molding inside along the roof line and spread clear silicone all the way across the windshield and now it doesn't leak there any more though occasionally I will get a small dripping from under the dash passenger side......so I'll have to figure that out, also have a an upside down horseshoe crack on the lower drivers side bottom so one of these days I'll replace the windhsield BUT I'm in SoCal so NBD....:rofl:


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well if anyone else has this problem the ECM was the problem, got a reman from Discount and put it in, problem solved. I put sum high temp rtv around the rubber gasket like someone already mentioned. I'm gunna look for a spare this weekend at the JY so if this happens again I'm not out $110.

About this seal, anyone have a pic of said seal? I've never had the cowel off before, although my windshield does have a slight leak on the passenger side....sometimes. The first time I had safelite replace it the guy leaned on the thin frame and bowed it inwards, the water collected there in the nice spot where he scraped off all the paint with his razorknife cleaning off all the old gasket. I just had them come back a few weeks ago since it has a lifetime warrantee after first noticing it was leaking and now I have a silver dollar sized rust spot, they replaced it but wont in the future as it has rust now. Sure are nice guys, they caused the rust, now they void the warrantee because of it and it still leaks. Off my soapbox now, if someone has a diagram or pic of this cowl seal that would be great.
 

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I think when I do replace my winshield I'll have it taken out first then clean the metal window tray of any rust, prime and repaint it then put the new seal and window in and hopefully avoid a problem like yours....though I know there's rust there just on the leak alone hoping it's not too bad.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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just take off the cowl dude. you cannot fawking miss this big-ass seam once you have the cowl off.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think when I do replace my winshield I'll have it taken out first then clean the metal window tray of any rust, prime and repaint it then put the new seal and window in and hopefully avoid a problem like yours....though I know there's rust there just on the leak alone hoping it's not too bad.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
The second time they replaced it he used a wire brush, some special acid to kill the rust (supposedly) and some special paint in a pvc glue kinda can. The point was the rust was their fault and their special primer and paint didnt fix the rust, the whole process is a crock being as it is their fault to begin with.
 

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Years ago on a different vehicle I used Eastwood's brick colored primer paint called Corroless and once applied it turns rust into magnatite by drawing out moisture and hardening the left over metal stopping the rust cycle, worked like a charm .....don't know if that helps but it's not expensive and you can paint right over it.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #20
You either have a leak along the bottom windshield molding or cowl somwhere letting in water when it rains or when you wash the truck so figure out where it is and get after it ASAP!

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
just take off the cowl dude. you cannot fawking miss this big-ass seam once you have the cowl off.
Took the cowl off, their is a rotted piece of foam crap underneath it. Their are also several "compartments" under the cowl, their all dry no rust. The body glue or cault inbetween the body seams that you can see is all in good shape. So I'm gunna say this has nothing to do with my original problem.
 
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