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The Doc
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Discussion Starter #1
ok so heres the deal i have a red top and yellow top wired in paralell and both batts show 10.5 to 11 volts on my voltmeter but the truck wont crank iot just has a very weak click like a dead battery i even bought one of these
so i cut all the juice completely and charged bothe of the on the charger ???????????????:banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead :banghead
 

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10.5 to 11 volts just isn't enough. A fully charged battery will have 12.6. Fresh off the charger it could be even more. It sounds like they need a good long charge or you need to replace them.
 

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ASSSSS-HOOOOOLE
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My optima just took a dump one day, fired it up, drove to the store, when I came back out it would just click, I've been told that when they go, they go fast.
 

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Humm... .I suggested a battery isolator for dual setups, cause its what the professionals do, I mean, they even seel them in JCW catalogs... but I was told they werent needed. Okay, I was wrong. There were other reasons I wanted to post about needing an isolator, but I really have of late grown tired of all the fawking conflict and arguments about every little post and every little technical detail. Theres more asshats than experienced peeps on the Interent, and Im finding they all want to join a forum of one type or another. Somewhere Im guessing, my my amature psyc opinion, someone didnt get to spend enough time on the titty and needs extra attention. :shrug

Oh, anyway.... I myself would suggest installing a battery isolator for a dual battery setup. If you wish sir, google "dual battery isolator" and see what you can find.

Good luck,
Andrew
 

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ASSSSS-HOOOOOLE
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Dr.Dirty said:
i even bought one of these
so i cut all the juice completely and charged bothe of the on the charger
MYFULLSIZE, Did I miss another thread or something? I thought this WAS an isolator, I'm pretty confused by your post, cuz I was under the impression that he was saying he put an isolator on it, charged it, and still had the same problem. Maybe I missed something, please explain.

Yeller
 

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Administrator
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Oldyeller said:
MYFULLSIZE, Did I miss another thread or something? I thought this WAS an isolator, I'm pretty confused by your post, cuz I was under the impression that he was saying he put an isolator on it, charged it, and still had the same problem. Maybe I missed something, please explain.

Yeller
thats basically just a cut off switch...the reason I run an isolator on my system is that it will keep the batteries charged equally. with out one the weaker battery can drain the stronger one.
 

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I have to agree with Gettin' Dirty

Personally I don't have a dual setup in my Bronco but I do in my F250 Diesel. I noticed the difference when I tried to jump it and placed the jumper cables on the good battery... it just clicked. I put it on the bad battery and she jumped right up.

Long story short, isolate and see which battery it is. It sure does sound like one battery is pulling on the other and thus dropping your voltage down.
 

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The Doc
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Discussion Starter #11
well i took the yellow top back to sears and it was bad so i will get a new one tommrow warrantys are awesome lol thanks guys for all you help and advice
 

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I ♥ TTB
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Just to throw my 2 cents in, you should be reading about 12.8 OCV on each battery fully charged. You could be up as high as 13.4 fresh off the charger.
 

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redwagon said:
thats basically just a cut off switch...
X-Actly... just a switch. A battery isolator will do just that, isolate two batteries. It will prevent one battery from draining the other (bad battery scenario), keep both batteries charged, prevent load from drawing on both batteries, only uses the one its connected to.

You would have for example, a primary that is for the VEHICLE, such as OEM lights, etc.. The second one for ACCESSORIES... winch, mega stereo, off road lights, etc.. If you have a lot of accessories, a beefy alt would be in order. But buy an isolater rated for what you need... there pricey and make paper weights easily.

Cheers,
Andrew
 
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