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well the other night I went to start the 90 bronco and it went threw the first two clicks and turned futher to start it and it just gave...I managed to jump the solenoid and get home to look at it.

I took the column apart today to find out how lucky I was to get into drive, the Cast metal piece that is in between the tumbler and rod for the starter switch broke in THREE! broke at the tumblers and the shaft the slides down for the shifter.

I didnt take all the pieces out that broke but I took out the one for the shifter and the piece that fall out from the tumblers. ill get pics later..

BTW its a tilt colmn
but yeah I lookin for that cast metal piece... if any one has a tilt column torn apart......
 

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It sounds like your ignition actuator broke, $9.00 part so why not just fix it?,
most auto parts chains have them or go to the Ford $tealer$hip last resort. :doh0715:

I swapped out my Tilt for non-tilt because the actuotor broke and it was badly degraded, threads stripped etc. but oddly enough the non-tlt has an actuator as well, search the local bone yards if you have to swap columns.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I do plan to fix it, just need the part too fix it.:thumbup as I said, I left one piece in there. which is the arched piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
how much are you willing to pay
13.59

picked up two at O'reillys

Thanks, JKossarides I didn't know if this was a common part to break....guess so. thanks for the lead
 

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Big Wurmb:
Very common for these cheap pot metal actuators to break, poor OEM design flaw IMO. Mine has been broken for several months and still using pliers to start, ordered the part from my special go to guy who got the wrong part and I just haven't gotten around to exchanging it and getting back to tearing it all down, I think I took it a part 4-5 times already so I'm very familiar with the sequence.

This is from my 86 non-tilt but for anyone who has this problem.

The one thing to remember is when you pull the key cylinder tumbler out there may be TWO actuators, upper which is the broken one attached to the "Rod" and a lower which is inside the steering wheel collar that "interfaces" with the key cylinder by a grear/washer/snap ring.

It's important to understand when re-installing the key cylinder you match the gear teeth/washer and the end of the key cylinder with the "lower actuator" so it works properly in "Run" "Off" and "AUX" positions, otherwise everything will be out of sync when using the key to start & stop.
There are numerous threads etc. but make sure you look at the position of the grear teeth before/if you take it out in relation to some reference point inside there or mark it so it matches up with the lower actuator the way it came out, lube it as well.

I marked the "Rod" and Column with chaulk in all 3 positions to make it easier for re-intsallation, remember you can only get the key cylinder out in the "Run" position (pushing on that tab in the hole in the collar) and once out look to see exactly what the positon the TOP GEAR TEETH are in relation to the lower actuator, the gear/washer has a slot identical to the end of the key cylinder so when putting it back in you have to line that up first, then it locks in place, then go to "Run" "Off" "Aux". If you do it right the wheel will lock and the clock display will be off in the "OFF" position, PITA if you have to take it apart and re-do it you know.:banghead

I hope that helps Brother, check out the "1985 ignition actuator" thread has tons of pictures to view OK.................!

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
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