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Discussion Starter #1
:whiteflag ok, so heres the deal my bronco wont start its a 95 xlt 5.8L 4x4, ive replaced the ign control mod, the tps, the ecm, and the fuel system wire harness, and i still cant get fuel to go through the injectors, ive tryed to ground them out at the computer plug in and they work i think its a bad ground but cant find one, o yea and i checked every wire going to the computer and they all look good

PLEASE HELP!! any advice would be loved

thanks in advance guys

--Chris
 

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We need more information.
Is the fuel pump even pumping at all?
Are you getting pressure to the rail?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
yes, the fuel pump is pumpiing and its getting 30psi at the rail without the pump running and 34psi with the pump running
 

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If you were having problems what "fault codes" were generated if any in the vehicle computer....throwing money at a problem without diagnosing is costly.......

*It's either the "fuel relay" I can't say specificaly where it's located on your 95 BKO, "search" www.broncolinks.com and www.fordfuelinjection.com or it could be the FPR = "fuel pressure regulator", located on top of the fuel rail towards the back, the hex screws are upside down......PITA....

Are the "fuel pumps" coming on when you turn the key to RUN......the gas tank has a small fp/sending unit and the other fp is located around the drivers seat area underneath on the frame rail...how old are the fuel filter/s...?

For any reason did you trip the "Inertia Switch", safety kill switch, it can either be located along the carpet line near the firewall or behind a kick panel inside the cab...a stretch maybe but easy to re-set....

My 86 has the round in-line filter ahead of the forward fp AND another filter inside a fuel "reservoir" located back on the frame rail under the transfer case skid plate, black plastic cap and bowl "designed to keep the forward pump from starving on extreme off road angles, cornering and up'down hill.....any problems there for me such as a leak or pressure valve malfunction and the vehicle won't run because the fuel won't flow beyond that point..up to the injectors etc....this would only be a concern if you have the fuel "reservoir" OK....



I any case fuel relays, fuel pressure regulators are not expensive and you can do it your self...

Start with that

Good Luck ~
 

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have you checked your injectors? do they have gunk buildup?

very unlikely for them all to the blocking the fuel, but something you can look into
 

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no doubt it sounds like alot more diagnosing is in order if you got good pressure at the rail the i would check injector the injectors to see if there working. Theres a tool that you can buy which will plug in between the injector and the connector that will light up if they are working. if your all good there then i would check fire and pull plugs to see if there fireing. if there not fireing than its something on that end like a coil or the distributor has crapped on you. Im no mechanic but have been around cars a longtime and picked up alot from my dad and his friends about cars. I wouldnt rule out the pressure regulator either although you have between 30psi-35psi
 

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I doubt it is a pressure regulator you have decent pressure. The tool in which the green goblin reffers to are noid lights usually you can buy these at most chain auto part stores pretty cheap.
 

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penis
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1. Pull codes

2. I seriously doubt it is a fuel issue

3. Sounds like a bad sensor preventing start up that completely crapped out or that.
 

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si vis pacem, para bellum
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have u checked the pressure before and after the fuel filter? it is possible that you have a plugged up fuel filter and that is stopping it.
 

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I'm in Chesapeake, too. I'm new to wrenching on Broncos, but I've been wrenching for 25 years on Japanese, American, Italian and English vehicles of all varieties, and I'm a former professional mechanic, so I will help in any way that I can (I yanked my engine out of my BCO for a freshening up today, so my time is limited, but nonetheless, I'll help as I can.)

First, I need more information.
You told us all of the things you replaced but you did not tell the sequence in which you replaced them, or what you had recently replaced before the truck crapped out on you.

I definitely think you need to run a diagnostics on your truck to see if any error codes pop up, but also--think of what you might have done to upset the balance of your engine. Are all electrical connections tight? Is anything disconnected? There is so much crap on these new engines that it is easy to miss something. Did you hook up all of your ground wires? (they're everywhere).

Anyway, it sounds from your posts that you are saavy to working on vehicles, so I'm sure you've checked all of the easy things, but it never hurts to throw these things out there.
Best of luck.
 

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Fuel injectors are redundant and as long as they have power they'll squirt fuel + or -, I can't imagine them being that gunked up not to work....

Keep at it, unless it's an electrical issue most fuel problems won't throw a code.

Good Luck ~
 

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Discussion Starter #16
yea thats what i was thinking plus i didnt get any codes last night but after doing some testing i believe the magnetic pickup in the distributor is bad so im replacing that today ill keep you guys posted

---Chris
 

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I know its really of no help but this is the main reason I have given up on fuel injection engines. They have more issues then a woman during her special time of month. Carbs are easier to work with, have less that could go wrong with them, are easy to fix, and won't eat cash trying to fix the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
ok, so i replaced the magnetic pickup in the distributor and no help, :cry

but after some testing, ive got it narrowed down to an electrical issue to the fuel injectors, somehow the computer is not grounding them out.

i did ground them out at the connection to the comp. and they work so i dont know what to do is the computer bad or what????:duh
 

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Have you done the trusty spray bottle with water in it and spray the COLD engine all over at night then start it up to see if there are arcs going?? Maybe you have a massive short somewhere on the harness???
 

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I'm with you.
Feulies are nice in terms of being able to get a full (and more efficiant) electronic fuel map through the entire RPM range, but when things start to break, it gets expensive in a hurry, and is often hard to diagnose. "Replacement Mechanics" is often the only way for most of us to tackle a situation like this. Unfortunately, with many of us running the E4OD, this becomes problematic, because in order to keep our transmission, we now have to find another way of controlling it.

A correctly set-up carb will have instant throttle response, plenty of power, and (if you keep your foot out of it) good economy, provided you select a carb that is the right size for your engine. A 302 does not need any more than 500 CFM to deliver optimal volumetric efficiency to 4800-5000 RPM, and a 600 CFM carb will more than do a 351CID justice to the same RPMs. That sounds small, but those are the facts, unless you have high flow heads, and a large cam.

That said, I'm sticking with my FI until I have issues.
:doh0715:
 
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