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Discussion Starter #1
I need help with the procedure for removing the drive axles on a Dana 44 in my Bronco, pictures and a detailed dis assemble break down would be greatly appreciated.

It's my first tear down of a Dana 4x4 axle so detail and pictures are good.

Thanks.
 

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Well, i doubt anybody has those pictures and all ready to be posted up, if so they've probably already done a build thread.. so, search...

otherwise, just put it up on jack stands, and take it apart, it's not really that hard..

(in this order) tires off, brakes off, hubs off, hub parts out, spindles off, pull axles out.

once this is done, take the cover off the dif, and unbolt the bearing caps, the whole carrier will come out. keep the shims in place if it has them (so you dont get them mixed up) to remove the pinion gear, just take off the nut in the yoke, and pull the yoke off. then the pinion comes out inside the dif.

Easy, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Don't get angry.

Listen it's a 31 year old vehicle and it's the first time pulling one of these apart,the spindle seems to be seized onto the axle as well as the caliper mount.

You probably shouldn't answer posters if it upsets you so much.


I'll try and be more specific, I need to know does the spindle and caliper mount come off without removing the steering knuckle then can I pull the drive axle out through the steering knuckle or do I have to remove the steering knuckle first and do I have to remove the diff cover and remove a keeper or some other form of axle fastener.

as I said pictures would be great.

Thanks.
 

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oscar espinoza
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sorry i have no pics but the spindle does come off on its own...but tha thing is jamed..ones u take of the 6 or 5 bolts it has..hammer away...i jammed a chisel in between with a hammer...that thig is jammed..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks man

sorry i have no pics but the spindle does come off on its own...but tha thing is jamed..ones u take of the 6 or 5 bolts it has..hammer away...i jammed a chisel in between with a hammer...that thig is jammed..
I still need to know though once the spindle and caliper mount are off does the axle just pull out or do I need to remove something else?

Thanks.
 

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Once the spindle is off and you have just the steering knuckle left, the axle should pull out through the hole.
 

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as was said earlier, the shaft will pull through the knuckle once you get the spindle off, it will come off, just take those knuckle to spindle bolts out and seperate the two. You will not need to access the gear housing to remove C clips or anything, the shaft just slides out.
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks zues.

as was said earlier, the shaft will pull through the knuckle once you get the spindle off, it will come off, just take those knuckle to spindle bolts out and seperate the two. You will not need to access the gear housing to remove C clips or anything, the shaft just slides out.
I've taken all the nuts off the studs and hit it with WD40 and let it sit over night then I gave it some pretty solid hits with a hammer, it does not even budge.

Is it common for these to rust this solid?

I've sprayed some more WD40 on it and I'm thinking I might just go with EastLA's suggestion and try a chisel on it.

On another note I can't believe the Venom this question has brought out, I would suggest to those that have reached such a high level of expertize that they no longer require the help of others and they do not have the patients and time to help others in a friendly way should probably just refer to the old saying of "If you have nothing nice to say don't say anything at all"
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have have a OEM Ford manual.

That's a TTB, we're in 78/9 stuff here.
To Ned: I encourage you to ask for help if you get stuck, but you should really get yourself a service manual and read it before you start this. There's a lot of info in a $15 Haynes manual you need at your side.
But unfortunately this is my first time doing this job and the Ford manual does not say if the axle is seized and rusted in place this is how you get it out.

I was only looking for some support and real world axle experience ie... yes it comes out how it shows in the manual but here's a tip to make the job easier and if it's seized or rusted in this is the best way to get it out.

Had I known that such a simple harmless question would cause so much trouble I would have not posted and worked it out myself.

I guess in the end it was my mistake for thinking this was a forum to ask questions of others who may have completed this job in the past.


I apologize and will ask no further questions
 

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use a rubber mallet and hit it with some good whacks around the end of the spindle and it should come loose. I've never had to use a chisel to get them off. once its off your axle should come out pretty easily. if your tearing it apart due to it leaking gear oil out of the tubes then you will also need to remove the gear chunk to get to the inner seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
You're saying hit it on the threaded end?

use a rubber mallet and hit it with some good whacks around the end of the spindle and it should come loose. I've never had to use a chisel to get them off. once its off your axle should come out pretty easily. if your tearing it apart due to it leaking gear oil out of the tubes then you will also need to remove the gear chunk to get to the inner seals.

Now that's the kind of advice I was looking for, thanks very much I'll try it.:thumbup
 

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shibby
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Being as my axle is not a TTB I thought there may be some differences.
There are some minor differences but the majority of it is the same as a solid axle. It shows pictures of what you're asking about as far as the axle shaft and the knuckle.

I've had spindles where it took me beating on them with a 5 lb hammer to break them loose. If you find it difficult to get it off at first, go ahead and punch all of the spindle studs out and try again.
 

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But unfortunately this is my first time doing this job and the Ford manual does not say if the axle is seized and rusted in place this is how you get it out.

I was only looking for some support and real world axle experience ie... yes it comes out how it shows in the manual but here's a tip to make the job easier and if it's seized or rusted in this is the best way to get it out.

Had I known that such a simple harmless question would cause so much trouble I would have not posted and worked it out myself.

I guess in the end it was my mistake for thinking this was a forum to ask questions of others who may have completed this job in the past.


I apologize and will ask no further questions
:cry
 

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As Dustball said, there is only slight differences between the TTB and the solid. mainly the biggest is the passenger side shaft.

but your going to have to beat on that spindle hitting it side to side and up and down. you have some room to hammer on it with a 3-5 lb hammer between the bearing surfaces, but don't mess them up or the threads or you will be hunting down another spindle.

when reassembling it you can wire wheel the spindle and parts free of rust and use some anitseize on it.
 

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But unfortunately this is my first time doing this job and the Ford manual does not say if the axle is seized and rusted in place this is how you get it out.

I was only looking for some support and real world axle experience ie... yes it comes out how it shows in the manual but here's a tip to make the job easier and if it's seized or rusted in this is the best way to get it out.

Had I known that such a simple harmless question would cause so much trouble I would have not posted and worked it out myself.

I guess in the end it was my mistake for thinking this was a forum to ask questions of others who may have completed this job in the past.


I apologize and will ask no further questions
Ned, I think you are overreacting a little bit, for the most part the things people are posting are correct, it seems like you are putting your own little bit of bite in peoples statements, sometimes things don't read the way they were meant, I didn't see anything that was posted that would constitute this type of a response. Trust me, it gets a thousand times worse, especially on the 80-96 board.
Edit: I just went back through and reread all posts, I never saw a single thing posted by anyone that should be classified as "venom". Actually, you quoted my post in which I agreed with a previous poster on the fact that the shaft will pull through the hole in the knuckle, trust me when I say I'm the last dude that is going to spit venom at anyone on here, i ask for help quite often too because there are things i've never touched in the 14 years I've owned my 78. I have had to replace the shafts on my D44 30+ times so I thought I could lend a hand here. Chill out and stop putting your own venom on everyones posts, you will have a lot more fun here.

Now, start out with a very thin chisel or strong putty knife, work your way around with a hammer tapping the knife/chissel in. Start at the 12:00 position, go to 6:00, then 9:00, then 3:00, then 7:00, then 1:00 and so on, the gap will open up a little bit at a time but you have to go side to side or top to bottom, it needs to come off square/evenly, not at an angle. good luck. Oh and please, please, please make sure the bronco is sitting firmly on a high quality set of jack stands, don't use the jack (only as a backup), you are going to need to really get under there and swing away like it just said something about yo momma.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Actually Zues if you re-read.

Ned, I think you are overreacting a little bit, for the most part the things people are posting are correct, it seems like you are putting your own little bit of bite in peoples statements, sometimes things don't read the way they were meant, I didn't see anything that was posted that would constitute this type of a response. Trust me, it gets a thousand times worse, especially on the 80-96 board.
Edit: I just went back through and reread all posts, I never saw a single thing posted by anyone that should be classified as "venom". Actually, you quoted my post in which I agreed with a previous poster on the fact that the shaft will pull through the hole in the knuckle, trust me when I say I'm the last dude that is going to spit venom at anyone on here, i ask for help quite often too because there are things i've never touched in the 14 years I've owned my 78. I have had to replace the shafts on my D44 30+ times so I thought I could lend a hand here. Chill out and stop putting your own venom on everyones posts, you will have a lot more fun here.




Now, start out with a very thin chisel or strong putty knife, work your way around with a hammer tapping the knife/chissel in. Start at the 12:00 position, go to 6:00, then 9:00, then 3:00, then 7:00, then 1:00 and so on, the gap will open up a little bit at a time but you have to go side to side or top to bottom, it needs to come off square/evenly, not at an angle. good luck. Oh and please, please, please make sure the bronco is sitting firmly on a high quality set of jack stands, don't use the jack (only as a backup), you are going to need to really get under there and swing away like it just said something about yo momma.

I said thank for your post, I did not mean all responses just the ones that basically said just remove it it's not that hard, it was more of the tone of the post than the content.


The later posts like your own explained a lot more in detail what I should do, that was all I was asking for.

As for my comments, if you check my post count I have a fair number of posts and have not complained about tone or content before for myself but I have seen others chastised and commented on those occasions.

Now if the 80 to 96 forums are 100 times worse that doesn't make it right it just makes it rude.

I guess for me it kind of hits a sore spot because I think one of the biggest problems with our modern society is the dwindling civility to each other and the politeness that comes from it.
 

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I understand Ned, I just didn't, and still don't see the tone you're talking about. i think when they say "oh it's easy", they mean that you won't need to take it to a mechanic, you can do it yourself, plus your original post didn't exactly explain what it was that you were struggling with.

Did you end up getting the spindle off?
 
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