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Discussion Starter #1
Battery is good. When key is turned to start, the is one click, nothing else. Headlights are bright and do not dim when key is turned. Solenoid? Starter? Happened all of a sudden.

Thanks in advance.
 

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Is they key hard to turn? Also see if you can get someone to jump the post or jump it yourself off the solenoid.
 

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could be a bunch of things, i had the issue in the past ant it was a bad battery cable
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Is they key hard to turn? Also see if you can get someone to jump the post or jump it yourself off the solenoid.
key turns normally. all other electrical seems to work. I can hear a distinct click when the key is turned to start, but no clicking, and the lights do not dim at all.
 

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Hmm check the post and clamps on the battery.
 
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hey my truck just had the exact thing happen....i went to start it andf all the electrical works and it just does one click wen cranked.....it was really cold where i was like 20 degrees..so i just waited until it was warmer later on that day and i tried again and it started right up. i have no clue what it was but it had to do with something being cold.
 

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key turns normally. all other electrical seems to work. I can hear a distinct click when the key is turned to start, but no clicking, and the lights do not dim at all.
Since it clicks, it sounds like the key switch is the rest of the control circuit is working.

The headlights are bright, so a bad battery seems unlikely. Measure the voltage anyway.

A bad solenoid can click, but not make the connection. Turn the key to the "Start" position & test for 12 volts measured between the load terminal on the solenoid (The post with the heavy cable from the solenoid to the starter) & negative on the battery. If it clicks but reads 0 with the key at "Start", then replace the solenoid.

Check the negative cable where it attaches to the block. Sometimes it will be bad or loose at that connection, but still ok at the frame. That would allow headlights, etc., to work, but not the starter. That cable can be one piece with a ring for the block & another for the frame, or a cable from battery to frame or block with a short cable between frame & block.

Check the cable from the solenoid to the starter, make sure it's in good shape, not corroded or burned against the exhaust. Also see that the starter mounting bolts & nut for the cable are tight.

My guess you'll find the problem at one of those locations, but if that's all good, it's probably time to pull the starter & have it tested.
 

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I had the same sympton and the reply above is the answer. The terminals of the named wires may appear clean and in good shape, but the wire inside the plastic sheaf may be corroded. Replacing those cables is a good (cheap) way of starting to isolate the problem before buying a starter motor, however, you may find in the end that it is the starter!!!! That was the case with me, but at least I have new cables as well as a starter!

The easiest way to check the starter is to whip it off and attach it to a batt (keep you foot on the starter when you do it) and see if it spins.
 

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I just went through the same thing, would start in 32 degree weather same symptom as you had in colder. I bet the strter is going. Mine was . Replaced it and that fixed it. Make sure you take it easy on the bolts, they snap real easy i had to use a torch and heat them before they would break free.

Kent
 

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The Anti Yam!
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As stated, check the wire running from the starter relay to the starter.
But it sounds like a fried starter to me. Most autoparts stores will test them for free. 3 bolts (2 to hold it, 1 for the wire) and it's off.

You can also try shorting the starter relay to make sure it is not it.
 

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Bronc Bustin:

More then likely it's a "starter relay" where the battery and ignition cables/wires converge on the right inside fender near the battery, failure is common. :banghead

They're cheap enough at any autoparts chain. Make sure you have grounded the NEG battery cable to the frame, just bare it and expose the wire inside and there may be some pre-exsisting holes in the frame in that area and just make a hold down clamp, grounding helps with elec. continuity and the BKO will thank you for it.

Assuming your BKO is an EFI, if the key needs to be turned ALL the way over getting harder and harder to turn and start it could mean the ignition actuator inside the steering wheel/column is broken or about to, check thread "1985 steering column ignition actuator replacemt" or something close to that, it has quite a few pictures and how to fix etc. "search".

How old is your starter and alternator, jsu a thought.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Hey, you know what I just realized.

Thats a 94 with a gear reduction starter that has a solenoid/relay on the starter. I have no personal experience with that system, so my previouse advice may be useless to you.
 

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i had this prob, if urs is an auto tranny, there is a pin assy making it so u cant start in drive. a temporray loophole around the prob is turn truck to on, and shift to low/first on the tranny. then back to park. then try. it is a cheap fix, just some wires and pins on tranny. tell me if this works
 

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i had this prob, if urs is an auto tranny, there is a pin assy making it so u cant start in drive. a temporray loophole around the prob is turn truck to on, and shift to low/first on the tranny. then back to park. then try. it is a cheap fix, just some wires and pins on tranny. tell me if this works
sounds like you are talking about the neutral safety switch...had mine go out and could not start my bronco either, iirc they are not very expensive and easy to change.

but do you realize this thread is 5 months old?
 
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