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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright i got the wedges all ground down, now,and we are about to put the axle in the truck so we could tack the wedges. WE have talked about setting the caster so much i thnk we have ourselves a little confused about setting it.

Ok here is what i have to work i have 3 sets of different degreed c-bushings, i have a set of 2 Degree, 4 degree, and 7 degree. I have extended arms as well, with around 6 in, of lift.

i plan on using the 4 degree bushing when done, and i plan on having around 7.5 or 8 degree's of caster.

We have a magnetic angle finder so that takes out the guess work. If i read right we need to put the angle finder on the lower kingpin cap.??

Here is what we are thinkin, if lets say we put the 4 degree c-bushing in there, and then rotate the pinion up 3.5 degrees and tack it there that should give us the 7.5 degrees of caster that we are looking for correct???When the truck is at ride height of course.

Any help asap would be great i guess we will think about it some more and start with making the steering untill we clarify this. thanks kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
ok i think we got it figured out. if we want the axle itself with to have 4 degrees of caster in the end, and the truck to have a total of 8 degrees, we would put the 4 degree wedges in there, then rotate the axle with weight and springs on it to 8 degress caster and then with the 4 degree bushings it will give us 4 on the axle and 4 on the bushing, t total 8 is this corect?
 

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Be carefull....

No matter what you do when "mocking" up if you put in 2* or 4* bushings once you put the angle finder on the bottom of the king pin (by the way I suggest removing the grease zerk fitting) if you set the angle finder on 4* then you will have 4* with the wedges you used in the mock up - full stop -

You did not say what arms you are using they also have built in * changes usually.

I would suggest the following
1) have the truck at final ride height - as close as you can - remember to compensate for coil spring compressed ride height, not out of box - to get the axle at the proper distance from the frame - although the spring will not be used at this time.
2) set the axle at final ride height - both from ground and from frame - adjust for tire diameter
3) use the 2* wedges now - that way if you lower height in the future you could go to stock wedges - or if you raise height n futues you could go to 4 or 6* wedger - just more options.
4) set, clamp or bolt rear arm in position install in bracket - bolt could tack or clamp but put one bolt in
measure many times - I would measure off of the front rear leaf bolt as they are the same on both sides - measure to the axle and the rear arm mount
5) I assume that the upper coil mounts are on - use a string bob to be sure axle is in correct possition - to do this I would have the lower coil mount on to center the plumb bob - you can see how I did this on mine -
6) ceck and remeasure everything then tack

have fun good luck :beer
 

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RCcola55 said:
ok i think we got it figured out. if we want the axle itself with to have 4 degrees of caster in the end, and the truck to have a total of 8 degrees, we would put the 4 degree wedges in there, then rotate the axle with weight and springs on it to 8 degress caster and then with the 4 degree bushings it will give us 4 on the axle and 4 on the bushing, t total 8 is this corect?

your thinking too much - as I wrote above - no matter what you have in the mock up the caster will be what the magnetic guage say's remember you are seting caster at what the guage say's so it does not matter what else you have done - it is what the gusge say's it is - again use the 2* wedge bushings so you have future adjustment - you could use the 4* (same reason - then you could go down to 2* or stock and up to 6* latter) - If you are going to use the 6" superflex coils (the one's most of us use ) I would use the 2* for my mock up
 
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