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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, I am I think ready to tackle the removal of my lower intake to get to my broken exhaust manifold. Does anyone have a video or step by step instructions in doing this. I have done all of my own work on the FSB so far but this looks a little intimidating with all of this fuel injection and its wiring. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
ledroyjr
 

· Moderator and Scrounger Extraordinaire
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Its mich simpler than you think. Make syre the battery is unhooked. Once the upper intake is off, find the schrader valve (looks like a short tire valve stem), and bleed the pressure off. Then, undo the four bolts holding the fuel rail to the manifold. Carefully lift up on one end of the fuel rail, trying to keep the injectors in the fuel rail as you move towards the back. You can leave it all hooked up and move it to the driver side of the engine. Then unbolt the intake and EGR tube.

If its never been apart, a good rust penetrant is your best friend.
 

· Moderator and Scrounger Extraordinaire
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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If you have to disconnect something, label both ends with a piece of tape, marked alphabetically. A pairs with A, B with B, and so on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok, I have gotten most of the bolts out of the lower intake, I see that part of the exhaust manifold is behind the bracket that hold the alternator and smog pump. I have removed a nut and two bolts from the bracket, but does not budge am I not seeing an additional bolt somewhere. Additionally the smog pump is still attached, long bolt on top I cannot seem to get a wrench onto it for removal is there a way to remove without removing the pully. Any help, thanks in advance.
ledroyjr
 

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1985 Ford Bronco. H.O. 300 I6. ZF5 transmission. 4.11 gears with Detroit True Trac. Nodular 9".
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163896


These are the 3 bolts that hold on the alternator/smog pump bracket.
Unless the EFI bracket is different, you shouldn't need to remove the alternator. I have EFI manifolds on mine and can install and remove them without touching the alternator.
Yes, you'll have a little more room. But it shouldn't be necessary.

However, if you do need to, it should just be the 3 bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok the bottom hole in your circle is the one I did not have out, it is off now. The other thing is mine had a stud in the upper most right hole in your picture not in the circle but on the exhaust large nut 15mm holding the front exhaust manifold on. Got that removed and now the manifold is off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hi getting ready to install the new exhaust manifolds and the lower intake, I have gone back in with studs in the head as you all recommended. Question I have today before I start is, is any sealant required with the gaskets. I have been trying to find the torque sequence for the exhaust and lower intake manifolds, my 4.9l is fuel injected so far all of the diagrams I have seen are for carb and bolt pattern seems to be different on them. My bolt pattern is different than in the engine picture above by abandoned bronco. Any help would be appreciated and thanks in advance.
ledroyjr
 

· Super Moderator
1985 Ford Bronco. H.O. 300 I6. ZF5 transmission. 4.11 gears with Detroit True Trac. Nodular 9".
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So, the torque sequence should be very similar. The EFI head has 3 extra bolt holes that are simply for hanging the manifolds from during installation. The carb'd manifold is a single piece (since the intake and exhaust bolt together) so it's much easier to manage. However, with the EFI, you have 3 manifolds, since there's 2 exhaust and 1 intake, so the extra bolt holes help keep it all in place during installation.


Here's the sequence that Ford lists:

165688


Torque specs are 20 - 25 ftl/bs.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Torque sequence???! I just finger tight em all and then work from front to back then move to the lower row. Before installing the intake, mock up the exhaust to make sure a stud isnt too long. On my clifford headers, the lower front stud needed a half inch trimmed off.

If using a paper gasket (not recommended) use a copper spray sealant.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hi all, Ok I have the new exhaust manifolds and the old welded lower intake manifold back on and torqued. I ordered new fuel injectors the old ones probably original look kid of crusty. Is there anything more than just inserting them into the intake and then lining up the fuel rail to them. Thanks in advance for your help. ledroyjr
 
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