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Discussion Starter #1
I have been working on a dana 60 front install and am ready to find a shop to help...

Does anyone know of a good shop in the San Francisco area - I live 20 miles north of San Francisco - Novato.

I am ready to take my 92 Bronco in for help - but do not know who I could trust with the swap. I have the Dana (1976 hp completely rebuilt) and Duffy radius arms.

ok I am trowing in the towel .... but I will not give up... I want the 60 on the truck...

thanks
John
[email protected]
415 595 5751:whiteflag
 

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75.5-77 Ford low pinion drivers side open knuckle disc brake 30 spline inners, 19 spline outers, outer knuckle spindle pilot hole is smaller than 78+ axle and is therefore notched to allow 1480 series U-joint tp pass through.

I don't think you have a high pinion axle...thats the axle you have if its a 1976 model..its less desired...
 

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plug ugly said:
where are you at in the install? Have you started or are you just wanting one in there?
Good question.:popc1:

And given Inkdawg's observation, perhaps it's best if a shop tackles this for him. When I read the post I was thinking perhaps he doesn't even have a D60 but rather a 44.

Would be nice to know what the plan is, where at in progress, and what the issue is.

Can't help with shops to do this in cali. So I guess I'm just wasting his time.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Plug Ugly - Chris told me you might be able to help

History - 1992 bronco, I have a 1978 HP dana 60 and(completly rebuilt by Dynatrac) & James Duff arms. I also have a completly rebuild Dana 44 (ford complete with the welded on, not cast in, wedges).
Issues
1) I do not feel comfortable in determining the proper place to weld the wedges on to the D60 - I have a set of wedges that I ground out and matched to the D44, I used outside calipers on the D44 to determine the amount of material to remove from the wedges for proper overall outside diameter.
I thought I would just put the D44 on as a start (but really want the 60 on)....
2) I have tried to bolt the Duff arm head onto the D44 using the stock C cap but can only get to within 1/2" of the head to cap - need to get them to touch in order to bolt the spring pad down. I am at 100+ foot lbs on the tourqe wench and the bolts "pop" in the threads.

So
option #1 do you know of a shop or person who could properly locate & weld the wedges on the D60? then help to just bolt the Duff heads on the D60 ? The stock C caps look correct - Once I have the D60 with wedges and Duff head & C caps bolted on properly I could take a shot at installing it.
Option #2 Just someone to help me figure out how to get the Duff heads & C caps on the D44 untill I can build a "Jig" to properly place the wedges on the D60 - although I worry abot doing this.

Thanks - I am getting tried of this project and just want it finished - so at this point I would even consider just having someone install the D60 if there is such a person near me I live in Novato Ca 20 miles north of San Francisco.

Thanks for your help
john [email protected] 510 923 7517 w 415 595 5751 cell
 

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woodydog said:
Thanks Plug Ugly - Chris told me you might be able to help

History - 1992 bronco, I have a 1978 HP dana 60 and(completly rebuilt by Dynatrac) & James Duff arms. I also have a completly rebuild Dana 44 (ford complete with the welded on, not cast in, wedges).
Issues
1) I do not feel comfortable in determining the proper place to weld the wedges on to the D60 - I have a set of wedges that I ground out and matched to the D44, I used outside calipers on the D44 to determine the amount of material to remove from the wedges for proper overall outside diameter.
I thought I would just put the D44 on as a start (but really want the 60 on)....
2) I have tried to bolt the Duff arm head onto the D44 using the stock C cap but can only get to within 1/2" of the head to cap - need to get them to touch in order to bolt the spring pad down. I am at 100+ foot lbs on the tourqe wench and the bolts "pop" in the threads.

So
option #1 do you know of a shop or person who could properly locate & weld the wedges on the D60? then help to just bolt the Duff heads on the D60 ? The stock C caps look correct - Once I have the D60 with wedges and Duff head & C caps bolted on properly I could take a shot at installing it.
Option #2 Just someone to help me figure out how to get the Duff heads & C caps on the D44 untill I can build a "Jig" to properly place the wedges on the D60 - although I worry abot doing this.

Thanks - I am getting tried of this project and just want it finished - so at this point I would even consider just having someone install the D60 if there is such a person near me I live in Novato Ca 20 miles north of San Francisco.

Thanks for your help
john [email protected] 510 923 7517 w 415 595 5751 cell

I would not go through the process twice...do it right the first time and use your 60...as far as welding them on the 60 look in this forum...i think some bolt it all together and put it under the bronco then get the caster set and pinion angle and tack the wedges then take it back apart and weld them on...that way you will limit something being off by seeing it on...and with the 60 king pin you have you will want the caster correct or you will get death wobble issues..how did you end up with 2 solids...im guessing you got the 44 then came across a deal on the 60...
 

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negative creep
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if you really want to go to a shop try WFO customs, in auburn? i believe. trevor has been good to us WT guys. i wish i lived closer, it doesn't sound like you are hung up too bad.
 

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do you have a welder and angle finder? If so, you can do the wedges yourself, its easy. Its pretty much described by Inkdawg.

BUT, thats all moot until you figure out whats wrong with the caps. Are you sure the bolts are just slightly misaligned thru the caps causing tension on the bolts, which is why you are torqued to 100 pounds? You may have to bore out the caps slightly. Otherwise, you have jacked the threadson the cage bracket.

THere are a couple options if you did. There is lots of info on this stuff here in this forum. Try searching for cage and duff arms, as well as coil sprung 60 stuff. There are lots of pics on my superford site too. Dont pay someone to do it, its really easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Pug Ugly
Thanks for the reply -
1) yes, have gas & arc & angle finder - in fact a prety good overall shop at home.
1a) over the last year + I have read & studied all articles I could find - bottom line, I know the steps. But I am still worried about the wedges -
Two comments -
1) I do not remember names, but - the article where they built the metal jig by using the D44 as a modle, I liked this as the jig assures the proper spacing and angles of wedges assuming you use the angle finder on the yoke, downside, the work to properly build the jig.... and I guess I could tac weld assemble check everything etc I like this plan best.
2) the Inkdawg article - if it is the one I am thinking about - it is ok, not much detail but I can fill in the blanks - this was my first attempt, my issues were a) I gould not get the caps to touch b) if the cap's would have touched, which they must in order to then bolt the spring tray so that I could position everything properly, the mock up, the wedges would have been so tight on the axel there would be no way to "rotate" the axle shaft to get proper yoke angle needed to tac weld the wedge for location prior to disasemble needed for full weld.. I guess I could marked wedge location disassemble spring & tray losen c cap rotate axle re-assebmle start over...until proper angle is acheived.

The bolt comment - I have built a lot of stuff in my life - no bolt misalignment, now it could be that I have a problem with the wedge bushings ??? the 100 lb's is the head & cap with bushing on axle I get to the 100lbs, it get's there easily but the cap is still within 1/2 inch and so I have to be doing omething wrong as this is on the D44, I suume that all wedge D44's have the same measurements? I could email you some pictures of the D44 and gap etc...

Bore out the caps - this discussion is bolting on to the D44 with factory welded on wedges - I will have to check tonoght but from memory I believe the distence between wedges valley to valley on the D44 is 5 1/4 " again I will check tonight it has been a long time since measuring - I used a large outside caliper normally used in measuring on a wood lathe but it gives an accurate measurement. Sorry a long way of saying I would not believe that I need to bore out the caps - it must be something else.

The last part - I have read everything I could find the reference to "cage" I do not know what cage i so I will go find it.

From the easy so do not pay - I agree, however, at ths point I just really want it done so hopefully since it is easy the cost would be reasonable .... and then I could be out wheeling instead of wrenching... or better yet I could be wrenching on another addition to my bronco..

So if you do know someone who could do this I would be very interested

thanks again:whiteflag
 

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You're right across the bridge from 10,000 tweeks who'll tell you they can do it. I'm in San Pablo, and I'll call a guy I know in San Leandro who owns an axle and differential shop. They do these all the time in his place, but its damn expensive. I'll get back to you. Maybe we can get a discount if we do both of ours or something. IF nothing else, I can help you a little with some of it. I did my jeeps axles, from junkyard crap to awesome crawlers with lockers. I'll post tommorow with more info. Don't be scared to do it yourself, the info is on here.
 

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As far as easing your mind on the C bushings and caps....Several people on here have had trouble with getting them to snug. not sure what all the issues were (aside from misaligned bolts which you say are not the issue), two things come to mind...make sure you have bushings installed front/back, top/bottom, and you must use white lithium, even while trial fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I will try "white lithium"
could be on to something here -
I never used any type of lubercant -
I did take note of the front /rear - top/bottom
but I have only done this with "dry" bushings -
now it sounds so logical metal against a hard plastic type of rubber with no lubercant and why does it not slip into place -

thanks
I may just do this myself yet ...

PS
If I get the D60 on let me know if anyone out there would like a completely rebuilt D44, 5:38 ARB,. 8lug setup ready to go..... yes I had an 8 lug set up put on it as my next project will be a new rear end - I will need this for my 38's
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey - thanks for the CAGE tip -
I looked at their web site - sounds too easy
I will look up info here -
But sounds like:
1) drill & tap the weld on bracket for the spring pad
2) set axle under truck with bracket sug fit on axle
3) ensure axle is centerred properly under front
4) Question - I guess I could just for start leave the current stock TTB springs hanging from spring tower and set spring on spring pad, no real weight on spring yet - just use to ensure axle is properly alined
5) gently adjust/rotate axle using an angle finder on the differential yoke to get the same angle as the original TTB had prior to disassemble.
6) double check to ensure coil spring pad is level and proper yoke angle is set -
7) tac weld bracket enough to set spring weight on axle
8) pick up rear of radius arm - adjst large bolt to within a few turns tof full - to alow for future fine tune - then bolt & weld rear radius arm bracket
9) check all
10) disassemble and completely weld the front radius arm bracket to axle
11 reassemble done -
I could then switch out the 1992 coil towers for the older tall towers and install new front coil springs
then go figure the steering issues but at this point the axle would be installed

In saying this - this is basically the Inkdawg approach isn't it?

Looks like I am back in the fabercation business again...
I will try this with the wedges this weekend
thanks:chili:
 

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good for you.

Sounds like you might be kinda like me...I get rather frustrated when things aren't working out/not going where I planned. And I plan A LOT.

Your D44 also sounds familiar.

Stepping back and getting some help often ends up being the answer. I don't know if the white lithium grease will close that gap, but I do know that dry fitting these bushings was a no go for me. You need the white lithium for final install anyway, nothing better at stopping squeaks with metal. Also, it is imperative you cross tighten the bolts slowly to draw everything in equally.
 

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you are on the right track it seems. Not sure why they wont fit the 44, aside from making sure the bushings are oriented correctly.

I would set the caster (weld the wedges on) with whatever suspension you plan on running. Put the angle finder on the bottom of the knuckle.

I might be able to help, but it wont be until april
 
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