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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I finally got my 37" Goodyear Wrangler MTR Kevlars installed on 17x9 Ion wheels. Very good service except for 1 item. Near the end of the install I was called over, we had ourselves a spinning wheel stud. Even with trying to reseat the stud on the backside (not easy, you really can't get to it), it would no where near allow the lug nut to come off.

Home now (good thing I have 8 lugs), and Discount at least mentioned that if I have to take it to a mechanic for removal, and the rim is damaged, they would take care of that. But, I'm thinking I might be able to remove the whole front 4x4 hub with tire attached and then lightly tack weld the shoulder of the stud on the backside so I can get that lug nut off if need be.

But here's the question, if that's possible (think it is), why in the world is that lug nut on there tight enough to require a tack weld to remove it unless the Discount installer was not careful on this one and crossthreaded and then air gunned it on (which also created enough torque to bust it out the back of the hub)? You should be able to remove the nut by hand, but when you do get a little grab in the hub and stud it would not be anywhere near coming free, and the stud is rust free and fairly new, and the lug nuts were supplied new by discount.
 

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Local # 40 Boilermakers
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15,787 Posts
I wouldn't tack it Shado I would just knock it off and replace it. I had a similar problem and a 3lb beater solved it, that and a new stud. I do think that an air gun could be the culpret there, if its that hard to get loose I doubt it was put on the right way.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Well, wait a sec, beat on what? Are you saying yes, should be able to get the whole tire/hub/rotor off with removing the 4x4 spindle stuff, but then beat on the back side? I'd have to grind the shoulder down first, so why not tack weld it and then go to the front and remove the nut so I can prove potential crossthreading causing this issue?

I've done a lot of work on the truck lately and don't want to mess with this, so I'm thinking of taking it to a mechanic and talking over a plan. If I find out it was crossthreading I intend to go to discount to pay for everything.

Keep in mind too, unless I get a little bigger shoulder/knurl 9/16ths stud, this hole is now wasted, so I might need a new hub.
 

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shibby
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4,828 Posts
You won't be able to take the wheel/hub/rotor off as one unit because you still need to take the brake caliper off.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
You won't be able to take the wheel/hub/rotor off as one unit because you still need to take the brake caliper off.
yea, that's what it was. I knew something was impeding.

This is going to a shop, I'm not trying to deal with this with a brand new wheel. I'll tell them to hold that stud to help prove what the issue was. I'd be surprised if they can get this fixed without fubaring the wheel.
 

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Heavy and slow fun
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1,152 Posts
Those bastards!!! You may be better to take it somewhere and have discount pay for it all.What if you take it apart and the hub is egged out and wont hold a new stud? Ya never know. They probably did cross thread it and ran it down with the impact.At least they said something about it.I had someone break a stud off at a tire place and not mention it.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
yea, I'm pretty pissed about it today after having some time to think about it. They were able to get the stud back in somewhat from the backside and yet no where near enough to unthread the lug nut. There is just no way that would be the case unless it's crossthreaded most of the way in.

Before you come over this afternoon I'm going to try and get down to Russels auto service/Lafayette 4x4 and talk with them about it. What pisses me off the most is that you know it took me months to get these friggin' rims, so if Russel's says whatever they might be able to do will almost certainly bugger the wheel I need to have Discount order another one now and hope it doesn't take months to get it.

I have to do something quickly though because right now any issue on that passenger side and I'm screwed, no way to work on a hub, brake caliper, pull the tire or anything.
 

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Administrator
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22,857 Posts
yea, that's what it was. I knew something was impeding.

This is going to a shop, I'm not trying to deal with this with a brand new wheel. I'll tell them to hold that stud to help prove what the issue was. I'd be surprised if they can get this fixed without fubaring the wheel.
If they can get to the backside of the spindle and remove the nuts then the brake caliper will come off with the caliper bracket since you have an older solid axle, it would not work with the ttb due to the caliper bracket is part of the arm.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
If they can get to the backside of the spindle and remove the nuts then the brake caliper will come off with the caliper bracket since you have an older solid axle, it would not work with the ttb due to the caliper bracket is part of the arm.
I've got the chevy stuff so there is no way the caliper bracket is coming off without removing the hub
 

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Administrator
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I've got the chevy stuff so there is no way the caliper bracket is coming off without removing the hub
they are going to have to remove the hub/spindle/caliper mount plate together, it can be done...but i think it would be easier to do like you suggest, tack weld the stud and go from there. Do you have the dust shields on your front axle?
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
they are going to have to remove the hub/spindle/caliper mount plate together, it can be done...but i think it would be easier to do like you suggest, tack weld the stud and go from there. Do you have the dust shields on your front axle?
The chevy brake caliper mounting plate is basically a big round dust shield. I'm thinking they may have to drill the whole thing out from the front. I'll update a bit later today once I talk to the shop and see what they say. Even that might be a PITA since the stud will want to spin.:banghead:cry
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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Discussion Starter #14
that's a very good idea. And on my old steel wheels I could have actually probably pulled that off. This new aluminum wheel the lugs are pretty deeply recessed and actually are a special thin lug and lug socket in order to get to them. These wheels are definitely more bling, less trail happy. I like simplicity and this is another worry, but I guess if the lug is put on right with proper torque in the first place I should not have any issues. So anyway, there is no way I could get to hardly any of the lug with the dremel.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Um, where is the "this thread is worthless without pics" smilie?


:toothless
whatcha wanna see, me spinning the wheel stud:toothless:toothless

The local auto shop is willing to try removal. They said they would likely us an air chisel or little special grinder they have to slide down along the lug nut.

But they were pretty certain there will be some damage to the wheel. They are also most likely going to need to replace my hub, and of course that would also need new inner/outer bearings and a new wheel seal.:doh0715:
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
How about if you snatch block off of a pole and winch it off? :goodfinge
hey, aren't you supposed to be coming over, not posting on the internet? You remember how to get here?:goodfinge

I'm gonna miss my Rok's.:cry I like the new tires, they are quieter, but they really don't ride much better than the Iroks did.

Edit: what I mean is the tire ride/handling is about the same. Less road noise, and the new setup seems to have balanced out much better, but I really won't know that for sure until I get this stud fixed. I don't want to get going much past 60 with this issue. I still needed 4oz, 3.5oz, 9 oz, and 7.5oz
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,038 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Put tape on the wheel to protect it and drill the stud.
yea, that's the other option that will be discussed. Discount wants us to do whatever we can to protect the wheel and if that doesn't work, then so be it. The problem with drilling the stud is that I have to have a hole drilled in the lug nut socket so that you can put it over the nut to keep it from spinning. So this now likely becomes a 2 man job. The stud is loose so not only will it spin, but it wobbles. The stud is grade 8 I believe, so I can't imagine it would drill easily. And it's long.
 
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