Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone! Wanted to drop in and introduce myself. I picked up a 91' EB 5.0 (carb'd), manual (trans and tcase) that's in need of quite a bit of care. I've got some pretty big plans for it beyond just bringing it back to DD level of reliability and driveability too, biggest of which is potentially a 4BT swap.

I'll be poking around here looking for help with fixing all the wiring (and frankly many other) issues that it has and getting it daily ready. Eventually I'll be reading and asking questions to those people who have done diesel swaps once I'm at that point.

I just bought the machine and so far haven't done anything other than drive it home and have a massive grey smoke cloud bellow out from under the vehicle just up the street from the house. :banghead Made it the few hundred feet to the house with no drama so I hope I didn't hurt anything. I've got oil on the way to change everything front to back, will be picking up coolant and a compression tester to verify the head gaskets are still good. Hopefully I can get it running again in time to get inspected since I only have a certain amount of time in NC to plate and inspect after purchase. Haven't had time to look yet but I'm really hoping it was just a hose popping, but I guess I'll find out.

Once I stop with the boring repairs and start with the interesting things I'll make a thread!

-B
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
23,336 Posts
Yo B,
Welcome to our Big Bronco site where we try to DIY!
So a previous owner or shop converted the 91 to carb!


Here is a summary of smoke symptoms and causes:
Less $ first (less worries as well!)
Blue/Gray Smoke:
PCV System: A stuck closed PCV valve will cause excessive crankcase pressure resulting in blue/gray smoke.
Oil burning in the combustion chamber. Pull a few spark plugs & check iaw Spark Plug Diagnostic Chart
http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/spark-plug-fault-diagnosis/
Oil Deposits Symptoms: Oily coating caused by poor oil control. Oil is leaking past worn valve guides or piston rings into the combustion chamber. Causes hard starting and misfiring.

Valve Seals: Leaking valve seals will cause blue/gray smoke at startup because oil leaks past the seals into the cylinder after the engine shut down.

Valve Guides: Excessive clearance between the valve stem and the valve guide allows oil to leak past the gap into the cylinder.

Piston Rings: Worn or damaged piston rings will cause blow-by resulting in blue/gray smoke.

Worn Cylinder Walls: Worn cylinder walls cause blow-by resulting in blue/gray smoke.

Here is the 1990 F Series/Bronco Pre-Delivery Shop & Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM), Partial by member Kingfish999 in Google Drive (similar to your 91) @ https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0BzRTW4yeT2u4UkhzR0ZydDd3MzA?usp=sharing&tid=0BzRTW4yeT2u4NXB6NW5neFRoZGc
This has much info applicable to your 91.
Slow scrolling for my slow Comcast Highest Cost Blast Internet..
Find page # of item desired in contents, then flip screen flip down like spinning a bearing then stopping periodically to see what page you are on.


Forum faqs @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/165569-common-replies-faqs.html
... includes for example;
How to use search (Advanced) @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/19-suggestions-feedback-site-help/62157-how-use-search-advanced.html

Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/21-noobie-bronco-tech-questions-flame-free-zone/131287-baba-looeys-favorite-fsb-links-lots-lots-tech-links.html

How to Post Pics @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/19-suggestions-feedback-site-help/6204-how-post-pictures.html ...The crew here likes pics!!!
etc.

Free registration for some wiring diagrams (86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96), same as by Ford @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products and Turbochargers | TSB's & Wiring Diagrams

➡ Please find time to participate and VOTE in our Full-Size of the Month (F.O.T.M.) & Full-Size of the Year (F.O.T.Y.) Contests @ https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/27-f-o-t-m-voting/
Contests will be held in JANUARY, MARCH, MAY, JULY & SEPTEMBER. Each month in-between will be used for nominating contestants to run in the following Month.
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes⚠ They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!
Then get ready for the Full-Size of the Year (F.O.T.Y.).
GL with the inspection!
Al
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thank you for the welcome and the info guys! I do appreciate it.

It was definitely a coolant issue that I'm still trying to track down (had family come in from out of town so I haven't had much time). Passed a compression test so I'm hoping it's the not the head gaskets (I realize the outside could have still blown out) but the hoses look good and none of them were blown off. I'm hoping it's something simple like the radiator cap which is in pretty sad shape. Regardless I'll be chasing that down and fixing up a few things so I can get it inspected and make it reliable enough to drive. Definitely need to adjust that carb too. It's idling way too high and the plugs show it's running super rich. Turns out it's a Holley 3310 which is a 750cfm carb which probably isn't helping anything.

I'll definitely get some pics up once I get a few decent ones!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Quick update from tonight's wrenching. Found the coolant leak-Drivers front freeze plug blew clean out!
I'm hoping I can change that one out without lifting the motor off the mounts but I guess I'll find out.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
23,336 Posts
Yo NC,
Freeze Plug Replacement in a 94 5.8; "...I recently had to replace one of my freeze plugs, the one behind the power steering pump.
Take a small chistel or blunt punch and put it inside the top inside corner where the freeze plug bends. And knock it till it's horizontal. Then take some Channel Locks and just wiggle/rip it out. The removal is MUCH easier than the installation...

Just use the brown gasket maker and a socket that just fits inside and just pound it home.. I doubt the others have any more room to swing a hammer than the one I did. I ended up putting a 3ft long piece of pipe inside the socket and hitting it where I had room, like a big extension..."
Source: by RobertF at FSB

Installation Tips; "...You may be able to install a new frost plug just by using a hole saw to drill access for a socket extension through one of the plastic inner fenderwells.Use a punch in the top edge of the old frost plug and whack itso the bottom lip comes out far enough for you to clamp a pair of vicegrips on. Once you have it with the vicegrips you'll be able to lever it out no problems. Loctite for the frost plug, ultracopper for the rubber expanding repair plug.
Source: by Sixlitre


Replacement; "...The one behind the engine mount is gonna be a huge pain to do without pulling or at least lifting the motor. Go in from the bottom, after draining the water in the radiator, drain the block as well, or just pop the plug and be ready to get hosed. A screw driver or punch to knock it sideways so you can grab it with pliers is the picture purfect way to do it, but its between the engine and the mount so I really doubt your gonna be able to do it. Once you do get all of it out install by taking a socket a little smaller then the plug, some RTV around the edge, and tap her home..."
Source: by 81Bronk36 (1BadBronco, Matt K) at FSB
Replacement; Steve83 wrote here that There are ~8 freeze plugs (and a few bore plugs that look identical) in a V8 block, plus 1 in each end of each head. Yardape said in same thread; Ive done it that way before, undo the mount on the side you are working, lift the engine a bit. The remove the motor mount from the block and your set. To really make your life easier you can remove the exhaust manifold. crazyhorse85 wrote; Most of the time you won't have to pull the engine....Like yardape was sayin i've changed mine with it still sitting in the truck.....Take the manifold or header loose and loosen the mount jack her up alittle remove the mount and there should be enough room to operate....One suggestion replace with brass freeze plugs they last alot longer and don't corriode as bad or fast as steel.....And don't let autozone try to talk you into the rubber exspandable one they don't work worth a crap....
Source: by members at Ford Bronco Zone Forums
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
I'm in a (no longer) small town about 40 minutes south east of Charlotte.

Thanks for the condensed info. Much easier to read that than 10 separate threads. I dropped by advance today and much to my displeasure they only had the expandable plugs. I'm going to try one more place, but I figure it's only gotta make it a few months to maybe a year at most till the cummins goes in anyway and it seems like most people at least get that much out of them. Either way I'll be keeping a spare expandable and the needed tools on board just in case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Something in the fuel and/or vacuum system is kicking my butt. I tried to actually tune the carb tonight- at least the idle part since it's insisting on idling too high. I got a better reading on the vacuum gauge (just under 15 after adjustments) but I still can't get it to reliably idle under 1000 to 1100. By reliably I mean when I want it to. Occasionally it will decide it wants to idle at 750-800, but only when it feels like it. I also got a massive headache and got slightly nauseas from the fumes-a first for me- so I'm beginning to wonder if there's more to this than the carb just being too big.

As far as good news, I got the oil changed in the 8.8 and it didn't look too bad in there. Turns out it still has 3.55 gears in it and unfortunately no surprise locker or lsd lol. Got the transmission fluid changed out and rebuilt the shifter. The shifter bushings were literally gone and I was less than pleased with the amount of material I found on the magnetic drain bolt. However, it's shifting quite a bit better now so I'll take it. Progress is progress. I really want to figure out the high idle, excessive fumes and rich running condition issues though. I'd really like to be able to drive the thing without coming back in the house absolutely stinking.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top