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Discussion Starter #1
My 87 5.0 efi starts and idles around 1000 but if I drive or rev it the idle runs 1700 or so in park. Rebing it wont bring it down but putting it in drive does. I did a KOEO tet and came up with
67 that does not make sense for a truck as it is a C error with the a/c clutch switch
84 witch is the one I am thinking is related EGR vent fault
then the 10 seperator code and it gave me continuous codes
33 EGR not closing properly
29 Insufficient input from the Vehicle Speed
Sensor (VSS) ( my speedo gear is not right for 35" tires an 4.56 gears ?)

No check engine light but thinking it may fail CA smog I am past due for?
The Idle needsto be addressed anyway.
 

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Im looking at a codes for a newer bronco but 67 is MLPS
84 and 33 for egr and 29 is PSOM (which could be the tires). Id look for cracked vacuum lines for a high idle though
 

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yo birch,
Usually a bad or a good IAC would result in a low, erratic idle..my 96 had a good IAC, but the throttle body hloes were mostly clogged... have been using a TOP TIER Gas (Shell) but now I am certain the station owners are subbing non-Shell gas in their tanks)
However, I have heard of a bad IAC causing a high idle.
Read this by Mike:
Ford vehicles with an Idle Air Control Motor (called IAC) that have idle problems and sometimes noise concerns can be diagnosed in the following manner. For high idle problems, try unplugging the IAC motor. If the idle drops, its usually due to an input signal to the computer which results in the computer raising the idle speed. If this is the case, look at all of the computer inputs to make sure everything is up to par. If the engine RPM does not drop when the IAC motor is disconnected, then either the IAC motor is not functioning properly, or, there is a vacuum leak in the engine. Stop the engine, remove the IAC motor and block off the passages. Restart the engine to see if there is any change in engine RPM. An idle speed higher than base idle specs indicates a vacuum leak. If the engine RPM is at base idle specs, then
the IAC motor is bad. Resistance specs are 7-13 ohms. A good resistance reading does not necessarily mean that the IAC motor is good. Occasionally, an IAC motor will become weak, and will actually bypass too much air, causing a high idle condition even though everything else is operating properly. Diagnosing an IAC motor and its ... read more here

and; "start the vehicle and bring the engine up to operating temperature. Allow the engine to idle without any driver input to the throttle or pedal. Go under the hood, and disconnect the electrical connector to the IAB (aka IAC). If the engine begins to stubble or stalls the IAB is functional and does not need to be repaired. If the engine idle does not change you should remove the IAB for inspection..." by Ryan M (Fireguy50) @ http://web.archive.org/web/20131025143319/http://oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=39

Try my Vacuum leak test at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=206824&highlight=Vacuum+Leak+Test;+idling
Post #11

This is by Ford "When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. ALWAYS SERVICE VACUUM LEAKS."

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84 EGR Vacuum Solenoid circuit failure; CHECK RESISTANCE OF EVR SOLENOID indicates a failure in the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) solenoid circuit/Damaged EVR solenoid; Open harness, Shorted harness, Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 at the breakout box and EVR circuit at the EVR solenoid vehicle harness connector. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms? No - SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components.
RERUN Quick Test. Yes - GO to DN13. DN13 CHECK EVR CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER OR GROUND. Key off. EVR solenoid disconnected. Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pins 37 and 57 at the breakout box. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pin 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box. Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms? No - SERVICE short circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components. RERUN Quick Test. If DTC is repeated, REPLACE EVR solenoid. Yes -REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT EVR solenoid. RERUN Quick Test. as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC pin instead; for instance - Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pin 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box.
Source: by miesk5 at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49351


TO HELP WITHOUT BOB;
Connector Pin Diagram
Source: by Fireguy50 (Ryan M) at http://web.archive.org/web/20080222061408im_/http://fordfuelinjection.com/images/eec04.gif
Connector LEGEND by Ryan @ http://web.archive.org/web/20110302111429/http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/truckpinouts.html

33 EGR valve opening not detected. DTC 33 is triggered when the EVP sensor is not closing;
Testing & Operation; "...The EGR Valve Position (EVP) sensor monitors the position of the EGR valve pintle. The EVP sensor converts the mechanical movement of the pintle into an electrical voltage signal which is relayed to the PCM. The EVP sensor is a linear potentiometer in which resistance varies with the EGR valve pintle movement.
Voltage is fed to the EVP by the signal return circuit. As the EGR is opened the EVP directs more voltage to the EEC and less down the voltage reference circuit. The EVP sensor provides the PCM with information on EGR flow and EGR system failures. The EVP should read between 0.24 and 0.67 volts at idle with a closed EGR valve..." read more
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://web.archive.org/web/20120121075714/http://www.oldfuelinjection.com/index.php?p=35 excerpts;
Damaged EVP sensor
•Corroded or dirty connector
•Damaged EGR valve
•Faulty Vacuum system
•Broken wire in harness
•Grounded harness
•Damaged Computer
I know you did the vac leak test, but pull vac hose off @ EVP - I pull em off and use the straw sucking test; one finger over one end; and... ya get the idea?



29; I'll look into this later or Monday because you do not have a PSOM in your 87 - for now, from Ford, Continuous Memory DTC 29 indicates that during the last 80 warm-up cycles, the PCM detected an error in the PSOM output signal. DTC 452 indicates the PCM detected an error in the PSOM output signal during the last 40 warm-up cycles.

Possible Causes:
◾Damaged Rear Anti-Lock Brake System (RABS).
◾Damaged PSOM.
◾Damaged harness circuits.
◾Damaged PCM.
-----

67 in KOEO & CM Neutral safety circuit failure

in KOER /C circuit was on during KOER Self-Test; see http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198577
 

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If you have an AOD transmission that code: 67 could be AC circuit failure or NSS BUT in some cases the column shift linkage could be out of sync with the transmission and if that's the case there's simple linkage adjustment (Haynes Manual) you can do underneath that would solve the code issue assuming you're having any issues "starting" the BKO and it may not be an NSS issue at all....

You can also pull off the EGR valve and clean out any carbon inside so that it "plunges" open/closed properly, check the condition of the rubber diaphragm and spring inside.

High idle could either be TPS or IAC so break out the multimeter and check voltage .....there's a ton of info on this subject but check Seattle FSB he has many original posts to help.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the info I have tested the tps and Iac and they were ok. I had cleaned the egr because the smog guy said it barley passed. My vac lines are brittle and have a couple rubber bandaids do I will replace those. Has anybody put new a diafram in their EGR? Anybody know of a write up of what size and how many feet of vac line? It would be nice to prebuy the stuff and replace it as I tear it out. Silicone is what I plan on replacing it with.My A/C compressor plug is the cause of the 67 code. I do remember the ABS light come on once but it was out the next time I drove it. Do repair shops high dollar diagnosis machines pinpoint this kind of issue or would I be paying someone to do all the tests the same way I would with my meter and a vac gauge. Is a smoke test worth paying for? I will replace vac lines first anyway they need it. Thank for alol the info It is apreciated.
 

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www.siliconeintakes.com has all you need to replace all those old brittle plastic and rubber vaccum lines, initial kit costs $54.00 and comes in 6 ft lengths in 4, 6,8 and 10 mm inside diameter sizes for each line application and will last indefinitely.

I replaced all mine ...www.supermotors.net/17604 just place the cursor on the video for title etc.


As for smog tests in Cali don't let anyone tell you that the silicone lines are incorrect. I had a go around with a Star Approved" smog & repair station and I wound up filing a compliant against the station manager and Bureau of Automotive Repair with the Dept. of Consumer Affairs who manages the BAR, got the manager fired in the end. The DOCA said the silicone lines are an acceptable replacement since there are no OEM parts available so if you ever need the DOCA persons name and number let me know if you have any problems etc., I don't have it right in front of me..

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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yo Birch,
As my buddy JK advised and shows!

Also see Vacuum Hose (Line) Replacement w/Rubber Hose in an 89 F 150 5.0; "...This should cover most 87-96 V8s (302\351); for the I6s (300)s the solenoids are in the same general area, as well as the valves. You can use this article as a basis to replace yours, just keep in mind it..."
Source: by Booba5185 (Matt) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=192382

also see info and pics by SeattleFSB @ http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=170303

see my Vacuum Leak Test @ http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=206824&highlight=Vacuum+Leak+Test;+idling

post #11
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I cleaned my IAC and throttle body and replaced the EGR vac silinoid and vac lines to the egr and the coffee can. It did not fix it though I sprayed carb cleaner around the vac lines to no avail. I suspect that I may have messed up my EGR when I cleaned it and the tube out a bit ago. Would this cause this issue? Starts and idle drops but if I drive or rev it idle goes up to 1500-1700. I did notice pumping the brakes causes it to go up.
 

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So you're saying you cleaned the EGR valve and tube going into the lower intake manifold...I can't imagine other than the EGR diaphragm is damaged in side or there's a small crack in the tube somewhere so you may have to use a pressure gauge.......

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Somewhere along while messing with this issue the idle went even higher like 2000. I removed the IAC blocked it and it idled good. I replaced it and it was back to 1400 that only happened after I put it in gear and back to park. I revisited my EGR and it was not as clean as I thought. I gave it a good cleaning it was all free and the idle now seems pretty good 800 -1000. BUT my KOEO codes have not changed. I am going to recheck my electrical readings and maybe just go in for smog and see what they say. I put a new muff on and it sounds nice.:banghead
 

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If you can show low income you can apply to the Bureau of Automotive Repair and get up to $500.00 from them for smog repairs but you have to take it to a "Star" approved smog & repair station.........you'll either get it fixed for free or maybe 20% of the cost.

Look it up under the DMV website, print an application then "mail" it in.


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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My 87 5.0 efi starts and idles around 1000 but if I drive or rev it the idle runs 1700 or so in park. Rebing it wont bring it down but putting it in drive does. I did a KOEO tet and came up with
67 that does not make sense for a truck as it is a C error with the a/c clutch switch
84 witch is the one I am thinking is related EGR vent fault
then the 10 seperator code and it gave me continuous codes
33 EGR not closing properly
29 Insufficient input from the Vehicle Speed
Sensor (VSS) ( my speedo gear is not right for 35" tires an 4.56 gears ?)

No check engine light but thinking it may fail CA smog I am past due for?
The Idle needsto be addressed anyway.
Sounds like vacuum leak..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The Idle is sounding good the continuous codes reset and gave me the 11 all good code but 67 and 84 the EGR venting code still came up. On a KOEO test it van tell if its venting? No check engine light. Will the code come up on the smog machine and make me fail?
 

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yo b.
DTC 84: CHECK RESISTANCE OF EVR SOLENOID

indicates a failure in the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR); also called EGR Vacuum Solenoid solenoid circuit
Damaged EVR solenoid; Open harness, Shorted harness, Damaged Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

Key off. Disconnect EVR solenoid. Measure solenoid resistance. Resistance Specification, 20 to 70 ohms.

Is resistance within specification ? Yes - GO to DN11,.
No - REPLACE EVR solenoid assembly. RERUN Quick Test.

DN11 CHECK VPWR CIRCUIT VOLTAGE, Key on, engine off. EVR solenoid disconnected. Measure voltage between battery negative post and VPWR circuit (RED) at the EVR solenoid vehicle harness connector. Is voltage greater than 10.5 volts?
Yes GO to DN12
No - SERVICE open circuit. RECONNECT EVR solenoid. RERUN Quick Test.


DN12 CHECK EVR CIRCUIT CONTINUITY, Key off. EVR solenoid disconnected. Disconnect PCM. Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.

miesk5 Note, as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC pin instead; for instance - Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 (EVR) and EVR Signal ... Substitute EEC for :breakout box
to help in this, use;
EEC Connector Pin Diagram

by Fireguy50 (Ryan M)
EEC Connector Pin LEGEND Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8; Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://web.archive.org/web/20131029020805/http://oldfuelinjection.com/truckpinouts.html

WIRING diagram for your 87 5.0 @ http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=25054
scroll down to EVR

Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 at the breakout box and EVR circuit at the EVR solenoid vehicle harness connector. Is resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
YES GO to DN13 .
No - SERVICE open circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components.
RERUN Quick Test.

DN13 CHECK EVR CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER OR GROUND. Key off. EVR solenoid disconnected. Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pins 37 and 57 at the breakout box. Measure resistance between Test Pin 33 and Test Pin 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box. Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes -REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box.
No - SERVICE short circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT all components.
RERUN Quick Test. If DTC is repeated, REPLACE EVR solenoid..."
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The EVR is new but It may have an issue. The wires to it look like they got hot or somthing they are bare.
On the plus side it passed the OC Cali smog test
Thanks for the info I am still planning on making it code free. What would that that have affected? Milage, power, smog?
 
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