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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i am new to the website and i have read through the other idle problems that the other users have had and i have checked all vacuum lines, i took the carb off and cleaned it thoroughly it has and eldebrok 650 carb the set screws were not touched during the cleaning, when i put it back on when it starts up cold it idles perfectly, but as the temp goes up the idle goes higher and higher...usually stops at around 2000 rpm when it is in park or n but in drive or reverse it idles around 1200 rpms which is unusual, it has a 351w
 

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If you only disconnected 1 wire, then you didn't disconnect the choke. That's just the electric ASSIST for the choke. The choke is the top butterfly in the carb throat; its linkage runs down one side to a cam with steps & a screw, and there's another rod running up to the round plastic housing with the bimetallic coil & heater inside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I will disconnect them both tonight when I leave work my question is could I have done something wrong when I cleaned the carb? I made sure I did not touch the set screws and once the the temp got high enoght and I was hitting the throttle wouldn't the choke disengage?
 

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Fast idle cam reversed operation? Weird...

Maybe the linkage or the bushings in the carb are hanging up. Get a can of carb cleaner and spray all of the linkage good, include top choke butterfly plates and lower throttle body plates where they go into the body. Work the areas as you spray. Don't use any lubricants as the oil will collect dirt and grime and gum everything up over time.

The linkage will only go on one way, so that eliminates that.

Check linkage for signs of binding. On the driver's side of the carb you will see a large triangle looking sort of plate. on the other side of this plate are the steps for the choke cam. Move the linkage by hand to make sure that the linkage is not bound. Grab your rod. It should move freely up and down with no binding. (I couldn't help it.)

Fast Idle Adj.
The screw is on the drivers side, facing forward at the bottom. It is easier to get to when you open the throttle some.

Cold - Hit the gas one time to the floor. The butterfly should just be opened, maybe an eight of a inch. Not all the way closed.

Start the truck. Choke plate should not have moved. Rpm should be around 1600RPM.

Let it warm up for a minute or two. Rromp the gas a good one and the idle should drop off depending on the temp. Now the butterfly wil be partially to all the way open,

After the car warms up, you should be looking for 700RPM or so, and the butterfly ALL the way open.

While your there, make sure that the carb is opening up all the way with the pedal buried.

Make sure that your choke housing is properly clocked-in. Remove the doubt. Check it.

Look carefully where the carb meets the base of the manifold. I saw this one time where the lever was hitting the manifold and making it hang up. Just ground a relief, no sweat. Look for shiny spots.

I just saw the year, kicking codes? IAC maybe?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks for all the help guys the good news I finally diagnosed the problem was the carb was ridiculous on the inside but I got it rebuilt and now it is running good, I replaced the fuel tank filters and flushed the fuel lines to prevent that from happening again
 
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