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Discussion Starter #22

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Discussion Starter #23
Yo,
Thermactor Air Bypass Solenoid (aka TAB, AIRB, AM1)
Motorcraft has a connector/pin catalog @https://www.motorcraft.com/content/.../wire_sets_wiring/18376-Pigtail-Book-2016.pdf

Also,I believe the Thermactor Air Diverter Solenoid (TAD, AIRD, AM2) uses a similar connector in your 92.
i ran a self test with my code reader, gave me back to back errors with engine on test for
311 "thermactor air system/fault during self test" so im thinking those 2 solenoids might be bad, what do you think?
 

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Yo,
That does appear to be high.
Is it like that all the time including when engine is at normal operating temp and when rolling up to a stop sign?

If so, aside from vacuum leak, I posted this earlier in the thread, "Sticking throttle linkages or throttle body plate is stuck - we had this occur recently! Sprayed throttle body cleaner on linkage atop throttle body and then light coat of WD 40 on linkage. Don't try to lubricate the cable internally."
+
172919
 

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Yo Fox,

DTC 311, "...KC1 DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) 311: VISUALLY INSPECT VACUUM HOSES
Vacuum hoses damaged.
AIRB/AIRD valve inoperative.
Air Pump inoperative.
AIRB/AIRD solenoids damaged.

miesk5 Note; as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC pin instead; to help see,
EEC Connector Pin Diagram
Source: by Fireguy50 (Ryan M) at Wayback Machine

EEC Connector Pin LEGEND Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8; Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection

****DO THIS FIRST:
KC10 MEASURE AIRB/AIRD SOLENOID RESISTANCE
Key off.
Disconnect both AIRB/AIRD solenoid connectors and measure both solenoid resistances.
Is each resistance between 50 and 100 ohms? if Yes, they are good electrically. ****

DTCs 311 indicates the Secondary Air Injection system is inoperative
Possible causes:
Visually inspect vacuum lines for disconnects in the AIR system.
Visually inspect for proper vacuum line routing. Refer to VECI decal.
Visually inspect Air Pump for broken or loose Air Pump Belt. Refer to Section 13A for adjustment/replacement.
Were any problems found?
Yes SERVICE as necessary. RERUN Quick Test.
NO GO to KC2

KC2 CHECK AIR VACUUM LINES
Carefully check AIR vacuum lines; From AIRB solenoid to AIRB valve.
From AIRD solenoid to AIRD valve.
From Manifold Vacuum TREE to AIRB/AIRD solenoids.
Check for obstructions, cracks, kinks, and leaks, etc.
Are vacuum lines in good condition?

Yes SERVICE as necessary. RERUN Quick Test.
NO Go to KC 5

KC5 CHECK AIRB AND AIRD SOLENOIDS ELECTRICAL OPERATION
DVOM on 20 volt scale.
Enter Output State Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM). Refer to Section 5A , Quick Test Appendix.
Disconnect AIRB solenoid.
Connect DVOM positive test lead to VPWR circuit and negative test lead to AIRB circuit of AIRB vehicle harness connector.
While observing DVOM, depress and release the throttle several times (to cycle output On and Off).
Repeat for the AIRD solenoid.
Does each solenoid circuit cycle 0.5 volt or greater?
Yes GO to KC6.
NO REMOVE jumper GO to KC10 .

KC6 CHECK AIRB/AIRD SOLENOIDS FOR INTERNAL VACUUM LEAKS
Remain in output state DTM.
Reconnect AIRD/AIRB harness connector.
Vacuum pump connected to the supply port and vacuum gauge connected to the output port of one solenoid.
Apply 15 in-Hg (51 kPa) vacuum and observe gauge.
Repeat steps above for the other solenoid.
Does vacuum gauge reading hold for each solenoid?
Yes GO to KC7
No REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RERUN Quick Test.

KC7 CHECK AIRB/AIRD SOLENOIDS FOR VACUUM CYCLING
Continue in output state DTM.
Install vacuum pump to the AIRB solenoid vacuum supply port and install a vacuum gauge to the AIRB output port.
Apply 15 in-Hg vacuum.
While cycling outputs On and Off (by depressing and releasing throttle), observe the vacuum gauge at the output.
Note: Re-apply vacuum between cycles.
Repeat for AIRD solenoid. Connect vacuum pump to the AIRD solenoid vacuum supply port and connect a vacuum gauge to the AIRD output port.
Cycle output on and off.
Does each solenoid cycle vacuum output on and off?
Yes EXIT Output State DTM, RECONNECT vacuum hoses
NO REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RERUN Quick Test.

KC10 MEASURE AIRB/AIRD SOLENOID RESISTANCE
Key off.
Disconnect both AIRB/AIRD solenoid connectors and measure both solenoid resistances.
Is each resistance between 50 and 100 ohms?
Yes GO to KC11
NO REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RECONNECT both solenoids. RERUN Quick Test.

KC11 CHECK CIRCUIT CONTINUITY
Key off.
Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.
Measure resistance between AIRB circuit at breakout box and AIRB circuit at vehicle harness connector.
Measure resistance between AIRD circuit at the breakout box and AIRD circuit at vehicle harness connector.
Is each resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes GO to KC12
NO SERVICE open harness circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and both solenoids. RERUN Quick Test

KC12 CHECK FOR SHORT TO GROUND
Key off.
Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.
Disconnect both AIRB/AIRD solenoids.
Measure resistance between AIRB circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 40, 46 and 60. Measure resistance between AIRD circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes GO to KC13 .
NO SERVICE short to ground. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and AIRB/AIRD solenoids. RERUN Quick Test

KC13 CHECK FOR SHORT TO POWER
Key off.
Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.
Both AIRB/AIRD solenoids disconnected.
Measure resistance between AIRB circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 37 and 57. Measure resistance between AIRD circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 37 and 57 at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT both solenoids. RERUN Quick Test.
5NO SERVICE short to power. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and AIRB/AIRD solenoids. RERUN Quick Test. If DTC is present, REPLACE PCM.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Yo Fox,

DTC 311, "...KC1 DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) 311: VISUALLY INSPECT VACUUM HOSES
Vacuum hoses damaged.
AIRB/AIRD valve inoperative.
Air Pump inoperative.
AIRB/AIRD solenoids damaged.

miesk5 Note; as I mentioned in another thread here; In place of the breakout box, go to the EEC pin instead; to help see,
EEC Connector Pin Diagram
Source: by Fireguy50 (Ryan M) at Wayback Machine

EEC Connector Pin LEGEND Bronco & Ford Truck & Van: 4.9, 460, 5.0, 5.8; Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at Ford Fuel Injection

****DO THIS FIRST:
KC10 MEASURE AIRB/AIRD SOLENOID RESISTANCE
Key off.
Disconnect both AIRB/AIRD solenoid connectors and measure both solenoid resistances.
Is each resistance between 50 and 100 ohms? if Yes, they are good electrically. ****

DTCs 311 indicates the Secondary Air Injection system is inoperative
Possible causes:
Visually inspect vacuum lines for disconnects in the AIR system.
Visually inspect for proper vacuum line routing. Refer to VECI decal.
Visually inspect Air Pump for broken or loose Air Pump Belt. Refer to Section 13A for adjustment/replacement.
Were any problems found?
Yes SERVICE as necessary. RERUN Quick Test.
NO GO to KC2

KC2 CHECK AIR VACUUM LINES
Carefully check AIR vacuum lines; From AIRB solenoid to AIRB valve.
From AIRD solenoid to AIRD valve.
From Manifold Vacuum TREE to AIRB/AIRD solenoids.
Check for obstructions, cracks, kinks, and leaks, etc.
Are vacuum lines in good condition?

Yes SERVICE as necessary. RERUN Quick Test.
NO Go to KC 5

KC5 CHECK AIRB AND AIRD SOLENOIDS ELECTRICAL OPERATION
DVOM on 20 volt scale.
Enter Output State Diagnostic Test Mode (DTM). Refer to Section 5A , Quick Test Appendix.
Disconnect AIRB solenoid.
Connect DVOM positive test lead to VPWR circuit and negative test lead to AIRB circuit of AIRB vehicle harness connector.
While observing DVOM, depress and release the throttle several times (to cycle output On and Off).
Repeat for the AIRD solenoid.
Does each solenoid circuit cycle 0.5 volt or greater?
Yes GO to KC6.
NO REMOVE jumper GO to KC10 .

KC6 CHECK AIRB/AIRD SOLENOIDS FOR INTERNAL VACUUM LEAKS
Remain in output state DTM.
Reconnect AIRD/AIRB harness connector.
Vacuum pump connected to the supply port and vacuum gauge connected to the output port of one solenoid.
Apply 15 in-Hg (51 kPa) vacuum and observe gauge.
Repeat steps above for the other solenoid.
Does vacuum gauge reading hold for each solenoid?
Yes GO to KC7
No REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RERUN Quick Test.

KC7 CHECK AIRB/AIRD SOLENOIDS FOR VACUUM CYCLING
Continue in output state DTM.
Install vacuum pump to the AIRB solenoid vacuum supply port and install a vacuum gauge to the AIRB output port.
Apply 15 in-Hg vacuum.
While cycling outputs On and Off (by depressing and releasing throttle), observe the vacuum gauge at the output.
Note: Re-apply vacuum between cycles.
Repeat for AIRD solenoid. Connect vacuum pump to the AIRD solenoid vacuum supply port and connect a vacuum gauge to the AIRD output port.
Cycle output on and off.
Does each solenoid cycle vacuum output on and off?
Yes EXIT Output State DTM, RECONNECT vacuum hoses
NO REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RERUN Quick Test.

KC10 MEASURE AIRB/AIRD SOLENOID RESISTANCE
Key off.
Disconnect both AIRB/AIRD solenoid connectors and measure both solenoid resistances.
Is each resistance between 50 and 100 ohms?
Yes GO to KC11
NO REPLACE AIRB/AIRD solenoid assembly. RECONNECT both solenoids. RERUN Quick Test.

KC11 CHECK CIRCUIT CONTINUITY
Key off.
Disconnect Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Inspect for damaged or pushed out pins, corrosion, loose wires, etc. Service as necessary.
Install breakout box, leave PCM disconnected.
Measure resistance between AIRB circuit at breakout box and AIRB circuit at vehicle harness connector.
Measure resistance between AIRD circuit at the breakout box and AIRD circuit at vehicle harness connector.
Is each resistance less than 5.0 ohms?
Yes GO to KC12
NO SERVICE open harness circuit. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and both solenoids. RERUN Quick Test

KC12 CHECK FOR SHORT TO GROUND
Key off.
Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.
Disconnect both AIRB/AIRD solenoids.
Measure resistance between AIRB circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 40, 46 and 60. Measure resistance between AIRD circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 40, 46 and 60 at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes GO to KC13 .
NO SERVICE short to ground. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and AIRB/AIRD solenoids. RERUN Quick Test

KC13 CHECK FOR SHORT TO POWER
Key off.
Breakout box installed, PCM disconnected.
Both AIRB/AIRD solenoids disconnected.
Measure resistance between AIRB circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 37 and 57. Measure resistance between AIRD circuit at the breakout box and Test Pins 37 and 57 at the breakout box.
Is each resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?
Yes REPLACE PCM. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT both solenoids. RERUN Quick Test.
5NO SERVICE short to power. REMOVE breakout box. RECONNECT PCM and AIRB/AIRD solenoids. RERUN Quick Test. If DTC is present, REPLACE PCM.
ok ill try to re lube the linkage and throttle body springs

and i been trying to find any sign of a bade vacum line and nothing, so im not sure what it might be, ill try and check the resistance of the solenoid

Also the air pump was deleted on my bronco, its there but they took the pulley off
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Yo,
That does appear to be high.
Is it like that all the time including when engine is at normal operating temp and when rolling up to a stop sign?

If so, aside from vacuum leak, I posted this earlier in the thread, "Sticking throttle linkages or throttle body plate is stuck - we had this occur recently! Sprayed throttle body cleaner on linkage atop throttle body and then light coat of WD 40 on linkage. Don't try to lubricate the cable internally."
+ View attachment 172919
and yes like that all the time
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Yo,
That does appear to be high.
Is it like that all the time including when engine is at normal operating temp and when rolling up to a stop sign?

If so, aside from vacuum leak, I posted this earlier in the thread, "Sticking throttle linkages or throttle body plate is stuck - we had this occur recently! Sprayed throttle body cleaner on linkage atop throttle body and then light coat of WD 40 on linkage. Don't try to lubricate the cable internally."
+ View attachment 172919
So i rented a vacuum gauge /pump and when i turn the truck on, it goes to 20 in of mercury but its bouncing up and down, is that normal ? i plugged it straight to the vacuum tree also i disconnected one of the canisters and it hissed so its getting air seal
so im not sure whats next?
 

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Yo,
If you still have the gauge, take a video of it and post.

Also, "WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates (swings back and forth) over a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed, the valve guides (6510) could be worn. As engine speed is increased, the needle will become steady if the guides are responsible."
Did you increase engine speed?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Yo,
If you still have the gauge, take a video of it and post.

Also, "WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates (swings back and forth) over a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed, the valve guides (6510) could be worn. As engine speed is increased, the needle will become steady if the guides are responsible."
Did you increase engine speed?
no i didnt, ill do that right now
 
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Discussion Starter #33
Yo,
If you still have the gauge, take a video of it and post.

Also, "WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates (swings back and forth) over a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed, the valve guides (6510) could be worn. As engine speed is increased, the needle will become steady if the guides are responsible."
Did you increase engine speed?
so i did the test, it only went down then up, so im going to just get some carb cleaner and spray it around to make sure its not a vacuum leak
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Yo,
If you still have the gauge, take a video of it and post.

Also, "WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates (swings back and forth) over a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed, the valve guides (6510) could be worn. As engine speed is increased, the needle will become steady if the guides are responsible."
Did you increase engine speed?
uuuhhhh i think i found 1 of a few problems...... so i was taking off the cruise control cable since i BARELY !!!! use cruise control and i felt resistence,and i think the buttons are busted, and when im grabbing the plastic part of the accelerator cable its crumbling in my hand and its all bent and dis storded....another thing when checking the air by pass solenoid, one of the rubber grommets where bent in on its self/deformed, i tried to correct it but it still moved back to place so im guessing im going to have to change some vacuum lines
 
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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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so im guessing im going to have to change some vacuum lines
Hmmm, where have I heard this before??Lol

Replace every vacuum line you can, the lifespan was never meant to be this long.

The rubber lines deteriorate & the hard plastic lines become brittle & crack.

Its just a good idea on a nearly 30 year old truck.
 

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1982 Bronco XLT Lariat, 351W, C6; 1989 Bronco XLT, 302, AOD
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hhhmmmm i see, its a duralast one from autozone, i think i might have to check that, ill look into how much a motor craft is on rock auto
I have noticed through the years that Fords really like Motorcraft parts. When replacing sensors or anything else, if Motorcraft is an option I always choose the Motorcraft part - no matter the cost. It is always better in the long run.
For instance, when changing the alternator the O'Reilly part did not clear or make the check engine light go out. I was told by a mechanic that Ford puts something in their alternators that others aren't allowed to use that makes the check engine light turn off. Don't know if that is true - sounds far fetched. But when I went back and got a Motorcraft part, at a higher price, of course, it worked fine and the check engine light did go out. I have had the same issue with other sensors on my 89 XLT with 302 when the Motorcraft part wasn't readily accessible. Changing parts gets expensive.
TB
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Hmmm, where have I heard this before??Lol

Replace every vacuum line you can, the lifespan was never meant to be this long.

The rubber lines deteriorate & the hard plastic lines become brittle & crack.

Its just a good idea on a nearly 30 year old truck.
yeah but im looking for some where i can get a big roll of silicone tubbing so i can get to work on that
 

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I got 30 feet of black silicone vacuum line at the auto parts store first & replaced most of it. Then I needed more, so the next time I went on Amazon & got 15 feet of red, & 15 feet of blue silicone line. They were about $12 each. Then did my manifold to EGR solenoid in blue, then solenoid TO EGR in red, just to make things look somewhat colorful... its stupid looking but whatever, I don't open the hood to show it off or anything, so its irrelevant & functional.

I will say that once I got that EGR solenoid replaced & the EGR working as it should, the truck ran better than ever.

172997


172998
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I got 30 feet of black silicone vacuum line at the auto parts store first & replaced most of it. Then I needed more, so the next time I went on Amazon & got 15 feet of red, & 15 feet of blue silicone line. They were about $12 each. Then did my manifold to EGR solenoid in blue, then solenoid TO EGR in red, just to make things look somewhat colorful... its stupid looking but whatever, I don't open the hood to show it off or anything, so its irrelevant & functional.

I will say that once I got that EGR solenoid replaced & the EGR working as it should, the truck ran better than ever.

View attachment 172997

View attachment 172998
oh wow :O !!!! doesnt look to bad,
so i changed my throttle cable and its pretty stiff, didnt know why, looked at the throttle plates..........and i could hear them sgueaking URGH!!!!

so i got in there with a plastic tip brush and cleaned it with carb clean, its much better, but still abit sticky dont know why

i checked the whole vacuum of the car and its pretty good !!! so i think im the 5% that has a some what high idle that isnt because of vacuum
 
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