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Discussion Starter #1
The left side looks easy, but I sure could use some helpful hints on how to best access the 2 rear plugs on the right side of the 1995 with the 351 V8? Should I go under the car? Thanks for any help. Tyler
 

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1990 Ford Bronco Custom, 5.0L EFI AOD Manual Hubs
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I have used an extension with a swivel on it. Of course i had already crawled into the engine compartment and was sprawled all over the top of the intake. There are "tire steps" i think you can get them at Harbor freight. They hook over the tire and have a step that gets you up just high enough to make it a little more comfortable. Those are going to be my next purchase.

~Erik
 

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'92 Custom w/ '95 MAF 5.0 M/T, 33's, 4.10 LSD
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Being triple jointed helps... As do a variety of spark plug pullers that help you get leverage where the fingers don't reach. I think mine is the Lisle brand, but looks like this random one I pulled up:

 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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8,151 Posts
My Broncos are older, so I don't know the specifics on a 95, but I'll throw in what I've used for plugs. If you get a really stuck plug, try it at a different temp. Most engines seem to work fine cold, but I had an old FE that wouldn't let go of its plugs unless it was warmed up. Gotta be careful of hot exhaust on a warm engine. All pics below.

A good spark plug socket. The right size with the holder inside & an external hex on the back end.

A flex head ratchet. The best spark plug tool imho. Frequently the angle of the plug keeps you from being able to turn a regular ratchet in the available space. With the flex head it allows you to swing the handle thru a clear path. Try to use it square to the socket when breaking the plug loose.

Some times there is not enough room for the ratchet head behind the socket. That's where the external hex on the socket comes into play. You get the socket into place & turn it with an open end or crescent wrench.

Wobble extensions. The male end is tapered, so it allows a slight offset angle. Not as floppy as a universal, but still alows some misalignment.

Universal joint socket. More difficult to use than the wobble extension, but sometimes you need more angle.

Look for other ways to access it. On some vehicles it helps to remove the plastic fender liner, if there is no good access with it in place. The worst plug access I remember was on a Sunbeam Tiger that 4 of us passed around for awhile. That's an English sportscar with a Ford smallblock V8. The back plug on the driver's side was a bugger. My friend who owned it at the time was complaining how tough it was as he was finishing up & said "why didn't they put an access plug in the firewall? Right here... where this... rubber plug is" as he popped the plug loose. After that we all changed that plug while sitting in the driver's seat with a long stack of extensions.









Video showing the Tiger cramped engine compartment. Btw, this is the very same Tiger that the 4 of us passed around way back when. My brother Jim has owned it for many years.
 

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96 XL, 351, E4OD w/FL1 & dual coolers. Double cardan shafts, TrueTracs, 4.10s front & rear. 4" lift
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Of course i had already crawled into the engine compartment and was sprawled all over the top of the intake.
LOL been there and done that! Not exactly the most comfortable thing to be resting on but it did work.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks everyone, My question was not quite accurate. I meant to ask how to get the boots off. I located a Lisle boot puller and got the driver's side boots off (these are original 1995 wires and plugs), but cannot get the tool on any of the passenger side boots. Will jack up and remove front right wheel tonight and try it from that angle. But hesitant to remove the splash guard: it has lots of stuff attached to it.
Fodder: thanks for link to those 2 specialized boot pullers (Lisle adjustable 51750 and ARES 70053 angled).

See my other post about starting an engine for the first time in 3 years.Tyler
 
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