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Discussion Starter #1
Wow, what a history this truck has! I bought this truck in 2008 with 94k miles. It was stock, clean and ran great (still does BTW with over 160k). So many hours have gone into this build over a couple transformations.

Current Build specs to date 1994 Eddie Bauer 5.8L / 351W, D60 SAS, 35 spline shafts all around, chromo front shafts Fully locked w/ ARB, Full Hydro Steer, Drive Flanges, hi-steer, gusseted outer kingpin knuckles, 39.5" IROKS with custom beadlocks, custom 3-link front suspension, 16" FOA dual rate coilovers, 24" articulation travel at the wheel hub, skyjacker 6" lift rear springs, Sterling 10.25 rear axle, 5.38:1 ring & pinion, ZF-5 manual tranny swap, BW1356 x-case with front and rear flanges, 1350 joints on both driveshafts, all mounted with custom skids / mount combo, Partially boxed frame, custom cross members front to rear, custom engine mounts + engine cage, ARB dual compressor, custom roll cage, custom rock sliders, custom exhaust, CA SMOG exempt, and a bunch of other doodads

Here's what the truck looked like basically stock. I am using a pic i found online. Man, do I LOVE the Jem Green color:
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Then, a Skyjacker 6" stage 2 Kit (286-BKS-A) went on, along with some 36" IROKs:

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After I cracked the TTB drop brackets, I did a SAS that took forever, due to time constraints. Dana 60 with 39.5" IROKs

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I'll Post the builds more in detail later.
 

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1994 EB 351 (Sold)
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I know that you said the first picture is representative of yours but I swear I have seen that Bronco IRL. They were asking almost $20,000.00 for it in League City Texas. I drive by that place every week.

I do love the emerald color Ford uses. Looks amazing in the sunlight all cleaned up. Looking forward to your future build posts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I know that you said the first picture is representative of yours but I swear I have seen that Bronco IRL. They were asking almost $20,000.00 for it in League City Texas. I drive by that place every week.

I do love the emerald color Ford uses. Looks amazing in the sunlight all cleaned up. Looking forward to your future build posts.
"Stock # B21864 in League City, TX at Select Jeeps Inc., TX's premier pre-owned luxury car dealership"
Yeah, it really is my favorite truck color of all time
 

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Discussion Starter #5
@miesk5 Near future plans: I'd like to finish making half doors for it. I've already cut the doors up. Since the driver's side is all bashed in and the removable top will never fit again, there's no reason to keep the doors stock (or whole for that matter).

Also, use the same PVC bathtub liner sheet used to make the wheel wells to make an under the engine cover. It would be nice to keep some of that water and mud off the engine when I splash around.

Later Plans: 4 link the rear and raise the gas tank. I'm tired of bashing that thing in too!!
 

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Yo Tim,
We went through two tanks on our 78, I mean our #3 son did!

FYI, Raised Installation in a 95 Source: by Rafael E (Bronkzilla, stressed) @ 1995 Ford Bronco Raised Gas Tank pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

ONE NOTE:

"It came up that the California Smog places would check for proper fuel filler so i decided to use the old one. I cut the metal outer hose since it wasnt at the right angle"

I'd route filler hose differently or box it.

I like your idea of the under engine splash shield as they have for Expeditions
Home / Products / 1999-2002 Ford Expedition Engine Splash Shield/Air Deflector,Lower,4WD


1999-2002 Ford Expedition Engine Splash Shield/Air Deflector,Lower,4WD

Al
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sounds like he had a great time with your truck!

I like how Rafael utilized the stock gas filler neck. I don't utilize the interior panels, so I'll have an easier time with this mod.

Now with the '92+ trucks with crumple zone frames, there are two stock welded flanges with two bolt holes each that will make this addition a piece of cake!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
This is the SkyJacker (286-BKS-A) kit I installed. Super Easy, one day job. The radius arms are 15" longer than stock. Replacement drop brackets, coil springs and pitman arm.
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Driveway Flex Test

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Compared to stock

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Discussion Starter #9
I did the Bassani Exhaust upgrade. That ended up cracking and getting weld repaired and eventually replaced with custom. Replaced both cats as well.
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Discussion Starter #10
E4OD got filled with water after swamping around. On the way home the sucker blew out the forward drive gears. I had reverse, so I did what anyone would to and I drove in reverse on the freeway in the slow lane 2 miles to the next exit. Not 5 mins later a cop pulled off the exit, but for someone else. Whew! So I rebuilt it myself. Followed the ATSG manual for updates, upgrades and shift kit. Threw that sucker back in until I sold it and did the ZF-5 Manual Swap.
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Discussion Starter #11
ZF-5 swap came from an F-350 with the 5.8L. I really enjoyed this swap. After the mechanical portion, I hunted an ECU down that enabled smooth operation, no check engine light and was compatible with everything else. That alone took a YEAR to find, but well worth it! I haven't needed to rebuild this tranny to this day. Runs like a dream, the power to the wheels is incredible. Granny low is awesome.
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Discussion Starter #12
I ran a snorkel for almost 9 years. I loved that thing. I could submerge it ( with proper engine sealing and diff breathing of course) and never worry about hydro-lock. I have Since removed it now that the BKO is my crawler and no longer my bog machine. Simple - the stock air box is symmetrical, so just rotate the bottom half 180° and put a hole through your fender big enough for some 3" ABS pipe. Shorten the air tubes to the throttle body an inch or so and couple it with more ABS fittings. Not surprisingly the BKO was nick named "The Urinal."
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Discussion Starter #13
Also did the smog pump bypass pulley mod, after my smog pump ceased up and caused a terrible squealing effect to the belt. Buy the Ford Performance (M-8604-A50) unit. Buy the Dorman (34150) unit. Swap the pulleys, install the Ford bracket with the Dorman pulley and presto!

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Discussion Starter #14
Made some rock sliders after a couple body dings. Not pictured are the diamond plates I welded to the frame. Supported by 3 legs on each side. 1.75" x 0.120 "DOM tube.
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Discussion Starter #15
Next I will post the SAS and other serious build pics. Stay tuned!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I bought an '91 F350 and stripped it of its axles to put under the bronco. After performing many calculations and finding the ideal placements for all of the link towers, I ended up with this (later redone due to clearance issues and the ). The idea behind this build is maximum clearance and strength. All link mounts are mounted center line of the axle tube and up. The vertical separation at the axle was 10" by design, so I had to build a huge upper link tower to accommodate. 25% of the tire diameter (40") provides plenty of strength, so there's how I got 10". Full hydro steer mount, high steer arms, kingpin spring eliminator, 35 spline inner / outer shafts, flanged outer knuckles with 0.25" plate, drive flanges to eliminate locking hubs, 5.38 gears + ARB locker
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After fitting the axle underneath, I realized the track bar was too short, and the coilover mounts were too in-board and would interfere with the frame. Time to make some changes and get it right!

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Discussion Starter #17
The frame of the Bronco need some mods as well. I eliminated the stock engine cross member due to clearance and strength issues with cracking and such, as I've seen on other builds. So I cut out the old and boxed the frame in necessary places. I then drilled out the boxed frame and welded in some tubing so the clamping force of tightened down bolts won't crush the box. I then bent up some 1.75" x 0.188" wall DOM, welded them to some custom flanges, added the engine mounts, and bolted it all up! Now I have all the clearance and strength I need.
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Discussion Starter #18
I required beadlocks for this build because of the nature of my driving habits in all terrains. Before I had and CAD skillz, a buddy of mine helped design and manufacture these. They are one-of-a-kind, and are VERY sharp. But I like dangerous and angry looking. I took some 17" steel wheels, cleaned the paint off the rims, welded in the inner beadlock rings, anti-coning rings, painted, mounted, and done!
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This is the SkyJacker (286-BKS-A) kit I installed. Super Easy, one day job. The radius arms are 15" longer than stock. Replacement drop brackets, coil springs and pitman arm.
I think I've got the same or very similar lift on my 96 I just picked up a few weeks ago. I'd like to go back to stock and from the sounds of your comment above maybe, it won't be too difficult. What OEM parts did you have to take off for the new Skyjacker? Did you have to weld anything in place I'll need to cut? I appreciate any insight.
 
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