Holley sniper efi and ignition

It’s really quite simple. When I did mine I ran all -6 an lines. I had a carb on mine but did switch from efi to that. I did my stock low pressure fuel pump and then a summit 60 psi fuel pump. I got my ignition power from a fuse I can get the exact one later. I have a hyperspark cd box, MSD dual sync distributor, so timing is controlled by the sniper. I would definitely get superconductor wires from MSD as that helps with interference. I am still having problems with the IAC being erratic but it does not affect it to much. If you have any questions feel free I did this recently.

Mattman, I am having to do the dizzy, coil, and ignition box on my 86 w/ 351W. I am having too many RFI/EMI issues doing only the sniper.

other than that, it took maybe 3 hours (already had the hole in the bed to access the tank) to run everything and switch everything over. Response was great, mileage was great.

if only it would stay running instead of randomly dieing driving down the road...again, RFI/EMI issue.

so, I don't know exactly how the setup is on the 89, I know on my 86 (carb'd) I needed the lokar kickdown, is the 89 the E4OD? if so, will you need a new controller for the trans?

Other issues I ran into, the PCV valve, you need to go with the fixed orifice from a chrysler, instead of the ford variable unit.

I did use earl's for my hoses and fittings, worked out great, no issues, no leaks, looks good.

Fixed Orifice for the PCV valve is a good note. I also noted that mine runs a little better with the pcv port capped, then it did with the Ford style valve. Im just running mine as open crankcase right now, but may try that again with an orifice style.

I ran all my Sniper stuff down one side of intake, everything else for the coil and such down the other. I agree the noise is a potential issue on these systems, Install everything as such.

Any idea on a part number for the PCV valve? Also, using the Holley sending unit that goes in the tank, do I still have to drill a return line? I am hoping with all the Holley ignition system, I avoid all the noise. According the efi system pros, this will avoid it, hence the reason I bought it all!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Jimmy Dean said:

so, I don't know exactly how the setup is on the 89, I know on my 86 (carb'd) I needed the lokar kickdown, is the 89 the E4OD? if so, will you need a new controller for the trans?

Click to expand...

1989 has an AOD and uses the Detent TV cable.

Fram FV410 is the one GM changed to on the 5.3 truck engine. I couldn't find one for Chrysler as the Chrysler guys are using the GM one.

Mine has a C6. Not aod or e40d. Does this change things??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

mattmann said:

Mine has a C6. Not aod or e40d. Does this change things??

Click to expand...

Yes makes it way easier. As the only thing you need is the vacuum line, and possibly the kick down linkage if you want to run with it hooked up. I find its not a big deal with a console/floor style shifter. With the factory column style stuff, it is nice to have.

mattmann said:

Mine has a C6. Not aod or e40d. Does this change things??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Click to expand...

yup, you'll need the lokar kickdown cable. I have no installed mine yet since I ripped the holley off and haven't put it back on yet, but it doesn't look like a hard or long job.

Where can I source this cable? I have a column shifter.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

TCB-40HS is the bracket used to hold the kickdown and throttle cable. You can modify your current cable and make it work by using a lokar end piece(S-1034) and trimming your current one to fit. KD-2AODHT is the kickdown cable. And for the fuel pump if you got the fuel sender with the return on it, then you would use the return on that and get rid of the stock fuel pumps, including the one on the rail. Also, the hyperspark system is so easy to set up, I just added the coil and cd box to mine and it took 20 mins to get rid of the piece of junk coil driver module. Look up how to install hyperspark and holley has made some good videos with it.

You dont need that. You already have the pump you need in the tank/frame. Just run adapters to the stock lines.
That holley kit is nice though. Running similar one in my 78

CrazyBRONCOguy said:

You dont need that. You already have the pump you need in the tank/frame. Just run adapters to the stock lines.
That holley kit is nice though. Running similar one in my 78

Click to expand...

Well it’s already paid for LOL. Would it be a good upgrade over factory??


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

GriffinB said:

I bought a pump from summit that is 60 psi and just plumbed that into the original system. I am using the stock low pressure pump in tank. View attachment 180015
I know this isn’t a very good picture but you can see the linkage back there. The throttle bracket holds the throttle cable and tv cable. The throttle is on top with the black sheathing. It uses that back left nut to hold the bracket down. Lokar as good customer support and instructions. I didn’t install the tv cable so I’m not sure how it goes.

As for the new pump I don’t think it would be worth it cause it kinda seems like it’s be a pain to make it work but I’m not sure.That was out of my budget. The pump I used was a sum-251000, and I’ve had no issues with it.

Click to expand...

Griff, did you have any RFI/EMI issues? how did you resolve if so, what dizzy and ignition system are you using?

Jimmy Dean said:

Griff, did you have any RFI/EMI issues? how did you resolve if so, what dizzy and ignition system are you using?

Click to expand...

I most definitely do, my IAC after a 20 minute drive goes very erratic and it idles high. Or after I turn it on again after driving it. Another problem I was having and still slightly have is where the whole sniper system including dizzy turn off and back on very quickly. It was very bad but I readjusted the rotor when I had the engine out and switched two of my spark plug wires to super conductor. The rest of them were already and I still have one the is Ford performance because it had a 45 on the end to fit between the header. I am using a MSD dual sync distributor, hyperspark cd box and coil. Sniper controls the timing. That all seemed to help a lot.

GriffinB said:

I most definitely do, my IAC after a 20 minute drive goes very erratic and it idles high. Or after I turn it on again after driving it. Another problem I was having and still slightly have is where the whole sniper system including dizzy turn off and back on very quickly. It was very bad but I readjusted the rotor when I had the engine out and switched two of my spark plug wires to super conductor. The rest of them were already and I still have one the is Ford performance because it had a 45 on the end to fit between the header. I am using a MSD dual sync distributor, hyperspark cd box and coil. Sniper controls the timing. That all seemed to help a lot.

Click to expand...

that is the same symptom I have, it turns off and on again. sometimes it doesn't always turn back on quickly enough and I end up having to coast to a stop.