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Discussion Starter #1
It seems to be a small controversy as to the single mounted differential traction bar compared to the latter style bars. I would really prefer to do the single but I don't want something that is not going to work. I have seen a few pictures of people's traction bars on here, are there anymore? Please post them.
-Thanks
Derik
 

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It depends on your intended use, and it's never going to be "bolt it up" easy.

Ladder bars will limit articulation due to binding in the mounts. They also typically hang very low.

I'm working on a bar like this:
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/woody/wrap.html

They work very well in theory, don't limit articulation at all, but they will affect the squat/antisquat of the rear end. It's not something that you can build (IMHO) and expect to be 100% satisfied the first time.

Products like this:


Are nearly guaranteed to bend your leaves. They depend on the front portion of the leaf remaining rigid. Under large torque loads, they buckle the main leaf. Had a buddy in an FJ do this to his rear end -- taco'd both rear springs, and sheared the pinion off. Definitely an expensive lesson.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That design for that FJ looks good. Has anyone had any problems with this design on a bronco?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Wouldn't that traction bar only work in drive and not reverse? I think that I will go with the shackle I idea, but that telescoping one look pretty slick. I can understand the physics of the shackle mounting idea, being as it can more a little both ways, but what is preventing that telescoping shaft from going the other way? maybe it does not matter that much because who gets axle wrap in reverse that much.
 

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Nah, the telescoping one still works... you have to figure that the long bar wants to rotate about a point near the center of the axle housing, so the sleeved portion only serves to let the bar get longer or shorter as the axle droops and stuffs.

Those kind can make noise, tho.... they'll rattle and clank due to the metal/metal contact in the slip section. If you get a decent sleeved fit, you may be okay.
 

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95Bronc, mine is here

http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=139&s=13698#content



You'll find there is a "dip" in each framerail kinda inline with the CV which works really well for a 1x2 xmember..... but I'd recommend making the bar as long as possible. Most seem to agree it should be as long as your d/s, but I still get a decent amount of anti-squat.........I can only figure the bar is too short. Either that or my geometry is wrong. So if possible shove the bar further up along the framerails..... should be easy if you have the M5OD, but if you've got the E4OD like me that might be all the further you can go.
 

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seboh said:
Nah, the telescoping one still works... you have to figure that the long bar wants to rotate about a point near the center of the axle housing, so the sleeved portion only serves to let the bar get longer or shorter as the axle droops and stuffs.

Those kind can make noise, tho.... they'll rattle and clank due to the metal/metal contact in the slip section. If you get a decent sleeved fit, you may be okay.
round stock 1.250" tube 1.260". It sould do nicely with a zerk and some grease.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As I have seen in a lot of the traction bars, there is only one. One bar is enough to eliminate the wrap? Most of the store bought bars come in pairs.
 

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All I can say to that is show me a store bought bar that doesn't limit travel, hang too low, or put irregular loads on the leaf springs.

But yes, one bar is plenty. I believe they're better on the passenger side (better able to combat torque lean maybe), but they work fine no matter where you put them. The real issues are the length and angle of the bar as it relates to the wheelbase.
 

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Now that I'd be really interested in .... I currently have two "custom curved" :( radius arms (one was already bent and the other was a lesson for the welder to slow down :doh: anyway he's gonna try and striaghten both and this was what I was thinking of using them for.
PS- the other Arm is looking BEAUTIFUL :imp ... now I just have to find another set that are straight (thinking I'll have to VI before I put the beast on the road again - don't think they'll like wrists).
 
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It works! No more wheel hop with blown 302, better launch, and seems to pull up over rocks without the wind-up.


Front bottom shackle joint is special " Johnny Joint " from http://www.allprooffroad.com/johnny.html. It allows a little universal movement and came tapped and fitted for zerk. They also sell it as a complete shackle, bling bling. I used regular leaf spring bushings for the other 3 joints.

 

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Everybody seems to be on the same track with this one. I'm going to try to get mine built like this:


This shot is from samsoffroad.com He has got some good stuff on his site. He won that top truck challenge about 3 or 4 years ago so you know it works.
 

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One other detail.... the Sam's bar will bind some, but the ones with the shackle pointing up (like in the Sam's photo) will bind less under droop than shackles that hang "down" from the frame.

Clear as mud?
 

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seboh said:
One other detail.... the Sam's bar will bind some, but the ones with the shackle pointing up (like in the Sam's photo) will bind less under droop than shackles that hang "down" from the frame.

Clear as mud?
not sure I understand why the direction the shackle is pointed will effect how much it binds....

but I too will say the shackle should point "up", that way when under power in a forward gear, the shackle is in tension....

--B
 

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So what do you guys think of that "Wrap Trap"??
I can't remember who makes it but it uses a heim joint mounted right on top of the differential.With a rod running up to a frame mounted cross member, connected thru a rubber bushing very similiar to those found on the rear of your radius arms.
Whats the deal with those?? I am in the process of making my own and was going to do something similiar.(but only if it works)
Slim
 

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Berne said:
not sure I understand why the direction the shackle is pointed will effect how much it binds....

but I too will say the shackle should point "up", that way when under power in a forward gear, the shackle is in tension....

--B
With the shackle pointed down you'll have maybe 45*movement for droop.with it facing up you'll have 135*
 

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say you have a clock the shackle sits at either 12 or 6. at droop on the 6 pos. the shackle would only be able to be pulled back to 7:30(aprox..45*). from 12 at droop the shackle can come down to 7;30(aprox 135*) as well. It's unlikly you'll need to go past9:00(90*) though.
 
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