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95Bronc, mine is here

http://www.superford.org/registry/vehicles/detail.php?id=139&s=13698#content



You'll find there is a "dip" in each framerail kinda inline with the CV which works really well for a 1x2 xmember..... but I'd recommend making the bar as long as possible. Most seem to agree it should be as long as your d/s, but I still get a decent amount of anti-squat.........I can only figure the bar is too short. Either that or my geometry is wrong. So if possible shove the bar further up along the framerails..... should be easy if you have the M5OD, but if you've got the E4OD like me that might be all the further you can go.
 

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Slim Carter said:
Seboh, Ok my skull is pretty thick.Can you help me understand why that type bar causes that sort of damage.I am trying to get a mental picture here and can't seem to figure it out.
I haven't tried mine out yet.(started working on raising my gas tank up like bronkzilla did and she is immobile for a couple days)
I definately don't want any of that major damage though!!
Thanks
Slim
A single bar simply relies on the front half of the leaves for triangulation, triangulation is what prevents wrap in this case. If you've got enough HP, enough bad luck, enough torque, or the right combination of circumstances the rear axle can still wrap bad enough with a single bar to pretzel the leaf spring.

Here's why: imagine you have the single bar, but the axle wants to wrap. It will still be able to *pivot* around that single mount on the axle housing, basically trying to make the pinion point for the sky. If the leafs buckle, it will succeed. It's entirely dependent upon the leafs holding their shape.

Now take a bar which has two attachment points..... as it tries to wrap it's being prevented by the two mounts, it would have to overcome both and flatten the triangle, or rip the mount at the front of the bar so it can send the pinion looking to the sky. If you're able to do any of these things *with a properly built bar,* you've got other severe issues too.

Clear as mud?
 

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mda said:
You don't cap the end of the tube with a steel plate. The tube is sized to allow one nut to be hammered into the tube.
Well..................I guess so long as you can hammer it in square. I'd wanna use a press personally.

I used the inserts from Avalanche (Avalanche now = Bayfield, Poison Spyder = Denver), but they were pricey, no question.

If you don't wanna use the inserts you'll just have to have some tubing tapped.
 

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The bambar's a cool concept but it's a little trickier to make IMO. First you wanna make sure that when you stuff the rear end you don't shove it up thru the floor. Second, you wanna make sure the shackle's long enough to allow full droop and travel somewhat in the same arc the springs want to as they drop out. Third, you better make sure your welds to the cast centersection are good, use pre and post-heat.

As for the more standard "Sam's bar," make sure you have enough vertical separation at the axle tube to fight wrap. I forgot how much I have, and it doesn't seem like a lot, but it works. I imagine I'm near the low-end of acceptable separation.

If you weld a Gr 8 bolt you're most likely taking it back to the strength of basic mild steel. Probably not a problem if the bolt's large enough.
 

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Chuck said:
The problem you have with them in the Bronco is a severe lack of room to make them long enough. As was mentioned above, this is particularly fun if you suffer from a case of E4OD, a problem I share. However, as a rule, the amount of anti-squat you get is inversely proportional to the length of the torque arm. The further you can get it up the chassis, the better.
I dunno, guys do it on YJ's and I've even seen at least two TJ's that converted to rear leafs and then did something like this. Now that's severe lack of room LOL. I think with anything BUT the E4OD you'd have plenty of length.

Even tho I get some anti-squat it's still better than wrap, and it's more controllable I've found.
 
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