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It depends on your intended use, and it's never going to be "bolt it up" easy.

Ladder bars will limit articulation due to binding in the mounts. They also typically hang very low.

I'm working on a bar like this:
http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/woody/wrap.html

They work very well in theory, don't limit articulation at all, but they will affect the squat/antisquat of the rear end. It's not something that you can build (IMHO) and expect to be 100% satisfied the first time.

Products like this:


Are nearly guaranteed to bend your leaves. They depend on the front portion of the leaf remaining rigid. Under large torque loads, they buckle the main leaf. Had a buddy in an FJ do this to his rear end -- taco'd both rear springs, and sheared the pinion off. Definitely an expensive lesson.
 

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Nah, the telescoping one still works... you have to figure that the long bar wants to rotate about a point near the center of the axle housing, so the sleeved portion only serves to let the bar get longer or shorter as the axle droops and stuffs.

Those kind can make noise, tho.... they'll rattle and clank due to the metal/metal contact in the slip section. If you get a decent sleeved fit, you may be okay.
 

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All I can say to that is show me a store bought bar that doesn't limit travel, hang too low, or put irregular loads on the leaf springs.

But yes, one bar is plenty. I believe they're better on the passenger side (better able to combat torque lean maybe), but they work fine no matter where you put them. The real issues are the length and angle of the bar as it relates to the wheelbase.
 

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One other detail.... the Sam's bar will bind some, but the ones with the shackle pointing up (like in the Sam's photo) will bind less under droop than shackles that hang "down" from the frame.

Clear as mud?
 

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Berne said:
not sure I understand why the direction the shackle is pointed will effect how much it binds....

but I too will say the shackle should point "up", that way when under power in a forward gear, the shackle is in tension....

--B
Because I drew it out one day. As the suspension cycles, the far end of the traction bar moved about a circle roughly 6-8" dia with the center below the bar.

I guess you could make an instance where the center of the circle was above the bar.... but I was looking at cases where the bar was at least the length of the front 1/2 of the springs.
 

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Slim Carter said:
So what do you guys think of that "Wrap Trap"??
I can't remember who makes it but it uses a heim joint mounted right on top of the differential.With a rod running up to a frame mounted cross member, connected thru a rubber bushing very similiar to those found on the rear of your radius arms.
Slim
Those work sort of like those FJ bars that I was talking about... they depend on the leaf springs remaining rigid. Sometimes, the leaf springs disagree with that idea and decide to buckle instead.
 

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Berne said:
well sure, you've got a theoretical point in space that you want your pivot....
from there, you can build bracketry to put the shackle whichever way you want it....
:shrug
Okay, yeah.... I guess I should add that the pivot point was usually pretty low... maybe about even with the bottom of the frame, probably a few inches lower. I guess that's the better way of stating it.... so you'd put the shackle on top, keep the arm a bit higher and out of the way.
 
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