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Slim Carter said:
So what do you guys think of that "Wrap Trap"??
I can't remember who makes it but it uses a heim joint mounted right on top of the differential.With a rod running up to a frame mounted cross member, connected thru a rubber bushing very similiar to those found on the rear of your radius arms.
Whats the deal with those?? I am in the process of making my own and was going to do something similiar.(but only if it works)
Slim
LIke this? - http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/suspension/Traction bar/index.html I've thought about this too, and wondered if a shackle at the frame would help, or make any difference at all
 

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Berne said:
not sure I understand why the direction the shackle is pointed will effect how much it binds....

but I too will say the shackle should point "up", that way when under power in a forward gear, the shackle is in tension....

--B
Because I drew it out one day. As the suspension cycles, the far end of the traction bar moved about a circle roughly 6-8" dia with the center below the bar.

I guess you could make an instance where the center of the circle was above the bar.... but I was looking at cases where the bar was at least the length of the front 1/2 of the springs.
 

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Slim Carter said:
So what do you guys think of that "Wrap Trap"??
I can't remember who makes it but it uses a heim joint mounted right on top of the differential.With a rod running up to a frame mounted cross member, connected thru a rubber bushing very similiar to those found on the rear of your radius arms.
Slim
Those work sort of like those FJ bars that I was talking about... they depend on the leaf springs remaining rigid. Sometimes, the leaf springs disagree with that idea and decide to buckle instead.
 

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seboh said:
Because I drew it out one day. As the suspension cycles, the far end of the traction bar moved about a circle roughly 6-8" dia with the center below the bar.

I guess you could make an instance where the center of the circle was above the bar.... but I was looking at cases where the bar was at least the length of the front 1/2 of the springs.
well sure, you've got a theoretical point in space that you want your pivot....
from there, you can build bracketry to put the shackle whichever way you want it....
:shrug
 

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NOBS! said:
say you have a clock the shackle sits at either 12 or 6. at droop on the 6 pos. the shackle would only be able to be pulled back to 7:30(aprox..45*). from 12 at droop the shackle can come down to 7;30(aprox 135*) as well. It's unlikly you'll need to go past9:00(90*) though.
I was afraid thats what you were getting at.....

I'd imagine, as a general rule.....if you've got this linkage designed for this shackle to ride normally pointing up, and "somehow" you got it to point down to "7:30".....
1. you really fawked something up
2. that shackle sure as hell is not going to go back up to "12:00"
3. you probly now have a pair of really fawked leaf springs, and your traction bar is now the least of your worries...

--B
 

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Berne said:
well sure, you've got a theoretical point in space that you want your pivot....
from there, you can build bracketry to put the shackle whichever way you want it....
:shrug
Okay, yeah.... I guess I should add that the pivot point was usually pretty low... maybe about even with the bottom of the frame, probably a few inches lower. I guess that's the better way of stating it.... so you'd put the shackle on top, keep the arm a bit higher and out of the way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Is anyone using that setup that davids78Bronco posted?
 

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That was my thought on it too. To me, the single bar won't allow the rear suspension to travel w/o stressing the front half of the rear springs, and also negates the slip joint's ability to do it's job. Rather than run the single bar over the diff, I would rather build the traction bar with the shackle
 

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Hey guys I finished my anti - wrap bar last night. I went with something similiar to the setup Davids78 posted. I am gonna try and get out this weekend and try it out.
I will keep you'all posted on any problems I encounter.
Slim
 

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Slim Carter said:
Hey guys I finished my anti - wrap bar last night. I went with something similiar to the setup Davids78 posted. I am gonna try and get out this weekend and try it out.
I will keep you'all posted on any problems I encounter.
Slim

I think pictures are NECESSARY at this point ... don't you? :toothless
 

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Seboh, Ok my skull is pretty thick.Can you help me understand why that type bar causes that sort of damage.I am trying to get a mental picture here and can't seem to figure it out.
I haven't tried mine out yet.(started working on raising my gas tank up like bronkzilla did and she is immobile for a couple days)
I definately don't want any of that major damage though!!
Thanks
Slim
 

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Slim Carter said:
Seboh, Ok my skull is pretty thick.Can you help me understand why that type bar causes that sort of damage.I am trying to get a mental picture here and can't seem to figure it out.
I haven't tried mine out yet.(started working on raising my gas tank up like bronkzilla did and she is immobile for a couple days)
I definately don't want any of that major damage though!!
Thanks
Slim
A single bar simply relies on the front half of the leaves for triangulation, triangulation is what prevents wrap in this case. If you've got enough HP, enough bad luck, enough torque, or the right combination of circumstances the rear axle can still wrap bad enough with a single bar to pretzel the leaf spring.

Here's why: imagine you have the single bar, but the axle wants to wrap. It will still be able to *pivot* around that single mount on the axle housing, basically trying to make the pinion point for the sky. If the leafs buckle, it will succeed. It's entirely dependent upon the leafs holding their shape.

Now take a bar which has two attachment points..... as it tries to wrap it's being prevented by the two mounts, it would have to overcome both and flatten the triangle, or rip the mount at the front of the bar so it can send the pinion looking to the sky. If you're able to do any of these things *with a properly built bar,* you've got other severe issues too.

Clear as mud?
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I went a bought a hiem joint and all of the metal, originally I was going to make it out of square tubing but I got a good deal on some round stock. I am trying to think of a good way to attach the hiem joint to the tube. One way would be to get a tube insert and have it threaded, that would be excellent but I don't really want to go through all of that trouble. What do you guys think about this setup? Will it be strong enough? It is definately hokey but I think that it will work.



:toothless :toothless
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
The reason I have to weld the two nuts together, is because I accidentally got a left hand thread hiem joint and I could not find any left hand thread couplers.
 
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