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Discussion Starter #1
OK, MY Mufflers finally rusted away from the Catalytic Converter. Luckily, I've got a cat back sitting in the dining room that was waiting for the rest of the exhaust but now it'll go on and the rest will come in time.

Anyway, is there a trick to getting the rubber block off the hanger other than cutting it off? The only replacements I've found were single hole blocks but the OEM is hung up by a double hole hanger.

Do I cut it, or is there some other way to take the old muffler off and get the new muffler on?
 

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cutting it, is fastest. but a good pick and ALOT of WD40 given time and elbo grease should get it out. but cutting it WAY easier but then u do have to replace it.
 

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Some good penetrating oil and a pry bar. Push off of the frame and it should come off.
 

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one of these:





Don't cut the rubber though!!! Believe me, you'll want to leave the rubber there. Just cut the hangers off the muffler itself. You'll be a lot happier that way!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
one of these:


Don't cut the rubber though!!! Believe me, you'll want to leave the rubber there. Just cut the hangers off the muffler itself. You'll be a lot happier that way!

You know, Cutting the actual hanger bars hadn't even occurred to me. After I posted the OP, I went and looked again at my Walker/Dynomax muffler and it's hanger is only a single bar hanger anyway. The rubber still looks in good shape fore 19 years old. I think the only reason that the exhaust is shot is due to it being garaged for about 3 years prior to me getting it. I'll just Sawzall the bars next weekend when I go to take everything out.

Something else though that I'm seeing will be an issue is when I install the forward exhaust system in the coming weeks after I get the other parts...

The intake end of the Muffler is 2.25" and the exhaust end is 2.5" Most of the other parts I'll be buying from the Y-pipe to the Catalytic converter will be 2.5" throughout. Can I actually expand the input end .25" or do I need to just go with w 2.5"-2.25" reducer? Is there such a beast or will I need to go to a muffler shop to get something custom?

For the record, I'm eventually going to be getting a new Y-Pipe, single Catalytic Converter and down to my DynoMax Turbo muffler. I'll do the pictures and writeup when I get this all done. Also, I'll be putting in a new O2 sensor with the install.
 

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You should be able to get a reducer at most any auto parts, right off the shelf.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, I'll go back and look this week. I went into Advance yesterday looking for clamps to use instead of the older U-bolt clamps that had been used in the past. I didn't even notice if there were reducers or other items there, I was pretty focused on the clamps since I know I'll be replacing/reinstalling other times in the short future so welding isn't for me. I don't know how or have the equipment to anyway.
 

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yo,
I uses a Dremel w/wire brush to clean the threads on the muff's bracket's boltz @ Xmember and then plenty of home made penetrating fluid... took it all off and then pulled bracket ("arms") off of the rubber bushings; and as your's they were still in vg cond.
Item Part Number Description
1 5260 Exhaust Outlet Pipe Frame Bracket
2 5230 Muffler
3 N605803-S2 Bolt
4 5C226 Gasket
5 N802641-S2 Flag Nut
6 N620481-S2 Nut
A � Tighten to 17-23 Nm
(13-17 Lb-Ft)
B � Tighten to 34-46 Nm
(25-34 Lb-Ft)

And as we yakked about before, Walker sells the Rubber Isolators, braqcket etc. thru Adv Auto, NAPA, etc. for a vg $

I think posted this same diagram too many times!! :whiteflag
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for that Diagram. I see I'm going to need to buy a new upper bracket anyway. Where the OEM has the double rods on 1 side, the new bracket has them 1 on each. So I'm going to have to remove all the old hardware anyway. My Walker/DynoMax kit came with the band clamp to go around the muffler as shown in the top picture. My OEM muffler has a double rod setup mounted on the output side similar to the bottom pic.

I'll have to check out the other 2 Advance stores on my way back and forth to work. the one closest to me has really gone down since the original staff left. And besides, the girls at the other 2 stores are cute and playful. AND, they kinda actually know something about the products. Win-Win!
 

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Thanks for that Diagram. I see I'm going to need to buy a new upper bracket anyway. Where the OEM has the double rods on 1 side, the new bracket has them 1 on each. So I'm going to have to remove all the old hardware anyway. My Walker/DynoMax kit came with the band clamp to go around the muffler as shown in the top picture. My OEM muffler has a double rod setup mounted on the output side similar to the bottom pic.

I'll have to check out the other 2 Advance stores on my way back and forth to work. the one closest to me has really gone down since the original staff left. And besides, the girls at the other 2 stores are cute and playful. AND, they kinda actually know something about the products. Win-Win!
yo!

I'd go w/the latter store too!
btw, I did clean (w/dish washing soap & rinsed w/water to remove cutting fluid, and grime from storage @ warehouses) & prime & paint the muffler strap and bracket before installing it; The strap around the muffler will rust way before the bracket.. meaning after about 11 years to 20 or so...lol
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the tip. What do you recommend? Something like the VHT stuff or plain ole BBQ Grill paint? Also, while I'm at it, there was a thread from way back when that gave the recommended installation and tightening instructions for an exhaust system. I've been searching for awhile now and can't find it. I'm pretty sure it was one of your posts. Is it in your Bronco Links perhaps?
 

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yo John,
Yes Wally Mart BBQ Grill paint
Parts Diagram in a 92 4.9; including Walker diagram & parts list w/catalytic converters
Source: by Walker via miesk5




========

in Ford Diagram below;
Exhaust System, Bronco, F-150, F-250, F-350 Regular Cab, SuperCab and Chassis Cab, 4x2 and 4x4, 4.9L SFI and Bronco 5.8L Engines
for 96, but = to 92
1 5F250 Catalytic Converter
2 375636-S309 Nut, Catalytic Converter-to-Exhaust Manifold
3 389112-S2 Stud, Catalytic Converter-to-Exhaust Manifold
4 9J454 Air Inlet Tube
5 5230 Muffler
6 N804034-S Clamp
7 5E287 Catalytic Converter Heat Shield, Front
8 N605905-S103 Bolt, Front Heat Shield
9 N803714-S102 Nut, U-Lock
10 N800295-S102 Nut, U-Lock
11 5K283 Catalytic Converter Heat Shield, Rear
12 5F250 Catalytic Converter
13 N605905-S1023 Bolt, Rear Heat Shield
14 N647098-S Rivet
15 5A246 Muffler Assembly Bracket
16 N620481-S2 Nut, Support Bracket
17 5A212 Muffler Extension Pipe
18 N803714-S102 Nut, U-Lock
A � Tighten to 34-46 Nm
(25-34 Lb-Ft)
B � Tighten 40-50 Nm
(30-37 Lb-Ft)
C � Tighten to 54-71 Nm
(40-52 Lb-Ft)
D � Tighten to 22-28 Nm
(16-21 Lb-Ft)
E � Tighten to 17-23 Nm
(13-17 Lb-Ft)


The check valve is @ top of the air tube and often rusts out, causing an exh leak sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You know? I may have been looking at the hanger mount forward of the muffler when I keyed in on the double rod mounting. It was a quick look under there to see where the Fart Can noise was coming from when I noticed the muffler had rotted away from the catalytic converter. I didn't look all the way back to the rear of the muffler at that bracket. It's probably under the heat shield anyway.

I've got a couple of cans of Rustoleum Grill Black that I'll use on the system when I put it in. All the heat shields still look really good, I'll just clean them up and shoot a coat on them also. It says it's good for up to 1200*
 
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