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10 seconds.

Turn key to on.

get paper clip or small eye glass screw driver. Depress button on bottle of cylinder

insert new lock cylinder and key

turn to off.

done
 

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oops bottom of cylinder, sorry.


Don't mind the steering wheel missing. The picture is from replacing the actuator.




Arrow is where the hole is.

Even on your first time I bet it will take you 5 mins.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
oh awesome thanks
while im at it, why are aftermarket steering wheels so expensive, stock replacement and these other oens i saw on LMC truck are like $300 a piece. is that normal?
 

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Forward Some Money
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If your key is worn down (common) why not just have a new key cut. Any locksmith worth his salt can decode the old worn key and code cut a new one. If you have the lock codes, they can use that too.
Not the same as copying or duplicating a key.

It would be cheaper.


'wheels came in vinyl or leather wrap. Leather wrap NOS are $300+. when you can find them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
the key is literally like a shank, it goes to a point from the end of the key. theres nothing left
 

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Service before Self
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If the key is that worn down then chances are the tumblers in the ignition switch are worn down too. I'd just replace it... Its stupid easy...
 

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Forward Some Money
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A worn out key does not equal a worn out lock. Keys wear out much faster than the tumblers. They are made of different materials.

Just about any "worn out" key can be revived. Even if the key is that bad, you could still pull the ignition, and take both to a qualified locksmith....but go ahead repalce the ignition if you feel the need.

Personally, I would rather have a worn OEM lock than a cheapo afftermarket one from Advance or Auto Zone etc.
 

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House of Windsor 4ever!
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A worn out key does not equal a worn out lock. Keys wear out much faster than the tumblers. They are made of different materials.

Just about any "worn out" key can be revived. Even if the key is that bad, you could still pull the ignition, and take both to a qualified locksmith....but go ahead repalce the ignition if you feel the need.

Personally, I would rather have a worn OEM lock than a cheapo afftermarket one from Advance or Auto Zone etc.
I've replaced a few on various vehicles of mine, not to mention customer's cars and trucks, and I've never had one come back defective ([raps on head] knock on wood).
 

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Service before Self
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A worn out key does not equal a worn out lock. Keys wear out much faster than the tumblers. They are made of different materials.

Just about any "worn out" key can be revived. Even if the key is that bad, you could still pull the ignition, and take both to a qualified locksmith....but go ahead repalce the ignition if you feel the need.

Personally, I would rather have a worn OEM lock than a cheapo afftermarket one from Advance or Auto Zone etc.
I agree that they can be revived by replacing all of the internal components including the tumblers. I'm just saying by the time a key is worn out the lock is worn out too. I've replaced hundreds of them our E-series ambulances and F-series rescue trucks and ambulances. They usually get so bad you can spin the ignition without a key in the lock.

We always replaced them with factory parts. Occasionally re-keying an entire vehicle. A full lock set on an E-series (4 doors and ign) from Ford was about $150 or so and the ignition only was around $30. You'd spend more than that at the lock smith...
 

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I agree that they can be revived by replacing all of the internal components including the tumblers. I'm just saying by the time a key is worn out the lock is worn out too. I've replaced hundreds of them our E-series ambulances and F-series rescue trucks and ambulances. They usually get so bad you can spin the ignition without a key in the lock.

We always replaced them with factory parts. Occasionally re-keying an entire vehicle. A full lock set on an E-series (4 doors and ign) from Ford was about $150 or so and the ignition only was around $30. You'd spend more than that at the lock smith...
By reviving, I meant the key, not the lock. What I am saying is many times there is nothing wrong with the lock, the key alone is worn out. Brass keys tend to wear out faster than the lock internals (absent abuse). In a commercial/fleet application like yours, you might have several sets or generations of keys cycled through the same lock. So, yes, at some point a lock would wear out at the same time the key does. That doesnt mean that everytime a set of keys wears out it's time to change the lock. He didnt say his lock was worn out.

If the only thing he did was have a key code cut it would probably only cost about $7-10. Just figured he should consider that option.
 
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