Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

21 - 31 of 31 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
4WABS Diagnostic performed - SOLID AMBER

This has been a great asset in diagnosing my ABS issues. I have been driving with the ABS jumpered for roughly 6 months now with no issues. Having performed the ABS diagnostic test with the previous module with no results ( ABS warning light remained on, no flashing, no flashing test light) I have since received a replacement module with same part and calibration numbers....and same results when performing the ABS diag - constant on ABS light with no flashing

please advise...
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
23,363 Posts
Yo b,
Amber ABS Warning Lamp On, No Code;
Worn or damaged ignition switch. See Note #1 below
Open ignition feed circuit to anti-lock brake electronic control module.
Low battery voltage (less than 8V).
Blown ignition fuse.
Open system ground, etc.

Note;
#1 Test the ignition key cylinder mechanical operation by rotating the ignition switch lock cylinder through all positions of the ignition switch. The movement should feel smooth with no sticking or binding. The ignition key should return from the START position back to the ON position without assistance (spring return). If sticking or binding is encountered, check for the following:
burrs on the ignition switch lock cylinder
binding ignition switch lock cylinder
shroud rubbing against ignition switch lock cylinder
burrs or foreign material around the rack-and-pinion actuator in the housing of the ignition switch lock cylinder
insufficient lube on actuator
binding ignition switch

Will try to find the pin-point test if you want it. Can you troubleshoot electrical circuits?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
23,363 Posts
Yo,
Open system ground,
G100 is @ LH front of engine compartment on upper radiator support &
G101 is @ ront of engine compartment, front of fender apron (D1) - RH = Passenger side mine has 2 small black wires between starter relay & headlight.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
I know for a fact that the ignition lock cylinder circuit assembly is definitely worn....when the key is removed the chime will still go off thinking the key is still in, a little flick of the ignition lock cylinder upward opens the circuit and the chime goes off..

But to clarify, in the beginning I had the standard issue flashing OD, no speedomoter, and ABS light on. Ran the ABS diag with the original module and the ABS light simply remained on - the same now with this replacement module.

My thinking had been that the ABS light remaind on as the ABS module itself was fried and unable to have the diagnostic performed. Is this correct?

Thank you for the response
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
23,363 Posts
Yo,
I am ASSUMING, the original module had fried microprocessors and now the ignition key cylinder is causing current situation, based on no codes.
Try replacing the key cylinder;

Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder, Functional, replacement in a 96
NOTE: The following procedure applies to vehicles that have
functional lock cylinders and keys.

Or,
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder, Lock Cylinder Non-Functional Removal;
NOTE: The following procedure applies to vehicles in which the ignition lock is inoperative and the lock cylinder cannot be rotated due to a lost or broken key, unknown key number, or a cap that has been damaged or broken to the extent that the lock cylinder cannot be rotated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
I still need to to that i wasnt sure the number to set it to with my 35 bf a/t ....and now the speedo is jumping after 15 mph screwing up shifting points again it runs but not great lol idk where to check well second ..i checked the jumpers and they seem ok when i originally replaced the vss i bought a new connector for the plug. And didnt soder* them but twisted them good and taped them up pretty good it was fine for a while and a 1500 mile trip to the mountians ..and a little mud messed shit up lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Im thinking it is .. and dreading its not the rear diff ...but if its driving fine .little thud but when cold it takes at least 1500 to 2000 rpms to get it moving at all then seems like it slips a little then warms up and runs fine now the speedos jumpin after 15 ....i think im going to get under it and pull all the debris and mud off and pull the vss and check the see what going on...im going to check the trans fluid also
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
Top