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Discussion Starter #1
Ok lets say just for kicks, I have a full size Bronco, camburg C/T front suspension with coilovers and fiberglass fenders and full interior cage.
What is the most basic class that a fullsize bronco would be able to race in? Are there any California local cross country races? With all the classes, 3, 9, so forth, I dont know where to start for a small time guy who wants to go race.
 

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Class 3 is about as basic as you can get. The rules are very limiting. It's short wheelbase 4x4, so the Bronco is perfect for it. Class 9 is for buggies. Your best bet is to go to a few races to get an idea of what you want to race. None of it is cheap; however, stick to sportsman if you really want to keep it bare bones. It's a run what you brung class, aside from all the usual safety requirements. Is your cage 2"?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
2" ?? should it be? Most of the guys I currently run with (strictly rock crawling) are doing 1-3/4" .120 wall DOM. Does it need to be 2" .120 or maybe 2" .095 DOM???????
 

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I believe the rules for BITD and SCORE state 2" .120 wall DOM or better.For the heavier class of trucks..Has alot to do with your truck/suv,s weight.Im sure Brian (yikes)knows more about the rules then me though.And I believe thats the case for sportsman class as well.Thats where I would start out.Also look on class3racing.com website. Good luck and have fun.If you need some tips on prepping and how to setup your rig for a race let me know.Or others on here, Ive picked up some neat tricks and good ideas for prepping so you can make it to the finish line. over the last two years helping prep a Pro-truck. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
soooo, assuming 4-5K for a good condition 92-96 bronco with a 5.0 and an automatic, how much would it take bare bones to get it class 3 or 1450 legal. (I started reading the class 3 rulebook I swear)

cage------------------------------------ 2000
camburg front and rear suspension-- 3500
re-gear--------------------------------- 750
35" General Grabber desert tires---- 1100
fuel cell-------------------------------- ???
helmet and race suit and fire system- 1200

So about 15K ready to go have fun?



bare bones keep in mind ???????
 

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You may want to rethink the newer bronco idea.The only reason I see for a newer one is for Mass-Air and roller cam.But if your going to be racing it ditch that for a good carb.So might as well find a straight older bronco with a good 5.8,C-6,9-inch combo.The 8.8 needs more mods for racing and C-clip eliminator kit too.Dont need a OD E-4OD for racing.And you should be able to save 1 to 2 grand on upfront cost to put towards cage etc.And the 5.0 doesnt have as much Torque for pulling the 35" rubber.I know someone with a 347 stroker and he wishes he had went to a 393 or 408 for the torque.You can always change the front end later for the 92 newer look down the road.As a racer you will be gutting the interior anyways.I originally bought my 84 for 600 bucks.It had a good rebuilt C-6 and 9-inch and I just put a newer 351 roller motor in it and built from there.
 

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soooo, assuming 4-5K for a good condition 92-96 bronco with a 5.0 and an automatic, how much would it take bare bones to get it class 3 or 1450 legal. (I started reading the class 3 rulebook I swear)

cage------------------------------------ 2000
camburg front and rear suspension-- 3500
re-gear--------------------------------- 750
35" General Grabber desert tires---- 1100
fuel cell-------------------------------- ???
helmet and race suit and fire system- 1200

So about 15K ready to go have fun? bare bones keep in mind ???????
I agree with Yogi about buying a older Bronco with 351/C6/9" it will save you money abe a better platform to build a racer on.

First, I doubt that you will get someone to build you a race quality cage for $2000. Most run at least $3500. for the cab only and more if you want to incorporate an engine cage and shock mounts into the cage structure (which you really should do).

Camburg front and rear suspension? $3500? Assuming you are not going to go coilover and that you are going to stay stock width, you would still be looking at more than $3500. The shock package alone is nearly that much and it definitely does not include spring hanger re-reinforcement, shock mounts, bump stops or any other fab work.

The parts alone to re-gear cost $750, what about a spool for the rear?

General race tires $1100. that buys 4. What if you get a flat 10 miles in to your first race? You need to double that amount.

Fuel cell: if you use a standard rectangle cell and live with just 32 gallon capacity you can get that for $600. but don't forget about fuel lines, filler assembly, fuel pump, fuel filter etc.

You can get a helmet suit and some fire protection for $1200. but you will have to make some choices and go cheap.

Now a few things you have not mentioned: Race seats, seat belts, Race radio and antenna, intercom, GPS, Fresh Air system, Safety lights, Driving lights, Wheels, Bump stops, battery hold downs, grade 8 nuts and bolts, any sheet metal work, gauges, trans cooler, some spare parts plus tons of fab work such as reinforcing the axle and beams.

Going bare bones is fine but you have to address a thousand little things to make the truck last. Being broke down a few miles into your first race sucks.

I am not trying to discourage you in any way, I just wanted to point out that there is much to consider and a lot of little things to spend money on.
 

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Dont quote me but I think 87 or 88 for the AOD and 8.8 . The front end style I believe prior to the 92 newer nose.Im assuming your in Cali. but a good friend of mine here in Oregon builds some nice cages,engine cages,and rearend housings for very reasonable prices.He did most of my cage with my help and has done tons of broncos.He also builds his own radius arms.Which I have a set of on mine.You might look at Solo Motorsports stuff though.I think they have a fairly easy to install coilover/engine cage ready to go. http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=129613 Look at post #13 on this thread this would be a good example of how to setup a race bronco for fairly reasonably priced.Hes running 3"Dia. 14" travel kings up front,2 1/2" 16" travel bypasses out back.2 1/2" wide deaver packs,king bumps,393w trussed 9", C-6.
 

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Coming from the road racing side of the world, the quickest and most economical path is to always buy someone else's race build. I'd go and look at race-dezert.com's classifieds and either buy one of the Broncos that are prepped and ready to go or something similar. I think there's a really nice bronco that looks ready to run, asking $18k or so:

http://www.race-dezert.com/cgi-bin/trader/atl.cgi?ct=14&md=second&id=5558
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I guess I'm kind of torn. I want to get out there and compete on an amateur level on some short course stuff, but I would kind of like to keep it semi street legal ( no shock tubes coming up through the bed) That blue one for sale is exactly what I want to build though. I'm also cool with the look of the older body style. It even has the new General Grabbers which I like.

So after reading some of the FAQ's, it would seem that 1981 is a bad year, but 83-86 should have the 351-C6-9" combo?
 

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So after reading some of the FAQ's, it would seem that 1981 is a bad year, but 83-86 should have the 351-C6-9" combo?
The 9" ended in '84, soif you want a factory 351W/C6/9" you have to buy a 82,83 or 84.

The 351 in 80 & 81 is a 351M and the trans bellousing is different (it is the same as a BBF) so if you use a 80 or 81 buy one with a 302 (a 351 can be swapped in later). The 80& 81 had frames that are different ( referred to as the swiss cheese frame) they are not as strong in stock form but irrelivant if you are going to cage the truck.

Give up any notion of having a street driven race truck, it can't work.
 

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I think that one you put a link up for Sy on R. Dezert wouldnt be race legal at most events with the 1.75" cage.
 

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The 9" ended in '84, soif you want a factory 351W/C6/9" you have to buy a 82,83 or 84.
Not true. I had an 86 that came with the 9", c6 and 351w. That is the motor and rear end I am about to throw in my '74 supercab.
From what I have seen the 8.8 started coming in as early as 84/85 and the last 9" went in around 87 if I remember right.

Just take a look at what you plan on buying - it's really that simple. Don't pass up 85's and 86's because you think they won't have a 9" though.
 

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There you go. Just another reason to really look at what you will buy instead of just buying a certain yeat THINKING that will make it have a 9", etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I've swapped plenty of rear axles though, so that wouldn't be much of a deal breaker. Junk yard 9" axles are very easy to come by. What do you guys think about some of the heavier duty axles like the D60, 10.25, or 14 bolt? Are
they too heavy for "go fast"?

I may have to abandon the idea of competing since the street legal aspect is mildly important to me.

Also, do I have to get a certain number of posts here before I can see the classifieds
 

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Yes - swapping an axles is easy if you know what you are doing. If you can get the "right" bronco for cheap enough it may be worth it even if it has the 8.8. Keep in mind you might need driveshaft and other mods, but if this thing is going to be as built as you are thinking that'll come anyways.

As for d60, sterling, etc. WAY too heavy for what I want. Especiall when the strenght can be had from one of the new fabricated housings from ruffStuff, Currie, GMR and MANY, MANY others.


75 posts for the classifieds. Not a rule many of us understand - but they have their reasons. I guess they don't want people coming here just to buy and sell parts...
 
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