I use a nice long brass drift to pound out the studs to avoid mushrooming the ends of the studs. Makes it a little easier too. More accurate than just using a hammer.
Agreed. This would be true if your using a smaller hammer (2lbs or less). But the brutal force of the 4lb'er, knocks them out fast with very few strokes. None of my studs showed any mushrooming, and this wasn't the first time I've done this, nor the second time to these studs.I use a nice long brass drift to pound out the studs to avoid mushrooming the ends of the studs. Makes it a little easier too. More accurate than just using a hammer.
Agreed. This works too, and most people won't have that socket mentioned above as it is for a 3/4 drive ratchet. But I love using that socket mentioned above. Fits perfectly and is a lot faster as its only a one piece tool, not several (stacked washers)Instead of using another socket to get the studs back in I just used a stack of washers under the lug nut.
Some people don't have the luxury of air tools. I tried to impact the studs back in, but they just wouldn't seat good, and it caused a lot of noise. So I opted to do it as listed above.I myself air hammer the bottom of the studs to seat them. Probably not the correct way, but its never failed. And its way quicker then the lug nut trick.
On a side not i also use an old lug nut, thread it on part way then air hammer the old studs out too...
My first time I took the tone ring off, I broke it.......using a puller. Ended up busting teeth off of it. Not saying someone else will or won't, but it happened to me.an old lug nut on the stud would help make sure you don't damage the stud. not all studs have the little "no thread" at the end, mine don't. Also that toner, that's pretty iffy with using the stud to pop it off. That's a cast piece and it's pretty easy to break one of the little toners off, ask me how I know. And the darn thing used to be like $40, now I'm not sure Ford even stocks them anymore. A puller is a safer way.
You do not need to change anything out. If the bearings and races are good, the only thing you will end up removing is just the outer bearing (mine usually falls out) so make sure to catch it. Other than that, everything in the hub (seals, bearings, races) can stay in.Thanks Sackman!, I assume I would need inner bearing seals with those new rotors right....? Anything else that for sure needs to get changes on these rotors?
There is a thickness difference/ridge on the hub where the tone ring will sit flush against. You should be able to see it in this picture.How will you know when the tone ring is fully/properly seated/set?