How is the connection made to the schrader valve?
The cam can not be 180 out from the crank. Because the crank spins twice for each revolution of the cam. Therefore that's not the issue. When the crank spins one revolution, then the cam is 180 from TDC of cylinder 1. Therefore it will now be TDC from Cylinder 6. But you spin it again 180 and it's back to 0. Now the cam can be anywhere between 1 and 179 but not 180.sackman9975 Thanks for writing this up. I used this as a guide last night while "trying" to time my 96 5.8l. Yes i said trying, this brought back memories of doing the same to my old one I sold about 5 years ago. Well this worked great for getting everything setup but still something's amiss with my current truck. Got it timed got it running a hell of a lot better than it was when I got it last week. Problem is the only way I was able to get it to run at all was to turn the rotor 180 from what it should be everything else is perfect.
96 5.8l 240,xxx miles just put new iac, coil, wires, cap, rotor button, clean air filter, maf cleaned, stripped throttle body and clean that too. I know some of this has nothing to do with the 180 out issue but just trying to get everything right on the truck. Timed dead on to 10 btc and I'm stumped. I have no idea if this thing has cams or anything else on it as of yet. Anyone got ideas on why it'd be 180 out on the rotor?
I do have a new balance, tps, crank sensor and pcv valve arriving later today but again those shouldn't have any impact on the rotor being out 180. Truck still surges hear and there and still hunts for a good idle speed with or without the spout removed. Does smoke a little white out the exhaust which I'll deal with this weekend. I know lots of info but better more than not enough. Oh I should add the only thing that comes to mind as to why it'd be 180 out is some dumb ass managed to set the cams with the crank 180 out at some point, yes I've seen this done on 5.0 that I've rebuilt. Still cant figure out how they manage it but they do. I say this as mechanically that's the only thing that makes sense to me unless I've been out of the game so long I'm missing something entirely. Figure I should also add i have plenty of experience with rebuilding engines especially 5.0 and 5.8 blocks but been a while since I have. In addition I did time based of the proper hash marks and numbers on the damper not the notch cut in it i remember enough to know that.
Could this be because of this:Pulled the dizzy because when setting the timing noticed the rotor button was pointing the wrong way at tdc.
:scratchheWhen the crank spins one revolution, then the cam is 180 from TDC of cylinder 1. Therefore it will now be TDC from Cylinder 6.
ok, went trough all steps twice to be sure I did it correctly. I'm convinced I have a different issue so I'm starting another thread.Great write up! I'm glad I found this lol. Last night I went to retard my timing for emissions test. When I went to loosen the distributor bolt, it broke free and the the distributor turned. I set the bolt snug enough for me to be able to turn the distributor, went to start and now it won't start for me adjust the timing. Because it wouldn't start I checked and tripled checked everything to make sure I didn't break or remove anything around the distributor and didn't find anything.
Wondering if I should just start from zero and pull the distributor and reset it. Haven't pulled it so I'm hoping I can do something to get it running enough to adjust the timing correctly. Should I start from zero or is there a point I can get to in order to get it running? I'm thinking just go to step 9, if doesn't start, go to steps 7 and 8? 88 XLT 5.0.