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How is the connection made to the schrader valve?

Thanks
 

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the fuel pressure gauge has a hose on it with an attachment similar to what you'd use fill up your tire..you screw it down onto the valve and that's it..they come with instructions..pretty hard to fawk it up..
 

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Okay, I'm familiar with the tire filling attachments.

What pressure am I looking for, low end and high end?

Thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Okay, I'm familiar with the tire filling attachments.

What pressure am I looking for, low end and high end?

Thank you
38-42psi Key on engine off
32 or higher engine running and rises when rev'ed
 

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I will check the readings to see if they fall in those ranges.

Thanks
 

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Picked up a fuel pressure gauge today but the fittings were to big for the schrader valve.

I 'll have to return it to Harbour Freight and check out Napa.

It was disappointing.
 

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My key on motor off is 35 LB.

Engine running is 28 lbs.
 

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Re-checked:

Key On Eng. Off 35 lbs.

Motor running 30 to 38 lbs. (had a leak in my hose connection)
 

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sackman9975 Thanks for writing this up. I used this as a guide last night while "trying" to time my 96 5.8l. Yes i said trying, this brought back memories of doing the same to my old one I sold about 5 years ago. Well this worked great for getting everything setup but still something's amiss with my current truck. Got it timed got it running a hell of a lot better than it was when I got it last week. Problem is the only way I was able to get it to run at all was to turn the rotor 180 from what it should be everything else is perfect.

96 5.8l 240,xxx miles just put new iac, coil, wires, cap, rotor button, clean air filter, maf cleaned, stripped throttle body and clean that too. I know some of this has nothing to do with the 180 out issue but just trying to get everything right on the truck. Timed dead on to 10 btc and I'm stumped. I have no idea if this thing has cams or anything else on it as of yet. Anyone got ideas on why it'd be 180 out on the rotor?

I do have a new balance, tps, crank sensor and pcv valve arriving later today but again those shouldn't have any impact on the rotor being out 180. Truck still surges hear and there and still hunts for a good idle speed with or without the spout removed. Does smoke a little white out the exhaust which I'll deal with this weekend. I know lots of info but better more than not enough. Oh I should add the only thing that comes to mind as to why it'd be 180 out is some dumb ass managed to set the cams with the crank 180 out at some point, yes I've seen this done on 5.0 that I've rebuilt. Still cant figure out how they manage it but they do. I say this as mechanically that's the only thing that makes sense to me unless I've been out of the game so long I'm missing something entirely. Figure I should also add i have plenty of experience with rebuilding engines especially 5.0 and 5.8 blocks but been a while since I have. In addition I did time based of the proper hash marks and numbers on the damper not the notch cut in it i remember enough to know that.
 

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so you pulled the dizzy, set the #1 cylinder to TDC, restabbed the dizzy and you still have to turn it 180 degrees to get it to run??

something doesn't sound right...if you had it on TDC and stabbed the dizzy pointing at #1 cylinder you shouldn't have a problem..
 

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Discussion Starter #53
sackman9975 Thanks for writing this up. I used this as a guide last night while "trying" to time my 96 5.8l. Yes i said trying, this brought back memories of doing the same to my old one I sold about 5 years ago. Well this worked great for getting everything setup but still something's amiss with my current truck. Got it timed got it running a hell of a lot better than it was when I got it last week. Problem is the only way I was able to get it to run at all was to turn the rotor 180 from what it should be everything else is perfect.

96 5.8l 240,xxx miles just put new iac, coil, wires, cap, rotor button, clean air filter, maf cleaned, stripped throttle body and clean that too. I know some of this has nothing to do with the 180 out issue but just trying to get everything right on the truck. Timed dead on to 10 btc and I'm stumped. I have no idea if this thing has cams or anything else on it as of yet. Anyone got ideas on why it'd be 180 out on the rotor?

I do have a new balance, tps, crank sensor and pcv valve arriving later today but again those shouldn't have any impact on the rotor being out 180. Truck still surges hear and there and still hunts for a good idle speed with or without the spout removed. Does smoke a little white out the exhaust which I'll deal with this weekend. I know lots of info but better more than not enough. Oh I should add the only thing that comes to mind as to why it'd be 180 out is some dumb ass managed to set the cams with the crank 180 out at some point, yes I've seen this done on 5.0 that I've rebuilt. Still cant figure out how they manage it but they do. I say this as mechanically that's the only thing that makes sense to me unless I've been out of the game so long I'm missing something entirely. Figure I should also add i have plenty of experience with rebuilding engines especially 5.0 and 5.8 blocks but been a while since I have. In addition I did time based of the proper hash marks and numbers on the damper not the notch cut in it i remember enough to know that.
The cam can not be 180 out from the crank. Because the crank spins twice for each revolution of the cam. Therefore that's not the issue. When the crank spins one revolution, then the cam is 180 from TDC of cylinder 1. Therefore it will now be TDC from Cylinder 6. But you spin it again 180 and it's back to 0. Now the cam can be anywhere between 1 and 179 but not 180.

Let's back up......WHY did you pull the distributor???
 

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Pulled the dizzy because when setting the timing noticed the rotor button was pointing the wrong way at tdc. when i got the truck last week the timing was so bad and was hard to start. now its still has a little bit of a hard start then once catches it has periodically hunt and surging idle. I'm still waiting on my tps and crank sensors figuring the crank sensor could still be part of the issue as haven't had a chance to pull it and test with teh meter. However did test tps and iac both bad, iac has been replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Pulled the dizzy because when setting the timing noticed the rotor button was pointing the wrong way at tdc.
Could this be because of this:

When the crank spins one revolution, then the cam is 180 from TDC of cylinder 1. Therefore it will now be TDC from Cylinder 6.
:scratchhe

If the truck was running before you pulled the distributor, but poorly, then chances are it was close to being in time. Could of been bad wires or something. If the distributor WAS 180 off, it wouldn't of ran.

To me it sounds like your issue was something other than the timing to begin with, but now it's magnified due to the distributor being pulled.
 

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Well I'm still no closer to finding why its out what appears a 180 degrees yet it does run even after putting dizzy back in same position as when I first found it. I've got it timed to dead on 10 degrees btc, every time I hit it with the timing light it shows this on the timing marks. So for now I'm not going to stress about it. Just getting to knocking out all the other sensors and vacuum lines. I've got a feeling you're correct about cam being 180 out or so. I've seen people do so on 5.0 blocks in mustangs I've rebuilt for guys. Not sure how they mess that up but they do. Just usually the distributor ends up not lined up in the general manner as expected which is how some of these guys get stumped. Hell it could be some wacky rebuild on the distributor as well. I'll end up tearing it all down this winter anyway, so I should end up seeing the trouble then. Once i discover how/why I'll update again appreciate the post was a great help.
 

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Discussion Starter #57
May I suggest you check your firing order?

If the engine has been gone through and someone else put a different cam into it, it could have a different firing order.

The two orders are as follows:
13726548
15426378

Also, start a thread in the Noobie Tech area. This way we can keep your issues together and you may get more help. Make sure you list this thread as a reference of what you've done. :thumbup
 

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Great write up! I'm glad I found this lol. Last night I went to retard my timing for emissions test. When I went to loosen the distributor bolt, it broke free and the the distributor turned. I set the bolt snug enough for me to be able to turn the distributor, went to start and now it won't start for me adjust the timing. Because it wouldn't start I checked and tripled checked everything to make sure I didn't break or remove anything around the distributor and didn't find anything.

Wondering if I should just start from zero and pull the distributor and reset it. Haven't pulled it so I'm hoping I can do something to get it running enough to adjust the timing correctly. Should I start from zero or is there a point I can get to in order to get it running? I'm thinking just go to step 9, if doesn't start, go to steps 7 and 8? 88 XLT 5.0.
 

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Great write up! I'm glad I found this lol. Last night I went to retard my timing for emissions test. When I went to loosen the distributor bolt, it broke free and the the distributor turned. I set the bolt snug enough for me to be able to turn the distributor, went to start and now it won't start for me adjust the timing. Because it wouldn't start I checked and tripled checked everything to make sure I didn't break or remove anything around the distributor and didn't find anything.

Wondering if I should just start from zero and pull the distributor and reset it. Haven't pulled it so I'm hoping I can do something to get it running enough to adjust the timing correctly. Should I start from zero or is there a point I can get to in order to get it running? I'm thinking just go to step 9, if doesn't start, go to steps 7 and 8? 88 XLT 5.0.
ok, went trough all steps twice to be sure I did it correctly. I'm convinced I have a different issue so I'm starting another thread.
 
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