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Well, yes this is the SAS section but if you swapping in a front axle you better at least be replacing the U-joints with new Spicer ones.

Check my draft page, and let me know if I'm missing anything. Thanks.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/ujointremoval.htm
(yeah, I'll get the picture update soon)

Using a press has led to severl people having axle shafts look like this, infact this pic is from a friend of mine..
 

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I haven't been able to get mine off yet. Was going to take it to my girlfriends father's shop and see how they do it. But I'd imagine its a press of some sort. Your web page will be extremely useful, but it lacks pictures.
I have a rusty one I'll photo for you as we take it apart. Maybe some others will do the same.
Great page as always Mr. N
 

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Hammer(rock)-socket works, I've done it on trails, never in the garage. I soak them in WD or PB Blaster for as long as possible beforehand. My younger brother even did one in a vice with a socket and two pieces of flatstock. It can be done many ways, but you do have to realize that the axle yoke is soft enough to bend.
 

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Done it several ways. Hammer/socket, Harbor Freight U-Joint press and 12 and 50 ton press.

Hammer/Socket is great on the trail, quick but you better have taken the joints off first so they are not rust-welded on. Or soak them with PBB/WD-40 etc.

HF U-joint press works great on the trail and in the shop as well. This is my prefference since it can easily knock a rust-welded cap out. But if you are not careful you can rip the top off a cap and then you are in a pickle. It is a heck of a tool for $19.95.

12 and 50 ton press's are great but have some drawbacks. Holding the shaft in place while putting in a socket to press the cap out is kind of a PITA. But it works.

dc
 

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Dangling_Dave said:
Done it several ways. Hammer/socket, Harbor Freight U-Joint press and 12 and 50 ton press.

Hammer/Socket is great on the trail, quick but you better have taken the joints off first so they are not rust-welded on. Or soak them with PBB/WD-40 etc.

HF U-joint press works great on the trail and in the shop as well. This is my prefference since it can easily knock a rust-welded cap out. But if you are not careful you can rip the top off a cap and then you are in a pickle. It is a heck of a tool for $19.95.

12 and 50 ton press's are great but have some drawbacks. Holding the shaft in place while putting in a socket to press the cap out is kind of a PITA. But it works.

dc

yes DC. One thing no one has mentioned about the sledge/socket. even just a little PB and it works great. Neither of these other methods create that huge smack/vibration which tends to break any hold. why it works so well. I also use both the vise and HF tool, but you have to be careful. It can get cocked and start "peeling" the inside of the yoke. It also makes this god aweful bang when it releases (same with balljoints). I go sledge/socket before anything. You do have to hit the socket square, and try go "around" the socket if you feel any sticking to keep it on track.
 
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